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Hi guys,

Quick update - I took the bike another ride yesterday after upgrading the sprockets (from 15/41 to 17/37) & it is heaps better - 1st gear is nice. I wouldn't even mind going with a 35 rear. The clearance is tight between the chain over the top of the front sprocket & the engine case - as long as i maintain correct chain tension it will be fine - here is a pic (5mm clearance at most i'd say):

chain.jpg

I also spoke to Casey from DHZ - what a champion & really accommodating. I asked him about tuning & he said as long as it is not bogging or hesitating, just leave it as is :) good advice imo.

When I rode it yesterday, I stalled it on a steep hill & it took quite a few kicks to start it again - I asked Casey & he said that the fuel evaporates when the engine is hot so I could try start it next time with the choke on OR he thinks that I should adjust the air mixture to 1/2 turn out from tight and increase the idle & that will deliver more fuel when restarting. I'll try it as I'm not sure if it will hold a clean idle on this setting.

When I adjusted it to 2 turns (current setting), the revs did not noticeably change once I got past 1/2 turn from memory - I did trial it & screwed it in all the way & it bogged down wanting to stall but like I said, once I get past 1/2 turn the idling is clean & seems to peak there.

Lastly, these Braaap stickers tend to peel off on some of the tips (more around the rear where there is exhaust heat) - is this normal as I keep pressing down the edges where it lifts? I was told to use contact cleaner, however, I used metho which is great for cleaning & non oily.
 
l wouldn't go taller than 17/37 especially if you do any hill climbing of forest trails. You will be nursing the clutch a lot when navigating overs rock ,humps and debris. Definitely be easier to stall.

You get used to starting your bike the more you familiarise with how the 190 behaves .The harder and faster you try to kick it wont like it.. increase the idle a little ..
Also temperature changes /altitude and variable engine temperature must be considered .
The Air screw is there to be played with ..

l glue my stickers back with liquid nails (solvent based type) just pump a little under the sticker push down then wipe off excess with turps . If sticker tends to pull back up place a little masking tape temporarily until dry..
 
china911 said:
l wouldn't go taller than 17/37 especially if you do any hill climbing of forest trails. You will be nursing the clutch a lot when navigating overs rock ,humps and debris. Definitely be easier to stall.

You get used to starting your bike the more you familiarise with how the 190 behaves .The harder and faster you try to kick it wont like it.. increase the idle a little ..
Also temperature changes /altitude and variable engine temperature must be considered .
The Air screw is there to be played with ..

l glue my stickers back with liquid nails (solvent based type) just pump a little under the sticker push down then wipe off excess with turps . If sticker tends to pull back up place a little masking tape temporarily until dry..
Click to expand...

Ok - thanks for the tip :)
Will liquid nails eat away or damage the plastics?
 
Pilot jetting might be too small if the rev's didn't increase past half a turn out.
Lean Pilot jet also make's it hard to start.

Sound's like it need's to be tuned/jetted to me, try the next pilot jet up from what you have now (#42 stock so try a #45 ? ) and retune it the way i described before
Bigger pilot might mean you'll need a smaller main jet too.

With the sticker's lifting you can use plastic adhesion primer on the plastic's, it's a clear aerosol spray, and you can buy it at most auto shop's, spray it on and stick the sticker's on.
But if they're dirty they won't restick too well
 
Liquid nails wont eat into plastic.. l do it on all my bikes ..Its just a band aide solution .. if you high pressure clean your bike a few time it may lift again ..Just reapply.. better than seeing curling edges on decals..
 
The best stuff to get use on your graphics when they start to lift is:

3m Edge Sealer

They won't come off after that. Expensive stuff but works wonders.
 
I'll look into that motorman, 3m products are always top notch.

I just had a look at the new generation 2016 braaap...I'm not a fan of the twin pipes (increase dry weight from 69kg to 79kg), graphics are kinda boring and the alloy silver rims hmmm:
2016 braaap MX1 190cc

Also now has a 28mm Keihin, is it the PE28?
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately not Craig. I am subscribed to many other forums but for some reason I don't get notifications on this forum only :(
 
Marko R1 said:
I'll look into that motorman, 3m products are always top notch.

I just had a look at the new generation 2016 braaap...I'm not a fan of the twin pipes (increase dry weight from 69kg to 79kg), graphics are kinda boring and the alloy silver rims hmmm:
2016 braaap MX1 190cc

Also now has a 28mm Keihin, is it the PE28?
Click to expand...
It is a very poorly designed bike actually. Especially the rear end with those dual pipes and shock in the middle.
The job of a shock is to convert kinetic energy into thermal energy. A n efficient shock will only heat up a little but especially in competition large scale stuff the shocks have cooling fins on them. The hotter the shocks the poorer the performance.
Having the shock and piggyback in between two VERY hot exhaust pipes is definitely not going to help.
Other than that it looks pretty sweet. A bit heavy though. My yz250 is 95kg so its not far off....

Sent from my HTC_0P6B6 using Tapatalk
 
Did you get a chance to have a look at the bars .. Braaap claiming to have a mapping switch.
Few months back l tried a few gadgetries /connections but never tested on bike .. lm a little worried l blow the 190 . LOL
 
china911 said:
Did you get a chance to have a look at the bars .. Braaap claiming to have a mapping switch.
Few months back l tried a few gadgetries /connections but never tested on bike .. lm a little worried l blow the 190 . LOL
Click to expand...

what is a mapping switch? is it a display for engine vitals?
 
I'd guess at saying it's a switch set up that allow's you to change the timing/rev limiter setting's via switch's on the bar's
Probably has some led indicator light too ?
 
my67xr said:
I'd guess at saying it's a switch set up that allow's you to change the timing/rev limiter setting's via switch's on the bar's
Probably has some led indicator light too ?
Click to expand...

if that is the case, i am 100% keen to get it - pls share any info if available :)
 
I have no idea, it was a guess, i've never heard anything about it.

Run that engine in first before you go playing around with it though, how many hour's do you have on it now?
What does the plug look like after a wot plug chop ?
 
Braaap (see web site) is claiming to have on the fly map switch..(Have not seen it myself) Before braaap released the MX1 2016 I was working on a 4 way switch.. 2 way is a lot simpler as my euro bikes have them )and a hard /soft option is maybe all you need.
This requires me to test 2 out of the best maps .. To be honest l drive 3 hours 1 way to ride my bike and when im there I just want to cut laps.. always strapped for time.. One day l will get on to it . If braaap do have one as a spare part it will be easier to buy and install.. .
 
my67xr said:
I have no idea, it was a guess, i've never heard anything about it.

Run that engine in first before you go playing around with it though, how many hour's do you have on it now?
What does the plug look like after a wot plug chop ?
Click to expand...

2.7hrs thus far. How many hrs would u recommend until it's run in?

Plug chop I haven't done yet...if I'm on wot for 30sec, it will be bouncing off the limiter? I'm still a bit unclear on this method
 
Start with a new plug, take off, get into top gear with low rpm, then roll into wot. Once you get near the limiter kill then engine and same time pull the clutch in. Roll to a stop, whip out the plug and have a look at the porcelain area at the tip. You want a coffee colour. White is to lean, black and sooty to rich. Is better to do on a hill, but on the flat will still work.

Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk
 
2.7hr's would be close on one tank of fuel wouldn't it ? so you're half way there.

When you advance the timing thing's will get hotter inside the engine etc and if your jetting is wrong then the damage's start's happening like detonation which will eat away at your piston, scarring bore's damaging ring's, bit of alloy getting stuck in valve seat and burning the valves, cooking valve guide's, stem seals and more

A good used plug is fine to do a chop, it is slightly easier to see the colour than on a brand new plug.
 
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