PB, I think you already got this data:
OKO-26 flat:
Stock: M= K102 (39 thou), slow=K37, air screw = 1+1/8. needle = mid
Current: M=(K102 or K105), slow=K38, screw = 1+7/8, needle up 1 posn (rich).
Manifold: 25.0mm all the way. rubber join ID shaped from 26.5 to 25.0mm
Bowl level: was low when new (throttle bog at low lean angles).
It runs unreal! Stock OKO26. No pumper. Almost idiot proof to throttle usage. Slightly rich the whole way through but very responsive so the bike is easier to control and turn in snotty corners and terrain. The Fuelstar TM-VC device in the fuel tank probably helps a lot too - cleaner/crisper burn. Beware quality control diffs between same model OKO carb can mean what works for my carb might not be the same on another OKO26.
I run a 60mm flange unifilter on the end of my 60mm ID intake "snorkle", but this carb setup runs exactly the same (in dry conditions) with a 50mm flange unifilter mounted directly on the carb intake.
My 150 has the Akunar A1 cam, akunar valves and springs, and 2 stiffer clutch springs to avoid slip. Ignition stock. Good range of usable power. The stock 150 cam made the engine a little flat in the low RPMs for my liking. The good carb setup is the most important thing with any cam.
Good luck.