For Those about to Rock... buying OKO Flatslides..

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I might just hack at the frame more i think.

more fotos THE FORTH CHILD cbfed linking them all up
 
i recon a fakuni plastic isolator between the manifold and the adapter would work providing it doesnt push the top of the carb in to the fuel tap.
just port match the plastic spacer
 
Idea, buy tank with the tap on the other side, and do as someone said and dremel out the bolt holes by 1-2mm and swing it out just a touch that may almost do the trick
 
hmm, yeah thats the long way lol..

those style taps do interfere.
wats the chances of lifting the tank up with spacers as well as die grinding the bolt holes out?
 
I have a Honda bucket racer in New Zealand, and I was considering fitting up an OKO flatslide.

It's a 150cc as per the class limits for F4, and is made up of GL145 crankcases, GL145 crankshaft, rod and piston, XL125S 6 speed gearbox, and XR200 cylinder head. I have been using a normal flywheel and stator so far, but was considering going for a RM125 button flywheel and stator, or is there a Chinese option available which is often used on these pit bikes?

It's quite a serious engine, I'm looking at getting about 18-20 horsepower out of it.

What size do you think I should use? I was going to go for a 28mm, I think that probably a 30mm may be a little big, although all I am concerned with is top end performance, with perhaps a little upper midrange, as I am road racing and I am at high revs the whole time.

Any advise would be great.

Cheers,

Sam
 
28mm sounds like a perfect combination providing your compression ratio is pretty high (11.1:1 +)
as for the ignition i think this is a question for cactus jack as he knows his stuff when it comes to vertical honda engines
 
hey guys, just wondering if i should go a 26 or a 28?
i have a lifan 150 with:
* big bore exhaust
*bigger cam
*special high compression head i got made up by akunar
*oversized valves n upgraded springs
*port and polish job,
*lifan 150 adjustable ork
etc..
cheers for your help
 
26mm will be a direct bolt on and possible wouldnt even need a jet tune but you would need to tune the needle height..

the 28mm is a little tricky tune, theres a few ways of getting them good.. one easy way is to use a 26mm oko throttle slide, the other way is just to tune tune tune untill you have no hair left lol..

basically if your up for a challenge and know your way around carbies then go the 28mm but if your noob to it all then go the 26mm

also i wouldnt mind know more about your engine.. size valves? cam?
 
i ended up ordering the 26 off ken lastnight cuz couldnt sleep and wanted it lol so just went the easy option cause i need to get bike setup for weekend ride lol and few other goodies like the 4 piston front brakes and 2 piston rears, new grips etc but i went a bit over bored and got 30 buks left to get me through to pay day on friday haha.

well the engines a lifan 150 from when they first came out, changed all the kickstart gears and idlers in it to chunkier gears to avoid any problems wat so eva with the new head while i was gettin timin right etc, lifan adjustable ork, h bomb exhaust, soon to be 26 oko :) lol, ported and polished head, its only got 28/24 valves cause at the time the engines were only new and was limited on funds so just went with 28/24v with porting to match but valves, rockers, springs etc are all upgraded, the head was customised and stripped back, more alluminium was melted on to the face to give it more compression and then the valves were customised into the new face etc and base gasket has been removed, umm cam i ended up just puttin in my a7 from akunar CAMLF5070 7.00mm lift and i think thats all , cant think just finished work lol
 
HAHA dam u just ruin it for me :p lol was looking forward to them over the p.o.s brakes i have atm lol, are they better then the standard fastace as-01 brakes i have on front atm or? cuz the fronts are a good setup atm but backs are crap atm lol
 
hmm, cant comment on how they compare to stock fast ace fronts, but i wasnt overly impressed with mine... However, i reckon if you changed the front master cylinder over, from the one that comes stock with them, the braking power would improve... the back isnt too bad, nice and progressive, but not exactly mind blowing... Great idea, i think they might just be a bit on the small side.. think the master cylinders are a bit small or something... cause by rights, they should have plenty of stopping power...
 
that sucks lol woulda put the money towards a new set of billet wheels instead if had of known that, but ill let you know how they go when i get them and if i am able to make something up for more stopping power, but theoretically they are red so just like red cars go faster, these should stop quicker... lol you can tell ive been stuck in a building all day
 
exactly... looking good is half the battle won...
They arent terrible brakes, but you wont be doing one finger nose wheelies with them, put it that way...
I still reckon change the front master cylinder over, give the system a good bleed with some decent brake fluid right from the start, and you're at least in with a fighting chance
 
Actually a smaller master cylinder will result in less force on the brake lever to apply more force to the brake pad. You just get more travel. So if your brakes don't seem to be going very well, seem wooden, and takes lots of force to make them work well, your master cylinder is probably too big. I have a single pot calliper off a Suzuki on my road race bike and it can easily do 1 or 2 finger stoppies, and thats only got one pot!
 
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