Help Daytona Anima 150 dying at 1/2 to full throttle

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Shawn5236

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I have a Daytona Anima engine that I am really struggling with.

Short story bought it as a 150cc and got it working pretty good, bought a 190 stoker kit and it wasn't working very good, put my 150cc back in...

NOW the problems:

It starts fine... but when I go past 1/2 throttle it starts cutting out, bogging, and generally runs like crap.

Wondering if it could be an ignition timing thing... my jetting is 38 pilot jet, 110 main jet on a PE28 Keihin carburetor at 5,300 ft elevation here in Colorado. I have the ignition advance set at position #3 and rev limiter at 13,500 which is what I had it at previously and it ran really good... especially at full throttle. I did try a 105 main jet prior because my plug was fouling and this seemed to fix the problem yet prior to that I was running a 110 and it ran superbly up to a point.

I have a race coming up this next weekend and I hope to be ready for action.

Thanks in advace for any all suggestions to trouble shoot and fit.
 
Did you line up the timing mark's correctly ?
And reset and refitted the cam chain tensioner before doing the bolt up on top?

Bogging is generally too lean
Do you have a enough fuel in it?
No vacuum leak's ?
 
Yes I did line up the timing marks.

My procedure was put the flywheel mark on the dot on the case.
Then put the sprocket on with the lines where they are showing horizontal... is this right?

On the leanness I don't think that's it because the plug is dark.

How do I check for vacuum leaks?

I should have never messed with the motor because I am afraid I really messed something up.
 
Don't stress it's all a leaning experience for you.
Usually it's something simple


Yeah the camshaft sound's like it's line up right,
if it wasn't it would be backfiring when you tried to start it, or it wouldn't start that easy.
As long as the cam lobe's were in the right position, there are 2 line's on the cam gear 180° apart
At TDC the cam lobe's should be pointing toward's the piston


I'm thinking there might be something blocking the main jet, or even that the main jet wasn't tightened properly and may have fallen out ?
Might have been why the 190 crank rod set up didn't rev properly too ?
Can you pull the carby off, take the slide out and remove the fuel bowl.
Check for bit's in the bottom of the fuel bowl that may have been blocking the hole in the main jet.
Look at the base of the carby up through the main jet and pilot jet and check they're open
If you can't see through it, take the jet out and blow through it.
Might pay to take the emulsion tube out too and check that is it open up through the middle bore/hole and that none of the small hole's across it are blocked up.
Give the whole carby a decent blow through with compressed air, including in through the 2 or 3 hole's on the air filter side
Remove the float and check there's nothing sitting in the seat that could be blocking or restricting it
Take the mixture screw and spring right out too when you are blowing it out
Refit the mixture screw and set it so it's about 1.75 full turn's out and readjust it once it's back together and running

To check for vacuum leak's, start the bike and let it idle
Spray some wd40 or carby cleaner etc onto the join's where the carby meet's the manifold adapter, adapter to the manifold and manifold to the head.
If the bikes' idle change's in any way then there's your leak.

Also check that the rubber boot over the cable and top of the carby is fitted correctly,
sometime's they can let more air through into the carby and play havoc with your air/fuel mixture's at higher rpm's
 
You were right man... the main jet fell out!!!

Works perfectly now.

Man I wish I kept the 190 in there now. I am feeling like a real idiot on this one. I would've never checked for that in a million years.

THANK YOU!!!
 
Lol, i've had it happen to me once too.
Chasing your tail till you finally find it sucks.

So it's all good again ?
I was surprised to hear you pulled the 190 crank out and refitted the 150.
Oh well it's all experience,
you'll know what to look out for next time, and you'll be able to rebuild it a lot quicker too now.
 
Yes thanks again... some time in the future I'm sure I'll put the 190 back now that I've done it a couple of times I know the drill at least.

You are very good at diagnosing problems and were a huge help to me... I owe you a beer man :)
 
For others that are thinking of putting a stroker kit in the 150cc Daytona motor...

I cannot give any opinion on gains since I never had it running right. I can however comment on my experience disassembling and installing a crank and piston.

Taking the motor out of my Piranha frame wasn't too bad. The biggest pain in the ass was splitting the cases (kinda stuck the first time) and them putting them back together. The first time I did not take apart the transmission but the second time I did (just wanted to go through the whole thing to make sure everything was good).

I am a very amateur mechanic and it was pretty hard for me but not impossible. One big problem I had was removing some fasteners. For instance on the generator cover there are two phillips head bolts that were totally seized in there that I could not get out. I ended up have to fish in the cam chain on the main shaft sprocket which made it more difficult than it needed to be.

As far as special tools you need a impact wrench (I used a 1/2" drive Craftsman cordless unit rated up to 300ft/lbs I believe that cost me $80 and worked great.) You also need a special socket that is made for the nut that holds on the gears for the flywheel and clutch I believe. Also you need a flywheel puller tool. These special tools cost me about $20 from the pit bike supplier I use here in the USA Wholesale Cycle - Piranha Pit Bikes, Engines, & Parts

The stoker kit cost me $200 and came with everything I needed including gaskets.

I like to tinker with mechanical things so it was a good way to learn but very frustrating when I ran into trouble with problems that I didn't understand. I was working off of a Youtube video without commentary and have yet to locate any kind of shop manual for this engine.

I think the biggest challenge for me is exercising patience and not getting too rushed. That's just my character flaw so other than that it was a pretty good engine to wrench on.
 

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