Kurlon
Active Member
So, I hobbled up a bashfest engine out of spare parts after my TB160 setup blew it's cookies all over the place.
Lifan 120 with a 57mm Tak XR100 Superhead piston, TB cylinder, nice thin copper head gasket, stock untouched head with a TB 300a cam and to top it off, a Mikuni VM26 carb as it just didn't like my PE28. The other end is a 1st generation Ultima CRF70 pipe. In other words, a moderate compression 140cc import with restricted breathing in the head.
I'm working on dialing in the jetting and I've gotten down to a 17.5 pilot / 145 main, and it's still reading fat at idle. My 15 (smallest available for the VM26) just arrived so I'll test that tonight. Am I over-carbing the poor thing, or is it possible for this hodge-podge of parts to have that strong a signal at idle? Seems odd to be at this end of the range when I'm typically seeing suggestions for mid 20s pilots when others play with this carb.
Terry, is there a sling delete clutch cover setup that bolts up, no cutting of the crank arm required?
Lifan 120 with a 57mm Tak XR100 Superhead piston, TB cylinder, nice thin copper head gasket, stock untouched head with a TB 300a cam and to top it off, a Mikuni VM26 carb as it just didn't like my PE28. The other end is a 1st generation Ultima CRF70 pipe. In other words, a moderate compression 140cc import with restricted breathing in the head.
I'm working on dialing in the jetting and I've gotten down to a 17.5 pilot / 145 main, and it's still reading fat at idle. My 15 (smallest available for the VM26) just arrived so I'll test that tonight. Am I over-carbing the poor thing, or is it possible for this hodge-podge of parts to have that strong a signal at idle? Seems odd to be at this end of the range when I'm typically seeing suggestions for mid 20s pilots when others play with this carb.
Terry, is there a sling delete clutch cover setup that bolts up, no cutting of the crank arm required?