doing head, 54mm zongshen

Find deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
rly??? cuz i though it wouldnt matter, cuz it clamps to the other bit of the spring, so there still be room to get the retainer out??? whats it matter if its in the head or not??? the clamp would have to be able to go in the head or its a shit as design

wire wheel should work in head tho?
 
wire wheel should be fine...

the problem with the spring compressor is the valve spring is inside the head and its designed for external valve springs...once you start pulling your head off youll see what i mean..

the adjustable end goes to the valve head end(in the chamber) and the fork end goes on the spring/retainer. now when you pull the lever its spose to compress the spring but it cant because the head is in the way...
 
ooh ok i c now, theres not enf room there for the spring to compress, cuz theres the forkend does stick down or any thing?
 
or wouldnt know any places that have them for about $50???

any one know how big the springs are, like from side to side??
i could make one with a f clamp like the other guy did
 
Last edited:
nah havent seen any locally, you have to also think about how many times are you going to use it, is buying one just for a one off time going to proof worth it?

the socket job works for most people...

the spring/retainer is 20/22mm OD and you need about a 10mm hole in the center for the valve to go thru..
 
yer thats why i dont wanna buy one for alot,

so pretty much if i get a 14mm socket, cut it pretty much in half, well lil bit more then half, and weld to a f clamp, that should pretty much work, shouldnt it?
 
youll just have to try it, just remember you have to have room for your fingers to get in there to fit them, for removal you can use a magnet pen..
 
ok sweet, well i jst bend in my rear rim so after i get a new one, then ill get the cam and stuff,, no point puting money into a motor that cant go any where

thanks for the help, ill bump thread up after i get parts and ill take pictures of every thing for any one else
 
Here's an old thread with heaps of info ... even links to pics that show how the compressors work ... I bought a few extra of the DRATV type spring compressors ... They're hard to find in Australia ... They work even better than the Kitaco type because there's nothing in the way when you put the locks back in ...

The Kitaco type compressors are ridiculously priced ... you can buy cheaper versions of them from the US but the sellers want to rip you off with high postage fees ($40 USD postage each on top of the item cost last time I checked) ...

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/15571-how-remove-valves.html

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/15571-how-remove-valves-2.html
 
ok thanks for that cactus, didnt find that b4, do you think it wood be easy to jst make a clamp, by cuting a socket up , probby bit more then half half, so cut out about 30% and then weld that onto a F clamp? wat size socket would be best? 14mm? or like a 17mm??
 
Yeah dude you can do that...

I just got a bit of inch steel and cut a 1/3 out of it then just used a f clamp to push it down...

Think i had to put a nut of the valve side so it pressed on it properly but it did the trick and saved my notes for the weekend~
 
No need to use a socket ... you could easily make one from a small "G" clamp by using a length of pipe that has the same O/D as the retainer ... Just grind in on both sides so that you have ample access to get the locks back in place easily ...

Whenever you put locks / collets back in ... tap the retainer to make sure they're seated and locked in properly ... I make sure the end gaps between each lock are even ... IF you don't make sure they're in right , they can pop out after you start the engine ... the valve drops into the cylinder ... and ... bango ...

It has never happened to me but I've seen it happen to others ...

When you port your head ... only remove enough metal off the top of the port and beside the guides to straighten out the flow ... if you go hogging metal off the sides or bottom of the port , you'll lose too much velocity ... Velocity is your throttle response and pulling power ... ie torque ...

Blend and smooth the bowl area into the seat ...

It's best to do it by hand using a round file with the sharp edges on the ends rounded off and sand paper to learn ... You can't mess anything up that way ... or you can buy a cheap pencil grinder ...

Take your time and do it gradually ...
 
ok thanks, with porting i was jst gonna sand a lil bit off unless its kindy smooth, noting too big,

with the clamp, ill jst go buy a cheap socket from supercheap jst to cut and weld, have a look b4 and couldnt find any pipe with a OD of about 22mm,,,

when puting locks/collets in, do they jst clip in, or do you have to place and then release the clamp?

whats do you think the valves Length and Stem Width is??? or do i have to pull it all apart and then measure them up??

and is there any type of seal in there at all??? on the valves i mean
 
IF you're going to use a socket ... it HAS to be a deep socket like a spark plug socket otherwise there's no way in hell you'll be able to use it to get the collets back in ... Maybe Sean01's rag inside the socket idea will work ... but collets have a tendency to tip over on their side ... If only one locks in ... you can be injured if it pops out when you lift the socket way ... Wear safety glasses and a mouth guard if you don't want to end up with one eye OR a chipped tooth dude ... and stuff some cotton wool balls up yur nose holes too ... LOL ...

It depends on what type of head it is ... a small valve head has 66 mm long valves with 5 mm stems ...
Yes there are valve stem seals which are pushed onto the top of the valve guides ... Locks are tapered and so is the retainer ... the valve stem has a groove in the end that matching parts on the locks fit into ... The taper forces the locks hard onto the valve stem and the groove stops them from popping out ...

It would be best if you pull your valves out to measure them ... If your seats and guides are still in good shape ... you mightn't NEED new valves ... It's always best to replace the stem seal tho' ...

I just looked at a few small valve heads that I haven't finished porting yet and they are really hard to get at in the exhaust port ... I found a low volt die grinder that makes the job easier ...
 
ok thanks for that, ill have a crack at taking the head and pulling it off when i got some spare time, hopfully tommorm if not then wednesday tho, hopefully the head gasket will still be useable, ill take pics of the valves and c wat every one thinks, i was jst thinking since im doing all this, might as well do that was well,

i got a spare spark plug socket that ill use, its a 16mm im pretty sure,

with the porting, should i jst get 1500 grit sand paper and then 2000 over it,, was going to do same with intake manifold too
 
pulled head of b4 and will post pictures when i get home from work at about 10, running 23/27 valves, with intake one burned
 
pics,
what do you think of the piston, being so black and that??
IMG_0674.jpg

IMG_0676.jpg

IMG_0671.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top