Finally, a linkage.. PSTO 125

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yeah i only really need a wheel less linkage frame for my 190, and i reckon i can score one for a lot cheaper than zwebx's bike if i wait. Your bike was worth every cent by the way, just didnt have the cash straight up. I like phil's idea for more air flow, make em 4/5mm in diameter zac, wont get much through that could hurt the cooler but at speed you would get a significant increase in air flow
 
the tank shrouds also help to pull air down and past the oil cooler
 
Yeah i was thinking of options for more cooling.. Might print out a page of dots and make something of it..

The flywheel's inner section came loose somehow the magnets seem to be on strong but anyway that touched the stator plate and made some marks, only the inner side (thats slightly prouder to the flywheel) so what i did was i superglued it back into place, (its role isnt really integral) and ran over it with my sanding roll on my dremel a couple times to increase the tolerances a bit..

Dont have any pictures, but built a stop for the brake pedal so it comes down a bit lower and just before the brake activates And ground the pedal down a little to help it all clear..

Removed the air box.. as much as i would like to use it.. its just not going to flow enough for me.. Pod for me..

Stiffend the rear spring up ALOT.. will certainly be going a 800lbs dnm when i can get it..

At the moment it seems to be either on the leaner side of life or the ritcher one.. runs like a dog 1-4k rpm but past that its pretty responsive and usable No air leaks just this ****ty carby.. Once again will wait till i can get a good one.. (pipe glows red pretty quick)

Will keep on prepping for this weekends break in at the farm :)
My bore could be better *the seal that is But i guess the new rings need to bed in

I also changed the mounting of the pipe a little so the header section isnt so stressed..

Next up i am going to suss out whats happening with the bash plate and maybe fiddle with the timing
 
yeah, i have seen 3 of the inner shields come off the flywheel with the Outer Rotors.
all they do is stop mud/water from getting in to the magnets, and anything metallic from sticking to the magnets behind it.
a few dabs of urethane work well too.

sounds lean with a red hot exhaust.

bash plate's for z engines are a different shape,
you might get away with cutting of the rhs bracket and making another to bolt onto the bash plate
 
Also i found a good way to tighten the rear shock without damaging it.. A nice peice of wood and a hammer :p
Needs to be hardwood to get it really tight but it doesn't mark it up much at all
Yeah the RHS mount is pretty far off.. Might just run it with one bolt in for now... i don't smash stuff anyway because i know if i hit the front of the plate im probably going to break some cases..

i am so pleased its all together i am very keen to go for a decent ride and get some well earned hours on it..

Im probably going to run a bead of gasket goop for the oil pump seal.. not sure what to do there.. I think its weaping/slight leak from after the 0-ring filter seal.. cant remember if it had a gasket on it before but the goop should do the trick..

It will be a while before i go to frankston i want to make sure its all spot on before i sign up for another years membership.. would like to do a vcm round if there is one coming up soon..
 
do you have the small o'ring (8mm o/d) fitted at the bottom left of the oil filter cover ?
 
Nah, how could have i missed that lol Do you know where i could get one? i must have lost it some time ago when the bike wasn't in the frame
 
i posted the size in Cordogs Z155 gearbox/shift drum issue thread a while ago.
iirc it was a 7.9 O/D 2.5mm thick O'ring ?
i'll check mine tomorrow and post up the size again.
they are pretty expensive though, one of the top left one's here- O'ring
 
Not sure if cordogs found the correct dia oil seal from bunnings assorted o-rings pack?
Cant do too many trips to the shops as i gotta get a lift lol (still working on the lovley french engineering faults)
my67xr said:
the o'ring has a 8mm o/d, 5mm i/d so 1.5mm diameter. probably get away with an 8mm od, 2mm thick one too ?


any car parts places around you, bearing shops etc
iirc, you can get a pack of assorted o'rings from bunnings plumbing section too for about $3 (temporary fix)

Kinetic Assorted Sizes O Ring Kit - 43 Pack I/N 4920305 | Bunnings Warehouse
Click to expand...
 
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i lost mine at some stage too, and used one from that pack.
 
Thanks craig, did the job :) I just had to push the o-ring in a little bit and it ended up being a perfect fit and no more leaking :)
also the bike runs much better (i guess the oil pressures a good thing :p)

+reps to you

Will post some pics soon when i get to it of my modified brake lever assembly and now the new o-ring :)
My garage was never complete without a oring kit i should have already had one just incase :)

EDIT:
[h=2]vBulletin Message[/h]You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to my67xr again.
 
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CNC Alloy De-comp Kit, Suits GPX YX 150 160 Engine, TB V2 Head
Why lookie here.. a cnc de-comp lever on sale..
I would like a auto de-comp but i dont think its worth $200 for a takey one.. Might just get this.. Would love a e-start too one day just for something different.. Maybe when i get the funds together for a 67mm kit..
I really should be spending the money on a carby but stuff it :p it can wait.
 
Yeah saw that on ebay today, cheap. Much better then decomp cam or button.
 
okay heres a update on the bike.. pics to follow once i make everything nice..
Cdi... mines a big box... not many places to mount them on the psto/lxr frame.. Wirings too short to bolt it on to where the airbox used to sit.. Too big to sit under the tank..
I have found the perfect spot for it :) really clean look imo..

Went ahead and started to locktite everything so i took off the stator and all that again (well undid it) and used some low strength loctite (blue stuff not as strong as red want it to be serviceable) And re-checked all my rocker retainer bolts and cam bolts.. the rocker bolts dont feel the best (in thread) want to helicoil with some solid helicoils when possible along with most other threads i just hate the feel of them.. wouldn't mind some nicer bolts throughout...

Thinking of going a oko 28 if i can soon will see if my local shop has them (need to take back the pipe that didnt fit anyways)

also took your advice phill.. Gear lever is quite a bit higher now and loctited :)

Took her for some laps of the back yard.. that top end punch is to die for.. cant wait till i can get a 67mm in the thing.. i hope my trans can too :p Really need to sort out a carby though before i go riding at a track.

Havnt had one kickback yet and have had some decently easy startings.. (considering the jetting is off)
 
I know what you mean about nicer bolts, it got the better of me and I just got allen head bolts for the entire engine. Yeah those rocker retaining bolts aren't the best I reckon too, next time mines apart I will change them to cap heads. Just get a PE style carb from Akunar, they are US$70 bucks or around that. Gear leaver level is the go, it forces your foot in a good position, not hanging down to catch dirt! Same reason I have my levers down, forces elbows up, stylin
 
I'm actually running some shortened 8mm case cover bolts in the head cam retainer plate because the original ones decided to strip out and **** me (the phillips heads) never again. there good for builders screws but that it.

When i get some more $$ i will maybe go a pe style carb i am critical about having a nice carby though though and i dont know anyone else who has run them before..

Might see if i can get motormans pwk

I find for me to be comfortable when coming out of berms and access the gear lever without sliding my arse back to get to it its spot on.. i hope it doesn't get smashed by the dirt..
 
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