Yx150 machined outer rotor kit

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sam93

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Hey guys after some more tech help with the 150....
It's a klx style motor not the Dayton type...I'm getting an outer rotor kit and got told
that I need to get it machined down 3mm. Where abouts doesn't it fit?

Thanks guys.
Samuel.
 
Hey Sam, I you want I have an irk for you, it didn't fit on the Daytona, but it is the same used by Ryan on his YX150, I can come fit it for you too if you want, I have all the tools.
 
Hey guys after some more tech help with the 150....
It's a klx style motor not the Dayton type...I'm getting an outer rotor kit and got told
that I need to get it machined down 3mm. Where abouts doesn't it fit?

Thanks guys.
Samuel.
i have a yx150 with an outer rotor kit and i had to do this
the base of the unit with the oil seals, it needs 3mm machined off where the bolts screw into (the threaded part).
if this isnt done the outer roter/flywheel wont do up it bottoms out on the pick up plate (has the copper coils onit) the one that moves to change your timming not sure if yours is the same but this is what i found with mine hope this helps.
 
Barnes that would be great mate! My new piston and rings will be here next week want to help me do the top end rebuild and the irk in one hit?

Cheers...
 
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I have never done a top end before and when it comes to new pistons and balancing the crank to match, its waaaay out of my league and, like all of mine and dad's bike we send them off to be done. That way if something does go wrong its not your fault and plus you will get a better job and more power and reliability out of it. Just ask Dave about his 4fif and what an unbalanced crank will do.
I just don't want to be responsible for an unbalanced engine that shakes itself apart.
But would be more than happy to do the irk and wiring.
 
It's refreshing to read info posted by someone who grasps the importance of crank and reciprocating component balancing ... Far too many fools think you just swap parts and everything will be OK ... ie Head in the sand type thinking ...
 
I have never done a top end before and when it comes to new pistons and balancing the crank to match, its waaaay out of my league and, like all of mine and dad's bike we send them off to be done. That way if something does go wrong its not your fault and plus you will get a better job and more power and reliability out of it. Just ask Dave about his 4fif and what an unbalanced crank will do.
I just don't want to be responsible for an unbalanced engine that shakes itself apart.
But would be more than happy to do the irk and wiring.

wouldn't the irk install throw it out of balance? not that I'd worry about it but you taking a LOT of weight off one side of the crank, then chucking a lighter oil sling will help but it's still not gonna be balanced is it?
:S
 
The irk weighs 154g. I have no idea how much a sling weighs but im sure an alloy one would be around that weight.
 
he's replacing it with an original yx 150 piston, so theres no unbalancing really.. not that any too pistons are the same weight but still.

and im with you dvdrip

fair enough if the piston is marginally heavier or lighter than the original, and to be honest id very much doubt these engines are balanced properly to start with...

and to make a long story short... are car engines balanced from factory? NO
even tho there a different engine there still an engine and a car engine has more factors to account for being unbalanced..

on a side note.. i have however seen lifan engines snap a crank from installing an irk and choosing to leave the heavy steel slinger installed...
and also i have seen a lifan150 snap for no apparent reason..

these are the only 2 issues i have seen, which speak for themselves.

also think of it this way...
on one side you have only the magneto weight and valve train weight.
now on the other side you you have the slinger weight and also the stress of the gearbox..
just imagine how much flex and twist these cranks have to put up with...

i guess wat im trying to say is no matter what you do there always going to be unbalanced, sure you can decrease the chances but on a stocker its not worth the drama..
 
if my daytona flywheel weight is 655g can i turn it down and get some weight off it so it spins up faster?
if the IRK's have a weight of 155g then how much would i be able to take off?
 
it would depend... you have to see how thick it is and leave a decent thickness or else it will blow apart or maybe start cracking..

didnt you just add a bunch of CC's man... surely it spins up quicker now
 
if my daytona flywheel weight is 655g can i turn it down and get some weight off it so it spins up faster?
if the IRK's have a weight of 155g then how much would i be able to take off?

Wouldn't it be easier to buy an IRK (or light weight ORK)? :)
 
yeah ive got more cc's but still getting the cam chain tension right. the shop needs to make another size base plate.

i dont want to buy a IRK as i will have to change the whole system. im prob getting a Tokyo Mods stage 3 system but i want to lighten the flywheel a little. same with the daytona ignitions. if you put a IRK on it you cant use the daytona staged ignition settings.
 
ya can if you wire it up

after all the magneto is there to generate the power needed to power the cdi and the pickup is there to act as a crank angle sensor so in reality you can wire any cdi to it ya like
 
The daytona cdi has 4 wires connected to it and each wire has its own coil inside the magneto. an irk generates a completly different wave that the daytona cdi can pick-up and rectify into a spark.
 
its quiet possible as i have never tried one, i was thinking it would go on as every cdi i have tried so far is wire-able to any stator/magneto.

i would love to get my hands on a daytona cdi for testing...but of course no one will sell one
 

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