Do I need Big Wheel or not for under $1K + What bike to buy?

[oldhack]

Hi all,
I am brand new to this forum but have been riding bikes on and off for 20+yrs.
My last bike was a KTM525 so the whole mini thing is a polar opposite for me.
Been out of the game for 2yrs and lookin 2 get back in cheaply and to have a ball doing it so this looks like the place to go!
I have a few questions due to my total lack of pitbike knowledge (I did try a few searches b4 posting sp please be patient with me)

I want a bike for hacking around the farm paddocks but being ex motox I won't be able to help myself and without a doubt it's going to get jumped.

I want as much reliable power as possible without having to do many mods (I am able to do mech tinkering myself but won't have much coin for fast parts etc)

I weigh 80kg and stand a massive (ha ha) 170cms or 5ft 10 tall.

My skill level is fairly high. Although I have not really ridden for 2 yrs.

I don't want a pussy bike that will bore me after 5 mins and the ability to do mods over time for better performance would be favorable but not critical.

I would love to hear from anyone who has any thoughts on what bike may suit my application?

Also what are good BANG FOR YOUR BUCK first mods people would suggest?

I have read that the Atomik Nitrous 160 has good power but the ignitions need replacing with IRK?

Would I at my massive height need a big wheel version or not? I have no idea in this respect.

My buget would be $1K total inc freight to regional W.A (Atomik quote $245 for this) So what bike? What mods? and Big wheel or std?

Any info will be very very much appreciated.
Thanks all,
oldhack

 

[DvDRip]

if you INSIST on a sub !k budget then the atomik nitrous 160 is the only possible solution for you. end of story, you just won't find anything better in that price range unless you score an awsome second hand deal which is very risky. $650 not including shipping, that's less than the motors value alone. the bike is very basic tho and will need a fair bit of coin thrown at it before you can do any decent jumping. whoever told the ignition needs to be replaced with an IRK doesn't have a ****en clue, an ORK would be more than worth it but completely unnecessary.

But with your experience and age you really need to up that budget and get a bike that's built for the job at hand, you're looking at $2500 for a pitster x4r, you won't regret it.

 

[Peter1230]

woo man for 1K you aint gonna get the best bike ever thats for sure.

you can only have 2- CHEAP FAST RELIABLE

I know you said that u want a max of 1K but DHZ are selling there 160's with the new zongshen engine for 1400 give or take.. I would go for that..

go a bit longer without a bike and buy something decent.
You will thank yourself in the long run.
Atomik nitrous will get the job done, the engine will be fine but the actual bike will shit it self after a while with a guy like u on it.

I am 6ft 2 and i ride my DHZ (14" front 12 Rear) no worries. i weight 70kg..

so fairly similar to you.

 

[DvDRip]

dhz 160 is no more capable than the nitrous, sure a lil bit better but it ain't gonna like an experienced MX'r thrashing it about.
either go cheap n nasty superfast atomik which is good for a bit of fun or go quality pitster which is built for what you're gonna do to it

 

[Peter1230]

yeh i agree with u dvd just saying i think the dhz is still a better bike and for the money cant "really" go wrong.

 

[pbk]

i will admit though today i went riding and i saw some very avergae looking pitbike but they were putting out what the rider dished out

so i think it trully comes down to maintenance the cheaper you go the higher maintenance it is because parts a are weaker

i have an x4r and still have not looked back its just a solid pitbike and for the money you cant get any better, they ride smooth as the suspenion is almost dialled from out of the box
so if you are going to race i WOULDNT settle for anything lower than a pitster pro x4r

and pete i wouldnt exactly say you have an everyday dhz we only have seen 2

 

[Peter1230]

ah yeh thats true to..
hopefully its worth millons hahahhaha

 

[sam93]

If you want bang for your buck i have to agree with Dvdrip the nitrous 160 is fast and cheap but at the cost of that reliability and maintenance is a different storey and the suspension etc isnt what you would call competion ready. But if it is going to be under a grand the nitrous is the way to go. it has a decent platform to work off if you looking at a cheap build, also like what Dvdrip said the engine alone on the nitrous is worth the price of the whole bike. You get what you pay for that all if comes down to in the end. I have learnt my lesson with cheap ass pit bikes and still am lol. its not worth it mate!

 

[sean01]

going by what you have said in your first post, you want/need a pitster pro lxr with a 26mm oko and a v2 head.. hahaha over 4k worth of bike..

for under a G your not going to get much, but will agree with DVDrip 200% that the best youll get is a nitrous 160.
but yeah it will need some coin thrown at it to get it up to mx track standards..
forks, rear shock, carby, tyres, rim lock, decent chain just to name a few..

good luck mate

 

[oldhack]

Hi all,
Wow!, Thanks to everyone for your thoughts. You have answered many of my questions and then some.
Due to the minister for finance and rec (wife) having an incredibly tight grip on my wallet unfortunately 1K is about all I will be able to prise from her grasp. So:
-It looks like the Atomik Nitrous 160 will be for me.
-I don't need big wheels.
-I wish I had more money for a Pitster etc etc but that aint gonna happen!

If I go out and buy the Nitrous I should get it for around $600 off E-bay than add $245 for freight leaves me $155 to splash out! Woo hoo! Where to start?? Seriously though, As I mentioned in my first post I am pretty capable with the spanners and if I can't do it I have mates who can so:
-What am I best to spend the extra cash on that will give me a bit more BANG for my buck?
-What other no cost mods (spin those spanners) can I do when I set it up that will be of benefit to me?
-I assume that pitbikes will benefit from proper carb jetting and needle settings so can anyone point me in the right direction here?
Ok im going to stop now, Thanks to everone who has given me info so far and cheers in advance for any extra info anyone can give me.
oldhack

 

[pbk]

well 155 aint gonna get youvery far for parts but would have to say bars, grips and levers would probly be best then when you get more $$$ go for suspension upgrades

if i were you i would go through your shed looking for shit to seel a whack it on ebay thats what i always do when i need some $$$

 

[mattbombers]

yep i agree with PBK's last post make some extra cash of some junk you dont need that throw it as hard as you can at the nitrous
good luck!
ps. oh and i think most of us have been in ur position at 1 time , not knowing where to go

 

[sean01]

nah, id be getting a DID or RK chain bottle of castol activ 4t oil (full mineral) then get bars and grips. (should be to buy local)
or
just get and 26mm oko carb kit DHZ Mini Moto

 

[pbk]

you dont need a DID or RK i have always used a KMC and they stretch but do come to a point where thy stop and i have never snapped a chain not once so i reckon chain is not a necessity upgrade but my opinion

 

[sean01]

well you have just been lucky,,
i dont know how many bikes iv seen because the kmc chains either snap or stretch and wipe out the stator cover and pick up..

 

[mattbombers]

yeh its just annoying to move ur wheel back every hour when its still stretching haha

 

[oldhack]

Thanks, pitbikekid,mattbombers and sean01.
-I would hate to smash the stator cover and it would sh#t me having to adjust the chain constantly so I might throw my coin at that.
*pitbikekid: The specs for the Nitrous say that it comes with bi-fold levers and alloy bars. Are these crap quality or will they suffice for now? Did you think it came with steel bars (crap) and poor quality levers?
-Also when the time comes what suspension upgrades should I look at? I won't be taking it on a proper MX track in the near future but will build a jump sequence in the back yard (nothing huge)
- What tires are people running? I will burn through the stockies first.
-What are these ORK ignitions somebody mentioned earlier in this post?
- Looking around on E-bay and elsewhere on the net lots of goodies can be had for not much outlay (full exhausts for $300, CDI for $100) I think I may have some fun with that in the future. Where do most guys get their parts and what are some reputable brands and also what should I stay well away from?
Thanks guys, Your input is very helpfull.
oldhack

 

[sean01]

for tyres... most people are running Kenda Carlsbad or millville's
but theres plenty to choose from... innova's are another good tyre but the rear wears pretty quick due to being such a soft compound..
iv also heard of people running innova steer tyre and kenda for rear..

lifan ORK ignitions have a digital CDI box with an awesome ignition and start curve. most of the standard 160's come with the YX version of the ORK which isnt any better than a standard curve but the magneto is a touch smaller so allows it to rev a little quicker.

the IRK is alot smaller and you loose alot of torque but it will rev up even quicker than the ORK, the only bonus to the IRK is the adjustable ignition pickup..

the standard YX ORK is plenty good enough tho and you can drill the pickup mounting holes out a little to retard the timing for easier kick starting..
to fit the lifan ORK to a yx theres a little machining needed to the lifan ORK stator plate..nothing serious but, it just needs 3 or so mm lathed off it..

yeah upgrades and goodies are everywhere for the yx engine, youll find alot of people actually buy out of the country for certain parts but also alot of people buy from ebay or DHZ

 

[mattbombers]

ok
the levers will be ok if you do some cheap mods like putting plumbers tape under where they clamp and dont tighten too much so if it drops they should twist.
il grab a link for some good free mods in a min

 

[Motovert Pro]

nah, id be getting a DID or RK chain bottle of castol activ 4t oil (full mineral) then get bars and grips. (should be to buy local)
or
just get and 26mm oko carb kit DHZ Mini Moto

I agree with sean,get rid of the shitty kmc chain straight away.Ive seen a kmc chain stretch to the point when it was held next to a new chain with the same amount of links it was actually 2 links longer,they are nasty.Also before you even start the bike drop the shipping oil out of it and replace it with a good quality full mineral oil.
Other than an oil change and a new chain i wouldnt go running in and changing anything just yet,wait til the bars bend before you replace them and loosen off the perches a little so the levers dont break when you have a get off.By making little mods before you go flogging it not only will you get to know the bike you will also get a good idea on whats cheap and nasty and is going to break and what is solid and will last a bit longer.