air intake snorkle

[numroe]

what happend to your rear shock cover.you over it or you just didnt have it on?

Just did not have it on. I'd just refitted the shock after getting it re-oiled and gassed. I'd never ride without the flap to protect my shock.

also id advise with all your other purchases that you get a over sized radiator style oil cooloer as they are much more efficiant and keep the bike that extra bit cooler

Good idea. I've thought about doing that. Last weekend I would only ride hard for about 20mins for fear of too much heat if I was doing low speed but wide open riding in soft dirt. It was only 20C too. Next summer a need for more cooling will be an issue. What make and model cooler do you recommend? Since it gets a lot of mud and crud on it, I am thinking it cannot have delicate fins which will get clogged or damaged. Keen for suggestions. Thanks!

 

[motoXXX]

i think that the billet cooler that you have and the radiato aare the only 2 style cooler avalible but if you would wanna get good quality you can get the billet takegawa oil coolers but they are around $250 + they are still billet but i would think a company with a good name and well known for there great quality parts would have somthing that works VERY WELL its worth a look into anyway

cheers mate

 

[wogtaz ryder]

great work!! love what you done im definately gonna think about doin both , and about the radiator coolers i saw somewere on this site i think about making a cover infront of the cooler to protect the fins wich was easy and efficient , just like a clear plastic rectangle mounted in front of the cooler i think it was.. ill be doin something like that when i get me a radiator style cooler.

nice work (Y)

 

[motoXXX]

that will stop all the air flow but wont it???

 

[cass38a]

that will stop all the air flow but wont it???

Yes, stupid idea.

You could mount the cooler on the front of your forks (where your number plate is) where it wond cop as much crap from the front wheel. Or you could raid your missus pantyhose and make some tear offs. (these could melt, but I was just thinking).

 

[numroe]

and about the radiator coolers ...

The usual solution is that the front fender goes low enough to protect the radiators from your own front wheel roost.

As for roost and rocks off bikes in front of you, the OEM solution is angled plastic grill plates. After market products include radiator protectors.

I am not racing my SR, and so I just feel when it's getting hot, and back off, or go low throttle and medium speed and cool the engine down a bit.

A mini's fender could be extended on the rear/bottom end. The SR's is only a tad short.

 

[FiddyBasher]

Since changing my filter to a unifilter ive never had problem riding thru ruts filled with water at least up to the bashlate at any pace. Along with dust proofing, isn't that what filter oil is for?

 

[pbk]

i need some help i did the same thing numore has done all seems to go good except for it bogs out once i hit high revs it works fine with pipe only and no airfiltet (just revving it) but when i out airfilter on it bogs.........my guess is i change the main jet my carb is a mikuni 30mm dont tihnk its genuine coz it came stock on my dhz monster 140 would this fix the problem??

 

[numroe]

all seems to go good except for it bogs out once i hit high revs it works fine with pipe only and no airfiltet

Did you construct it the same as mine (see http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/tech-talk/15882-air-intake-snorkle-6.html#post161225) or is your duct smaller in diameter? The duct and filter and join cannot be any smaller because the duct has to act like an airbox to feed the carb on demand for every intake pulse. I found I could run the same size main jet with or without my duct and filter, and it revved out the same. You could instead decrease your main jet size (if the rich problem is only at WOT), but then you are giving away HP.

 

[unitrider08]

never had anything deeper than bashplate on any of my bikes besides the cr125 but that got a top mount spark plug with a mini is your sparkplug and cap sealed for stull like a creek crossing like what would happen if i went that deep on a mini????

 

[t.luisetto]

total cost on number 2??

and maybe a list of where you got everything from...?

just wanna bite your invention...!

 

[numroe]

Cost. Not sure. Maybe $20 for the duct from Enzed. The adapter rubber to fit the large duct to the carb was free. I used some black silicone to glue the adapter in the front end of the duct. The hose clamps were bugger all. The airfilter was whatever Unifilter charge. The alum tube between the duct and airfilter was an off cut of some tube I had lying around my place. The sizes of everything are as I wrote in an earlier posting in this thread.

I can ride across a creek with the carb just underwater. But I rarely have to do that of course. I just got tired of not being able to ride properly in rain or mud, and even washing my bike was a complete hassel. Honestly makes my bike so much more practical for what I do with it.

total cost on number 2??

and maybe a list of where you got everything from...?

just wanna bite your invention...!

 

[Achmed]

There is a reason why the aircleaner is usually connected directly to the carby, it has to do with volumetric pressure. If you were to dyno the engine with and without your setup you would notice a drop in power. Also with that ribbed intake it will suffer from 'intake swirl' resulting in variable intake pressure.

If you are using a decent filter, your not going to suck grit through it anyway.
And remember, never wash your filter in petrol as it expands the foam.

 

[numroe]

Hey I'm not convinced. Let me explain.

There is a reason why every real dirt race bike has an airbox and large airfilter and NO direct mounted air filter. It's the only practical solution for normal riding conditions. My "snorkle" tube ID is a lot larger than my carb intake mount OD. Like 20mm more in diam. So it works more like an airbox. Besides I'm not theorizing on the result. To repeat what I wrote earlier (way back) - it took about 20 mins of on track testing with and without the snorkle setup, and I could not perceive any power diff at any throttle/rpm combo. In fact I did think it was perhaps better with the snorkle in terms of throttle response but I'll run with a "no diff" conclusion. Dyno not required. Response is everything to me. Peak power is neither here or there. Motard = don't care. Besides my engine pumps out way more grunt than me and my bike can handle on any rough track that I get to ride on. I ran with good unifilters in both setups. I use good Twinair oil. Of course the filter on end of the snorkle is a lot bigger than the direct mount filter option. Being more like an airbox, the ribbed duct makes no diff. BTW - the ribbed duct is actually a lot smoother on the inside than outside. My engine is near idiot proof in terms of throttle bog, and I snap the thing open pretty quick and routinely on any lap of any track. Earlier (mk1) I did find that with a intake duct the same size as the carb intake (ie. same size as the largest direct mount filter) that the engine ran way rich (due to the length of the duct). BTW2: With a direct mounted air filter you always "wash" your filter in petrol since the spray comes back out all the time. No such issue with the snorkle.

There is a reason why the aircleaner is usually connected directly to the carby, it has to do with volumetric pressure. If you were to dyno the engine with and without your setup you would notice a drop in power. Also with that ribbed intake it will suffer from 'intake swirl' resulting in variable intake pressure.

If you are using a decent filter, your not going to suck grit through it anyway.
And remember, never wash your filter in petrol as it expands the foam.

 

[pickles09]

yeh i was my uni filter in petrol every ride no probs for a year yet
and like numroe said petrol gets sprayed out the carby intake anyway

 

[wogtaz ryder]

come across this again from your other thread , and thought it was a good thread so i will bump it up

i went trail riding on the weekend was a big event with probably over 200 bikes , i was the only minibike there unfortunately and there was some mighty rivers to be crossed!! almost all of them my bike stalled usually as soon as i got to the other side , then there was a huge one we were coming up to i had no choice but to gun it and try make it the water would of came further up then the hole carby! and it stalled and was pretty much seized instantly (kickstart was stuck solid) so i turned fuel off put it up side down went for a swim , came back still seized up , put it in top gear and rolled the bike back and forward till it unseized and it started right up!! theres a tip if that ever happens

put bike in top gear and roll it back and forward without clutch , happened a few times on my old 140cc.

so yer one of these things would of made me a hell of a lot happier!!!

Cheers.

 

[numroe]

Brave man you are doing a long trail ride on your pitbike. I'm running 18 PSI in my tyres now, and still denting my rims on big tree roots and rocks. Nasty hits though. If hammering it, I cannot usually get the bike to change line quick enough to go around some things. I usually also forget to dial out the compression clickers when riding rough stuff.

I rode on Sunday. Through mud, puddles, sand and all sorts of crap. My big dual stage unifilter sits up under my seat and feeds lots of clean dry air to my carb. Carb deep water crossings are an issue for dry boots/legs and nothing else. Without groomed BMX style tracks to ride on, it's just the only way. When done I pressure wash the whole bike, then disconnect the snorkle in 10 secs and start her up to dry it off. Too easy. As a bonus, no issue with carburetor fuel mist back=spray "washing" the filter either.

Somehow the little OKO26 carb on my pitbike copes much better with it's breather tubes submersed underwater than the Kiehin FCR40 carb does on my big bike. The FCR needs the tubes re-routed up into the airbox.

With the piece of mind of my air duct and my o-ring chain, I can just hammer the throttle on my Lifan 150 and I know that if I shift gears with care, then my bike aint going to die an early death due to the grit and moisture all about. Usually I stop because I want to let me and/or the shock cool down. The engine never stops on me. Love it.

 

[aspect 50s]

air filta trick

na dude get a radiator hose and run it straight from ya carby to ya air filta and have it sitn unda ya seat or behind ya front plate we did it 2 me mates bike and have ya air filta oil up heaps good and ya should b sweat

 

[Andrew Aslan]

Brave man you are doing a long trail ride on your pitbike.

I did a 30 km trail! lol and im only 13 and i was on a 125cc agb 29 and every one else on like big 250/450 Japanese bikes, but i didn't feel to weird on a pit bike because i was with another guy on a pitbike and we both did it all! Im saving for a 250.

haha good fun!

ps. im going to show my dad your Air Filter/Mud Flap and see what he thinks but seem pretty confusing to make for me but when my did see/reads it he will probably understand. Mechanically Minded .

 

[headsmess]

just thought id chuck these pics in of my old elstar blade...or the other name for the tgb i believe...

still think these frames are unbreakable. and me mates are doing way bigger jumps than i used to

for a stock, damn it goes hard never changed anything. except take those ridiculous plastics off straight away... oh, and postie axles instead of chinese cheese axles... and some renthal bars...that i meant for my 650 but ran out of room...

and me mate changed the forks...and left the top engine bolt out for "lightening"