Atomik Link wiring, i'm doing my head in over it.

Shop deals on ebay
Find deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T

tricky1961

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2014
Messages
49
Reaction score
1
Hi,
i'm on the verge of thowing this bike over a cliff,
i'm trying to get the wiring sorted for the elec start, but having no luck/

i can start it by bridging the posts on the solenoid with a screw driver, but need the start button working.
I found a couple broken wires in the start switch so put a new one on it , and still no luck .

so i've done my best in drawing you what i've found in the in the wiring harness, that go's from the solenoid up to the start button n back out now.


This is where the problem is, as the wire go's to a bullet connector and that's where it ends i can't find any plugs for it go into it, so the circuit isn't complete.
the bike is an Atomik link 250 with a zongshen motor , i hope the diagram isn't to confusing for you





cheers, richy
 

Attachments

  • IMG.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 25
Last edited by a moderator:
green with yellow wire coming from the start button needs to go to the + battery terminal

or can you find a wire coming off the ignition switch that is only giving 12v when the ignition is turned on ?
 
Last edited:
You say it starts if you bridge the solenoid terminals. Why not just wire the switch there then?

May not be the most accurate wiring, but if it ultimately works and behaves like it should then surely thats fine?
Wouldn't do it on another bike but these things aren't exactly expensive and well built anyway. May as well get it going that way than to bash your head against a wall
 
^^ i think he want's to wire it up like it would have been originally.
 
i'll have to check the ignition as its falling apart, the goose who taped it up had it sticky taped together and hid it under the tank.

and yeah, that's the only thing I haven't tried yet green/yellow to pos battery.
I just found a new ignition switch with key in all my spares on the racks,
i'm going to put that in, and i'll check for 12v when the ignition is turned on,
this will be the better option as it won't drain the battery, and if any thing goes wrong with the starter it can be turned off when ignition switch is off
 
Last edited by a moderator:
have you tried the solenoid out yet to see if it works ?
i would just touch the yellow w/green wire to the positive on the battery and see if it cranks over
otherwise you may need another solenoid
 
yea I actually got a new remote starter switch and I tried it on it, but the bloody thing still wouldn't play ball.
I wouldn't be bothered with the elec start, but my 14 yr old son can't kick it over as it's got too much compression for him.
and he has got a crook r/h knee, so i need to get it going, lol

its very strange, but i am going to give it another go just incase the remote starter is crook,
i haven't used it for yrs so could have a broken wire in it some where as well, but I would rather get it properly sorted
and then use this option as a last resort, but im not going to let it beat me lol
 
Last edited by a moderator:
yea I haven't tried to put the yellow/green to battery yet n its a brand new solenoid straight out the box
 
ok, that's good, i have had a problem with a few.
if they get wet, they can build up corrosion on the contacts inside
 
you can test the remote starter
put your multimeter on 200 Ohms, and put one lead from the meter to one side of the remote switch,
and the other lead from the meter to the other wire from the switch.
press the switch and you should get a reading on the meter, maybe .4 Ohms? it should be low anyway

it could have dirty contacts inside the switch.
 
thanks for ya help guys,
the remote had dirty contacts.

i got the starter button working it turned out that the green/yellow wire was broken inside,
I did a test on the wire and nothing was coming through,
so I cut it and ran a new bit, low and behold the mongrel burst into life.
its the only thing I didn't check, and when I looked closely at the bit of wire I cut out, its had a hell of knock to it, looks like it been pinched in the top shocky mount at some stage and broke the copper wire inside.

some thing so simple could cause so much drama .


how will be the best way of checking to see if its going to charge the battery?
and how many amp battery would u recommend I use?
i am going to go for a gel battery, not acid, so I can mount it any where or position, its got no lights only the starter.
i'm as happy as a pig in sht lol:thumbup::cheeky-smiley-005:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i'd say both are hell overkill.

I got a 4Ah battery and its perfectly fine on a Zongshen 250cc engine
12V YTX4L BS HP GEL Battery FOR Suzuki 250 XC W 1990 1992 350 450SMR 1990 1996 | eBay

Will give you plenty of cranking time. That said, if you can fit a bigger battery go for it. I was strapped for space and this does just fine. Can stall and start all day without drama

But check the voltage you are getting, one of the 250 bikes here only produces about 12.5v at idle, the other (with the 4AH battery) produces close to 14v so it's charging right off the bat. If you are getting crap voltage from a weak stator or bad regulator, you may want a bigger battery as you'll spend less time in the 'charging' range. Or you know, just fix it :)
 
Last edited:
it is up to you richy what battery you chose.
the CRF230 which your bike is based on runs a 4Ah battery
but i would say that the CRF also has a better quality charge/lighting coil in the stator, a better quality wiring loom, connectors, regulator/rectifier and better switches too.
 
ok thanks space is no probs if I remember correctly to check the charging voltage u put the multimeter on the battery when its running to see wat its getting correct
 
I just found the old part number on the battery n its a 4AH battery ive cleaned up all the earth points and made sure all the conectors are clean and tight fitting,cleaned them out with some swich cleaning erosol fluid my mate kindly donaterd thanks to Telstra lol made sure the rectifier has a good eart point on the frame the only switchs on the bike are the ignition swich,just got a new one from a bike shop I just found up the road 2day that sells china bikes and the kill/start swich and he getting me a new one be here on Thursday juas got to make a new battery carrier n got a mounting point on the l/h side of rear section of frame so I suspect this is prob the orig mounting bracket getting a n new battery this arvo n than all that remains is to check what voltage im getting from the charge coil in the stator if I rember to check it bike has to b running n put the multi meter across the battery posts n see wat volts coming out
 
Yeah,
a fully charged 12v battery will read above 12.6 volts without the engine running.
It should read the same when started, but will increase with the revs, but up to a maximum of 14 volts.
over that and you'll be boiling your battery.
under 12.6 volts at idle will not help the battery life either.
 
tricky1961 said:
what make is your bike with ya 250 zonnga in it qwerty
Click to expand...

Its an Apollo Orion AGB30. The bike itself doesn't really matter, the engines should be the same including wiring. Meaning that if your rectifier and stator are in good nick you should be seeing about 13.5v or more at idle. Don't be alarmed if its not, but raise the revs and see if it does spike to that. If not, check you have the regulator rectifier plugged in right. Mine has 2 of the same plug, one is green the other is white. Can't remember which it goes into but I had to swap it. The previous owner was hopeless so thats likely why it was swapped in the first place

If you really aren't getting any voltage over 12.8v, replace the rectifier. Think they're about $10 on ebay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top