Tear down bike and parts COMPLETLY

Discussion in 'Mini Tutorials & How To's' started by bulldog93, Sep 5, 2009.

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  1. Sep 25, 2009 #41

    sean01

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    ok, so your saying the engine in this thread is a zonger 150?
    dont think i have seen one without the klx style head or one without the daytona type clutch cover(yx150 dt-5)..
    and it has a cast iron barrel..

    can you confirm piston size and stroke.. or maybe even engine number..

    hmm am i missing something..
     
  2. Sep 25, 2009 #42

    sean01

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  3. Sep 25, 2009 #43

    bulldog93

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    Engine #: ZS1P56YMJ
    [​IMG]

    Heres a pic of the end of the barrel/cylinder approx 59mm
    [​IMG]

    Will get better pics in moring when mum gets back from work 10:00am about there....I take more measure ments if need be but tomorrow.
     
  4. Sep 25, 2009 #44

    sean01

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  5. Sep 25, 2009 #45

    bulldog93

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    Nah mate its all good..Doesn't bother me..just means I have to ask the seller a few more Q's (he hasn't been the most trust werthy person:()

    Cheers for the links to:).
     
  6. Sep 25, 2009 #46

    t00l

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    I did realise this after posting :p

    I was just interested in learning a bit more about my bike and thought I would give the zonga a check :)

    as for women, best to chart out when the red rivers flowing, that way you know when to spoil her a bit in advance to keep her happy ;)
    and don't take the dirt track, that upsets some women more :p
     
  7. Sep 25, 2009 #47

    sean01

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    by any chance did you get this bike off ebay within the last couple of weeks?

    there were 2 bikes on there advertised as 150's and clearly werent, and when i confronted them regarding this they said..

    i got told it was a 150 when i bought it and i bought it new so it must be.

    and the other said "are you buying it? if not dont worry about it"

    i was pretty shocked at the last reply and from memory i think i gave him a serve in a reply email....

    sucks that theres ppl out there like this...

    hope you didnt get scammed by one of these ppl...
     
  8. Sep 25, 2009 #48

    bulldog93

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    Nah mate I brought this a couple of months ago off a member on here..People like the last guy are just idiots. Thanks for you concern and help much appreciated:)
     
  9. Sep 28, 2009 #49

    bulldog93

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    The outer RHS casing/ clutch cover:
    [​IMG]

    1)Take off the clutch cover (8x 8mm bolts)
    2)Take of the four Phillips head screws holding the oil slinger cover on (note these need to be taken off by an impact screwdriver, if you do not have an impact screw driver you can use a Phillips head screw driver and a hammer).
    3)Get a flat head screw driver and knock back the little notches and take of the nut (will need a special tool to do this or use a cold chisel and hammer,(don’t recommend using the hammer method).
    4)Now slide off the oil slinger.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    5)Now to take off the clutch, take the bolts holding the cover on (4x 10mm bolts undo them evenly so the springs won’t smash you in the face). Take off the springs then slide off.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Sep 28, 2009 #50

    bulldog93

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    6)Once the clutch is off take the cog that’s on the shaft and directly left will be another cog, you’ll have to use circlip pliers to take off the circlip and that’ll allow you to slide off the cog. Take off both off the cogs on the oil slinger shaft.
    [​IMG]

    7)Now take off the star selector (1x 10mm). Take out bottom pin where the star selector is to allow the gear shifter to fling up and then pull out.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Sep 28, 2009 #51

    bulldog93

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    [​IMG]

    Sorry about there not being any text on the pics as this was a spear of the moment thing and also the last couple of pics have to be re-done becuase they're shit :eek:.... Thanks thump*140 like always awsome help.
     
  12. Sep 28, 2009 #52

    thump*140

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    anytime buddy, here to help, plus your doing a great job on this one, there isnt anything this thorough on here. nice work doggy boy.. :D
    also saves me from tearing the 140 apart to satisfy the curiosity of others. :)
     
  13. Sep 29, 2009 #53

    bulldog93

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    Last edited: Sep 29, 2009
  14. Sep 29, 2009 #54

    DvDRip

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    hey bulldog I could hear you loud and clear
     
  15. Sep 29, 2009 #55

    bulldog93

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    Hmmm I must be going def? Thats not good:(

    To much Ipod.....
     
  16. Sep 29, 2009 #56

    logicquests

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    hI,

    First Post. Thanks for the very informative breakdown. Very gutsy to pull things apart like you have.

    If I was to do this, I am certain I would be left with all sorts of bits and pieces in need of a home.

    Nuts and bolts seem to multiply when I have removed them from something.

    Logic
     
  17. Sep 29, 2009 #57

    bulldog93

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    Welcome Logicquests.

    Yes there are alot of nuts and bolts but if you keep them in a cantainer thats small and icolated then you'll be fine(I'll get a pic later of what I mean).

    Thank you.
     
  18. Sep 30, 2009 #58

    twisties

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    hey bulldog, thanks so much for taking the time to make this thread! very informative for me as i've been way to scared to pull my engine apart to this extent.
     
  19. Sep 30, 2009 #59

    bulldog93

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    Yay I got some circlip pliers today:):) I can finaly finish the engine... Should be written up hopefully by friday as I have tomorrow and friday off (going out to morrow with a mate though) but I won't be on untill 1week after the weekend as I'm going to the gold coast:)....
     
  20. Oct 3, 2009 #60

    bulldog93

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    Continued Engine split.

    After you’ve done all of that you should take of the little bracket near the kick start shaft (2x 10mm bolts). Then take off the circlip that holds the cog on, after that there’ll be another circlip take that off and then take off the cog (watch out for washers, last two [2] steps are optional). Turn the engine around so that the flywheel is facing you; take out the engine casing bolts (7x 10mm bolts). Give the engine a little tap with a rubber hammer/mallet and the pry the casings apart. After you have separated the casings from one another get the RHS casing and look at the ‘inside’ of it. The kick start shaft will need to be pulled out which is held the by a circlip undo that and then you should be able to slide it through the ‘outside’ of the casing (should have: 3x washers, 1x spring, 1x circlip). While the flywheel is still facing you undo the black rubber cap, inside that cap will be a bolt undo that (1x allenkey bolt size 6). After that you’ll be able to take out the gear selector and gear shafts with cogs (there might be a few loose cogs watch out for them).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ^^(This is what you’ll have when you pull off the second circlip)^^
     

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