Tear down bike and parts COMPLETLY

Discussion in 'Mini Tutorials & How To's' started by bulldog93, Sep 5, 2009.

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  1. Sep 10, 2009 #21

    bulldog93

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    [​IMG]
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    For Reassembly of your carby, simply reverse the steps above

    Thanks to Thump*140 for helping me with terminology and fixing a few little mistakes:eek:

    Carby is done. Sorry for the crap paint work first time :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2009
  2. Sep 10, 2009 #22

    thump*140

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    Nice work Bulldog, it's threads like this that are useful. Puts them as simply as possible for the noobs wanting to see how their bike works, how it comes apart, and hopefully, how it goes back together.

    Brava, young man!!!

    Happy to help mate. :)
     
  3. Sep 22, 2009 #23

    bulldog93

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    Engine pull down: Head and barrel.
    [​IMG]

    Before you do anything drain the oil out (preferably engine in the bike in the bike). Take dash plate off (2x 8mm bolts). Oil cooler (2x 12mm bolts). Carbi, if not already off (2x 10mm bolts). Kick starter (1x 11mm).
    You should have now:
    -Kick starter
    -Oil cooler
    -Carbi
    -Dash plate and
    -The engine
    [​IMG]

    The head:
    1)You’ll have to take off the cam sprocket cover (1x 10mm bolt) to access the cam sprocket/ timing sprocket (3x 9mm bolts, you’ll have to A) put in gear or B) stick a screw driver in the fly wheel to stop it spinning). Once the timing chain is off the sprocket you’ll be able to take the head off (1x 10mm/Phillips head bolt. 4x 10mm studs at front of head) the barrel and engine rods (watch out for any washers or little rods).
    2)Take off the caps/covers on the front (4x 10mm studs), top/inlet (2x 8mm bolts), bottom/outlet (2x 8mm bolts) and the side (2x 8mm bolts). You’ll then be looking at the head.
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  4. Sep 22, 2009 #24

    bulldog93

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    The rockers and cam:
    After you take off the caps/covers turn the head so that that the bearing(where the cam sprocket was) is facing down. Now get some needle nose plyers or similar and take out the rocker pins in the bolt holes. Undo the little bolt that holds/adjusts the rockers/valves(1x 10mm nut, one on each rocker). Then you can push out the cam. NOTE: I haven’t pulled the valve springs out.
    [​IMG]
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  5. Sep 22, 2009 #25

    bulldog93

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    The barrel:
    There’ll be a bolt on the flywheel side of the motor. Take that out (1x 10mm/Phillips head bolt), it holds the timing chain spacer in place. Then underneath that there’ll be another bolt (1x 10mm/Phillips head bolt) which holds the barrel to the casing. After you take that out the barrel should slide off nicely.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You should now have all these parts on your work bench:
    [​IMG]

    Props to thump*140 (for giving advice:)) and DvDRip (for finding that thread..I would've been sitting there still trying to find the rocker pins:eek:)
     
  6. Sep 22, 2009 #26

    thump*140

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    Nice work Doggy, this tute thread is getting better and better.

    Now to see if it works when you put it all back together.... ;)
     
  7. Sep 22, 2009 #27

    bulldog93

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    I hope it does.... Would I be able to put this head, barrel and pistion on a 110??
     
  8. Sep 22, 2009 #28

    thump*140

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    i have no idea to be honest. i'd say the crank length would be different..
    have you lunched the gearbox or something on the 160?
     
  9. Sep 23, 2009 #29

    bulldog93

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    Yeah the 150 gearbox doesn't like to be put into gear except 1st? But I got a 11 with a great gearbox, clutch ect but I need a stator for it.
     
  10. Sep 23, 2009 #30

    thump*140

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    well if you continue with the teardown, why not look at the gearbox while you're at it? might be something simple with the selectors or dogs etc. has it always been difficult to select gears?
     
  11. Sep 23, 2009 #31

    bulldog93

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    I don't know I brought it second hand like this but I was told that it wouldn't stay into gear..So the first time I pulled it down we got it to select gears and then it wouldn't stay? And the clutch is crap as well won't work and still doesn't...Thats why I'm pulling this motor down to find out whats wrong with it and make a tut as I go..... I hope it's something simple when I pull it down and maybe by the pic someone could tell me whats wrong.

    I'm definently going to keep on pulling it down. I just wanted to know that becuase my uncle rekons you can put the head and barrel on the 110 no probs but I don't think you can...
     
  12. Sep 23, 2009 #32

    thump*140

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    hmm... the stud pattern may be the same, but i would be concerned at the stroke/conrod length... think the 160 may have a longer stroke... easiest way to check, would be to measure the length of the cylinder... ie from base gasket face to head gasket face... if the 110 cylinder is the same length as the 160, you might be ok...
    if the clutch is playing up, and the gears wont select, then yeah i'd say something isnt right with the selectors and clutch... maybe stiffer springs in the basket will help if it's slipping... once you have the basket out, look for grooves where the clutch plates wear on the outer basket...
    you never know, you might be lucky, and it's somethign as simple as running the wrong sort of oil in the engine...
     
  13. Sep 23, 2009 #33

    bulldog93

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    I'll pull it apart when mum gets home off the out RHS case and did a quick write up send it to you and I'll also send a few extra photos of the clutch ect.

    Hope it fits. I'll measure tonight:).
     
  14. Sep 23, 2009 #34

    bulldog93

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    Found out that there is a layer of oil all over the clutch and clutch plates. There are no sings of any adnormal markings on the clutch parts. I put the head back togeather, wasn't that hard but one of the rockers has alot of play 3-5mm of movement? but it seems to compress the valve spring exactly the same as the other rocker which has next to no play (0.5mm).

    Thump*140 going to send you an e-mail tonight for the RHS of the engine.
     
  15. Sep 24, 2009 #35

    thump*140

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    the play in the rockers will most likely be caused by the need to set the valve clearances. :)
     
  16. Sep 24, 2009 #36

    t00l

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    thump i know this depends on riders weight and how hard you ride the bike etc, but how long would you say as a rough general guide before the valve clearances seat properly for a new bike?
    or would it still be good practice to check them every "x" amount of hours of breaking in?
     
  17. Sep 25, 2009 #37

    thump*140

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    mate this question is dependant on about a squillion things... kinda like asking why is the sky blue, how long is a piece of string, and why do women go a little "crazy" from time to time with no advanced warning... ;) (okay, so the sky is blue due to refraction of light through water particles in the air reflecting from the oceans etc, and a piece of string is twice the length from the middle to the outside end, but no one can answer the last one... h aha ha)
    After a couple of hours, or tankfulls the valves should be pretty well seated, depending on how hard the bike is run in... it is also highly dependant on what the valves are set at from factory, and the motor itself. eg my Hungten motor, i have never done the valve clearances... never had to, and it still fires quickly, has good compression etc... but my lifan 140, i keep on top of them...
    i'd probably check them after the first tank full, after the third tankfull, then as required... or, if you want to look at it in hours, after the first day you take it out riding, after the second time you take it out riding, then just keep an eye and ear on them on subsequent rides...
    So, check them after the first hour of riding, after the third hour of riding, then every ten hours or so of actual engine running time... :D
     
  18. Sep 25, 2009 #38

    bulldog93

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    Last edited: Sep 25, 2009
  19. Sep 25, 2009 #39

    sean01

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    iv come in a little late i think....iv read the whole thread but it just doesnt seem clear to me..

    what is the size of the engine in this thread?
    and what is the size of the engine you want to know if the top end will fit on?

    its all dependent on many things...

    piston pin to top of piston height.
    piston pin size.
    length of barrel.
    stud spacing.

    sorry if you have to repeat yourself...had a few rums and not reading real well.....lol
     
  20. Sep 25, 2009 #40

    bulldog93

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    I've got a zongshen 150 and I want to see if it'll fit on a 110....Hmm I don't think I'll bother with it.
     

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