Dropping out of Gear !!

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THOR1978

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Hi Guys my names Matt i just bought a TDR 140cc Predator.It has a lifan 140cc so Far i have done approx 4 hrs riding and happy apart from this problem!!It drops out of gear mainy in 4th, it starts revving really hard till i knock it back up into gear, and i have to physically put it back into gear to keep going. I thought it was the oil so i changed from castrol activ4 to silkolene and it is still happening, Im noticing it mainly happends in 4th when i try to open her up a bit i get to a certain rev and it knocks it self out of gear, the clutch works fine through the gears and it idles fine, Im not very mechanically minded and this is my first bike.

Any help greatly appreciated!!

Cheers
Matt
 
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I have played around with the clutch a bit but it hasnt helped. Im really hesitent to put her in 4th as when it happends it revs really hard and goes no where, but i can pretty much pin point exactly what revs it happends at and i ease of the throttle a bit. but its bloody annoying.

i cant take her out now but i will look at the clutch again as soon as i get a chance,the chain i think is very tight, but i got told this will stretch or lossen over time could this be the problem???

Cheers
Matt
 
does it click back in if u let off the throttle?
 
Nope it just revs hard until i knock it back up into gear.Its like it hits N but its in top gear.

Cheers
Matt
 
alot of people have blamed similar things on bent gear selector forks

theres a few other similar problems

mine jumps out in 4th also...but when i back off it clicks back in and im off again
 
Send It Back

Gday mate. It can only be fixed if the case's are split motor out of bike. . It takes 7hours or so to do such a repair if you know what you are doing and have the right spares. I had to fix mine today bit it had broken 2nd gear, cause i had it gear to low for the track and was engine braking from third to 2nd to much, plus high horpower worked motor, lucky i had a spare. Becuase you just started riding it it really is a warranty issue. They should replace it. Good luck.
Ride on DD ride on.
 
Yeah ive been reading on here about bent selecter forks it looks like a job that is out of my capabilities , fingers crossed its not, im gonna play around with the clutch and other things i have in mind , the bike is still new i havent jumped on it or ride it on rough terrain just around a paddock, im not gonna be im pressed if its a bent selecter fork, i can say that much, if it is, the mob i got it of wont be getting a phone call i will be paying them a visit!!!

I will let you guys know how i go , very busy at work at the moment, so time will tell.

Cheers
Matt
 
Its me again just wanting to know any other things i can eliminate next time i take her out (hopefully this afternoon), thats causing this problem so far i will be looking at the clutch and chain tension??

Is there anything else that could possibly be causing this to happen??

Cheers
Matt
 
Yeah im thinking the chain may be to tight , there is no movement at all , and when i hit a high speed as in 4th and increase the revs, the bumpy surface may knock it out??
Am i talking shit or what :D Lol i think im hoping for a miracle as if it is bent selecter fork i will be flogging this motor off and dropping another 1 straight in i have been looking at motors today there is a few on the market.

Cheers
matt
 
epod said:
Gday mate. It can only be fixed if the case's are split motor out of bike. . It takes 7hours or so to do such a repair if you know what you are doing and have the right spares. I had to fix mine today bit it had broken 2nd gear, cause i had it gear to low for the track and was engine braking from third to 2nd to much, plus high horpower worked motor, lucky i had a spare. Becuase you just started riding it it really is a warranty issue. They should replace it. Good luck.
Ride on DD ride on.
Click to expand...

man you must be doing somthing wrong
it took me 3-1/2hrs to take my motor out of my bike disassemle engine, clean, replace both gear barrels and the selector re assemble the motor and put it back in my bike
i might be a freak motor builder guy or somthing and yep same donk as you

as for this bloke good luck with tdr brother hopefully they send ya a new donk but out of china i'd doubt it
now if you had of spent the coin warrenty would be easy
 
most likely its ur clutch not adjusted correctly
 
I hope so man now adjusting tthe clutch is that a matter of playing with the 2 nuts near the chrome bit which the cable connects to coming out of the top of the motor that moves forward and backwards when i apply the clutch and do i adjust the the screw and nut on the handle as well.

I know im a total knoB!!

Any info greatly appreciated
Matt
 
start off with the screw on the clutch lever/handle first. just wind it out a bit.

i dont think it would be your clutch, but i could be wrong!

where abouts does your clutch engage? like if your letting it out, is it almost all the way out before your bike starts moving or is it right up close to your handle bars?
if it engages once its most of the way out you can probably rule the clutch out.

as i said i dont think its the clutch because if it was the clutch it would be doing the same thing in every gear i would have assumed?
 
Hi guys im back just took her out around the block a few times ( about 15 min) and was adjusting the clutch several times , Now i have screwed the screw on the clutch lever on the bars in , it seems to have improved it doesnt seem to be dropping out of gear but what it does it sounds like it wants to drop out but it doesnt, Now is it a matter of finding the right adjustment on the clutch and presto fixed ?? I havent touched the 2 nuts and thread on the actual motor it self , is it worth adjusting these as well?So im starting to think it isnt a bent selecter fork. The noise is like a quiet thud, but it stays in gear, and unless i back of the throttle it does it of intervals about 2 - 3 seconds, but as i said it stays in gear. I would of liked to stay out longer but as i predicted, the coppers drove past about 3 min after garaged!!

Any info greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Matt
 
Hi all, Just brought a new Torque TDR alloy Pit Trail Thumpstar 150cc PX7 for our eldest son. Only been ridden for almost 4 hours when noticed that it was jumping up and down gears. Gear configaration 1 down 3 up. Have been using the best non synthetic oils and chain lubes. Looks like a great first bike other than this problem. My hubby isn't really machanically minded and brought this bike online and got it freighted from Melbourne to Semi rural Western Australia so you can see our frustration. It has a Zongshen motor and is oil cooled...Hoping that someone can give us some advise. Could it be that I need to adjust the clutch even though it feels fine. Hoping that its not the gear selector especially being brand new...The bike hasn't had any knocks and has been run in properly...Cheers thanks...
 
Hey

Just lettin ya know clutch tuned in been rappin her in the bush for 4 hrs had to stop blew the back tyre!! ALL s Good... Gotta luv these china bikes!!

Cheers
Matt
 
And back on that chain thing i rode a 10 year old yz250 with a chain which was not that tight the other week , which went like the power of piss!! i loosened mine just a bit it seemed to make a diff!! maybe i had to many beers.. not sure!!It had a good 2 inches movement. mine didnt budge half an inch..

Gotta luv these china bikes!!

Cheers Matt
 
With ANYTHING new , you have to give 'em a good run in first before jumping to conclusions ... The selector drum can be a bit tight in the cases at first then wear in and loosen up over time with use ...

As to clutch adjustment ... reducing the cable free play will make it engage later when the lever is right out ... and increasing the free play will make it grab earlier near the bars ... once again , a lot of cable freeplay = slop in the lever and early engagement ... minimal cable freeplay = tight feeling lever and late engagement ... It pays to practice adjusting the cable in and out until you get it programmed into your head ... You are always better off to screw the screw into the perch on the bars ... THEN adjust the clutch at the bottom ... wherever the adjustment is ... that way you'll have plenty of adjustability at the lever ... Some cables adjust at the cases or on a case mounted bracket ... and some adjust in the middle of the cable ... Lengthening the cable outer case by screwing the adjuster in the middle of it out reduces lever play and increases clutch pull (plate separation) and shortening it increases lever play and reduces clutch pull ...

As a note of caution though ... 1 down 3 up trannies were always notorious for jumping out of gear or missing shifts ... (At one point you could buy an SDG shift star fix kit) ... that's WHY most of the top brand bikes only run 4 up trannies ... In a nutshell ... It's best to steer clear of Chinese bikes OR engines with 1D3UP shift patterns ... And remember , these trannies have WIDE ratios ... so harsh unsynchronised throttling and clutching during shifting can easily damage the dog lugs or shift forks ... Each time you shift , get your foot away from the lever to let it find its own place ... When there is pressure on the lever the shift forks rub on the side of the shift fork grooves and that wears the forks thin over time ... Since the forks are the only thing holding certain gears in position , they start jumping out of gear if the forks are too thin OR bent ...

SDG questions - ThumperTalk

Buying a new pit bike, suggestions needed please - ThumperTalk

Sdg 107 - Planet Minis

Improved shift star for Lifan engines ...

Old shift star is on the left and the new shift star is on the
right .

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/subarubie/50 Parts/Picture528.jpg

Old star on top of the new one .

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/subarubie/50 Parts/Picture529.jpg

New shift star installed in a Lifan engine .

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w246/subarubie/50 Parts/Picture526.jpg
 
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