General Engine Knowledge Please!

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kizza1645

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Hey there, I'm kind of a noob when it comes to dirt bikes...
but basically I know basic engine knowledge like operation, simple stuff etc.

But I need some help as I'm getting a new bike soon
'TDR 125 Semi-auto thumpster 2010'

So what I need to know is.....

When I recieve the bike do I straight away drain the crappy factory oil and replace with premium motor oil? if so what is the method to do this?

What are some basic tunning and bike procudures to remember when riding and after riding?

Does the carbi need to be adjusted after run in?

What should i keep in mind during run in?

Thanks, if i think of more ill post them.
 
When I recieve the bike do I straight away drain the crappy factory oil and replace with premium motor oil? if so what is the method to do this?
yes and no
yes you drain it right away.
no you don't use premium oil, you use full mineral oil, like castrol acvit 4t

What are some basic tunning and bike procudures to remember when riding and after riding?
meh been said a million times before, do a search
Does the carbi need to be adjusted after run in?
afer or before run in carby goes to the bin then you buy something decent

What should i keep in mind during run in?
run it in hard, load the engine with hard acceleration then let it engine brake to a low speed then load it hard again.. repeat..... that's how you seal the rings in.... so you run it hard but DON't rev the tits off it


another VERY important thing with a new bike is to set the valve clearances before and after the run-in.... this is the most common n00b mistake in pitbike history... they buy a bike never set the clearances then come on here 2 weeks later wondering why their bikes run like crap
 
yes and no
yes you drain it right away.
no you don't use premium oil, you use full mineral oil, like castrol acvit 4t


meh been said a million times before, do a search

afer or before run in carby goes to the bin then you buy something decent


run it in hard, load the engine with hard acceleration then let it engine brake to a low speed then load it hard again.. repeat..... that's how you seal the rings in.... so you run it hard but DON't rev the tits off it


another VERY important thing with a new bike is to set the valve clearances before and after the run-in.... this is the most common n00b mistake in pitbike history... they buy a bike never set the clearances then come on here 2 weeks later wondering why their bikes run like crap

I'm assuming the bike you are selling is already run in and adjusted accordingly.

would you suggest your bike for me?
 
I'm not selling a bike.... the motor I'm selling is run in and set up
 
The guys have said it all correctly ...

The reason why you throttle on hard is to create high enough cylinder pressure to get behind the rings and force them out hard against the cylinder wall ... That wears the peaks of the honing off and gives the best possible ring seal ...

The reason why you throttle on , let the bike pick up some speed , then totally chop the throttle letting it slow itself down in gear without touching the brakes is :

When the rings are wearing in , fine metal filings are produced ... If you keep on revving the engine out ... those filings get blown down into the sump oil because the rings haven't sealed yet ... When you instantly back the throttle off , the strong vacuum sucks oil upwards past the rings ... That helps lubricate the bore , rings and piston to prevent metal welding or seizing ... but the main thing it does is pulls the fine metal filings up into the combustion chamber where they then get blown out of the exhaust pipe ... instead of sitting between the rings and causing problems or getting blown into the bottom end ...

You don't want to labour , stall or idle a new motor for very long the same reasons ... If the idle circuit is too lean , you'll heat the piston and rings up too much ... plus less oil gets splashed onto the bore or pumped up to the top end at idle ... The peaks of the cam lobes can also heat up too ... they work harden over time ...

As the rings wear in ... they get hotter than usual so they expand more ... if you idle for too long or labour or rev the motor too much , they can get hot enough to butt the ends up and scuff the bore ...

That's why it's best to do your run in for very short periods at first with intermittent cooling down in between ... as the rings and bore wear in , the friction and heat lessens and the end gaps increase slightly ... once everything is properly run in , the rings and their end gaps stabilize ...

The Chinese engine manufacturers have more than likely taken into account that a lot of owners won't do the run in procedure properly ... so they most likely set the end gaps on the wide side for safety reasons ...

Drag racers use "file back" rings so that they can set the end gaps to their own specs ... the smaller the end gap , the greater the ring seal , the greater the cylinder pressure and the greater the power produced per cylinder ... But with tight end gaps ... the bed in procedure must be done spot on ...

They also use "Zero gap" second rings (ZGS) ... Childs and Albert makes them ...

You want to wear the rings into the cylinder wall in a controlled manner without wearing them too much ... so the on /off throttling procedure should be done in short bursts first ... then the rev out gradually increased as you feel the engine loosening up ...

You'll know when the rings are beginning to seal better because the engine will start easier , idle better and you'll feel it start making more power ... plus it'll start running cooler ...

Then you can enjoy a sweet running , smooth idling engine that holds it's tune ... A properly run in engine will idle steadily all day long without stalling ... a poorly run in engine will always seem like it's out of tune ... oil contamination affects how it runs ...
 
Nice one cactus, I'm gonna copy paste that into the tutorial section if you don't mind?
 
Do what you want with it mate ...

It's all pretty simple if you put your mind to it ... When the engine is run at idle speed there's more time for the oil to get squashed out from in between the parts ... and that creates more friction ... not good for a new motor ...

ie if you drive a car slowly thru water , the tyres squeegy the water out and maintain grip on the road ... but drive thru at a higher speed and the water will lift the car off the road causing it to aquaplane ...

The same thing applies to rocker arms running on cam lobes and pistons in bores ... When they are moving slower there's more time for the oil to be squeezed out ...

As to why the valve clearances should ALWAYS be checked regularly ... ESPECIALLY on a new engine ...

New valves tend to sink into the seats as they wear in ... and that causes a loss of rocker arm to valve stem clearance ... as a result of the lack of clearance ... compression escapes past the valves ...

The high pressure leak can burn the exhaust valve when the heat mixes with oxygen in the pipe by using the same principal that oxy acetylene cutting torches use ... the excessively hot exhaust valve stem can seize in the guide ... a hot valve head can also cause detonation ...

Leaks back past the inlet valve also cause a loss of compression ... the pressure waves of the blow back mess up the signal at the carb ... making the rider THINK that the carb has gone out of tune ...

The symptoms will be hard starting , rich running , hiccing , popping or back firing thru the carb ... The engine will stall often at idle ... and idle poorly ...

New valves tend to lose clearance at first ... but once they settle in they hold their clearance for a longer period ... The REAL culprit is unleaded fuel ... My XR75 engines never lost any valve clearance in over two years running on leaded or lead replacement fuel ... and they only run .002" on both valves ...
 
so basically to run a motor in am i correct to say to just ride it but dont race it?
 
so basically to run a motor in am i correct to say to just ride it but dont race it?

sort of, hills are a good place to run in a motor, load up the motor going up the hill to get the cylinder pressure up then let gravity pull the motor down the hill in a fairly low gear.
 

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