Hey Bladey...welcome to Hummer family...hope you have as much fun on these bikes as we have been.
Cheers Doc
Going to try the new Hummer G4
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Hey Bladey...welcome to Hummer family...hope you have as much fun on these bikes as we have been.
Cheers Doc
Thanks Doc, I too had the thought of doing what you have done but was worried about all the bleeding to be done.I thought my line cleared the wheel until yesterday where I bounced the bike with all my weight and u guessed it, so I scratched my head for awhile until the lilltle light came on.Allied....what model air filter is that?...is it just a 43mm pod filter? Great solution...I think you may had beaten Rod to the bar on that one
Archie.....Xlnt work mate...that looks heaps better. I wish I had that info before I did mine. I took off my line and turned it upside down. Seems to be the solution as well, but then I had to bleed the brakes...and yep you guessed it...more drama.
The bleed nipple on the rear brakes is at the lowest point of the caliper so the air travels away from it. You have to take off the caliper to bleed it.....took me a while to figure that one too....this bike is a real challenge I tell you.
Thanks Doc, I too had the thought of doing what you have done but was worried about all the bleeding to be done.I thought my line cleared the wheel until yesterday where I bounced the bike with all my weight and u guessed it, so I scratched my head for awhile until the lilltle light came on.
If nothing else this bike will keep my brain active...boy I love a challenge but this thing is more time consuming than kids.
Anyways its great to ride in the rough stuff...kinda like a BMW...nice and soft suspension.
Anyone have C spanner that fits the shock....or a solution for adjusting the pre load?
Found a new parts supplier as well:
eBay Australia Shop - factory imports parts: Parts, E-Scooters, Bikes
Ciao Doc
Hi Cibbs
Bought a C spanner form my moto shop to adjust the suspension.
Got it home and found there wasn't room to use it without taking half the bike to bits.
In the end I used a flat head punch and plastic faced hammer.
First I released the locking ring at the top - then tightened up the bottom ring.
I marked the ring with a black marker at the edge so I could count the turns.
The spring increases resistance real quick - so depending on how heavy you are, two complete turns is max.
You need to set free sag to about 30mm and rider sag to around 110 - 120mm
Hope that helps.
Bought a C spanner form my moto shop to adjust the suspension.
Got it home and found there wasn't room to use it without taking half the bike to bits.
In the end I used a flat head punch and plastic faced hammer.
First I released the locking ring at the top - then tightened up the bottom ring.
I marked the ring with a black marker at the edge so I could count the turns.
The spring increases resistance real quick - so depending on how heavy you are, two complete turns is max.
You need to set free sag to about 30mm and rider sag to around 110 - 120mm
Hope that helps.
Yes Doc its just fit so good. I cut down a piece of plastic pipe from the plumbing shop and pushed it into the air induction tube. Nice and tight fit. oiled up the pod,make sure you dont fit it straight away. What a mess!!!. Take your pod to the plumbers so you get the right size. Works great and once you put the cover on no one would know.
Heres 3 more photos.
First is the neat 16mm tube plugs I purchased from Bunnings.
You can see the top 2 fitted - and I also fitted 2 more underneath the rear of the sump where the tube runs out.
The second photo shows my rear brake line - and why it won't catch on the wheel.
First, the line is longer and snakes out.
Second, my retaining clip has been fitted level with the tyre - so holds the line away from the potential problem.
Last photo is my rear whell set-up.
As you can see, the wheel will not contact the muffler - irrespective of wheel travel. I believe this is to do with the positioning and angle of the muffler bracket.
I'm going to take my time over the air filter box. The air filter is part of the fuel/air delivery system and can affect the performance of the carbie.
I think the snorkel conector might actually be restricting air flow - plus I want to get an oiled foam filter in their which is an effective filter - but at the same time allows good ait flow.
Cheers boys.
First is the neat 16mm tube plugs I purchased from Bunnings.
You can see the top 2 fitted - and I also fitted 2 more underneath the rear of the sump where the tube runs out.
The second photo shows my rear brake line - and why it won't catch on the wheel.
First, the line is longer and snakes out.
Second, my retaining clip has been fitted level with the tyre - so holds the line away from the potential problem.
Last photo is my rear whell set-up.
As you can see, the wheel will not contact the muffler - irrespective of wheel travel. I believe this is to do with the positioning and angle of the muffler bracket.
I'm going to take my time over the air filter box. The air filter is part of the fuel/air delivery system and can affect the performance of the carbie.
I think the snorkel conector might actually be restricting air flow - plus I want to get an oiled foam filter in their which is an effective filter - but at the same time allows good ait flow.
Cheers boys.
Attachments
Another thing Doc - if you want to harden up the front suspesion a little - you can take a look at changing the fork oil.
Castol does the good stuff here as well - and I'd consider Castrol fork oil 5 or 10 - dependig on how hard you want it.
Mate by the time we finish - I recon we could call ourselves China bike consultants!!
The good thing is though, when you want to replace this or that part - it costs you only a couple of dollars here and a couple of dollars there.
My mate just bought a new muffler for his Triumph Bonnerville - and it cost more than my whole bloody bike!!
Once I've tested this bike to destruction - I've seen another that grabs my fancy.
This truly does have the Zongshen 250cc OHC engine - and I'm just asking the seller if it's available with bigger wheels. The frame certainly looks to have the goods!
The link is below.
SDB ProX 250CC DIRT BIKE TRAIL MOTORBIKE BIKE DIRTBIKE - eBay Other Trail Bikes, Trail Bikes, Motorcycles, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Jan-08 18:08:46 AEDST)
The cool trip with all these Chinas is the price!!
I'll see which one I like best - and hang the other over my bar as a conversation piece lol.
talk to you soon!
Just wanted too say the level of info on this thread is a credit to you guys ... I don't know much about these things as they are not really my cup of tea (they'll peel me off my yz 2 banger one day )
but alot of crew seem to be buyin them ....so thanks guys ....just goes to show what a little knowledge and effort can do.
Thanks again ride on boys ya killin it.
) but alot of crew seem to be buyin them ....so thanks guys ....just goes to show what a little knowledge and effort can do.
Thanks again ride on boys ya killin it.
Thanks Dread - you'll have to buy a Hummer (or Kuda Pro as they're now called) from Atomik and join in - that's if after reading this thread, you still think they're a good buy lol.
Actually they're fun to work on and will perform surprisingly well once the work is done. They're also cheap to buy and maintain.
Boys - I had a look at the air filter today and decided to take a more minimalist approach to Allied.
Comments and work done are as follows:
1. There is a small gap between the metal screen filter and the Carbie air inlet pipe - which allowed me to put some thin bolts, nuts and washers through the joining flanges and make them a tighter (dust resistant) fit.
2. I had a look at the snorkel hole at the top of the filter box and decided it was too small. It should be big enough to allow air flow totally unhindered - which means it has to be at least as big as the outlet - so I enlarged it a bit.
3. I replaced the shitty and badly cut cheap foam with a high quality filter foam, cut to an exact fit. I then used Bel-Ray air filter oil (nice and sticky) to oil it.
4. I replaced the shitty filter box screws (which cut their way loose in 10 seconds) with slightly longer and fatter self tappers. This holds the box cover a lot more securely.
Fingers crossed - it should filter well and give me a bit more power & throttle response.
Actually they're fun to work on and will perform surprisingly well once the work is done. They're also cheap to buy and maintain.
Boys - I had a look at the air filter today and decided to take a more minimalist approach to Allied.
Comments and work done are as follows:
1. There is a small gap between the metal screen filter and the Carbie air inlet pipe - which allowed me to put some thin bolts, nuts and washers through the joining flanges and make them a tighter (dust resistant) fit.
2. I had a look at the snorkel hole at the top of the filter box and decided it was too small. It should be big enough to allow air flow totally unhindered - which means it has to be at least as big as the outlet - so I enlarged it a bit.
3. I replaced the shitty and badly cut cheap foam with a high quality filter foam, cut to an exact fit. I then used Bel-Ray air filter oil (nice and sticky) to oil it.
4. I replaced the shitty filter box screws (which cut their way loose in 10 seconds) with slightly longer and fatter self tappers. This holds the box cover a lot more securely.
Fingers crossed - it should filter well and give me a bit more power & throttle response.
Weegee
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Hey rodbox look at the photos carefully on that ProX there is only one photo containing the OHC photos all the other photos are of the pushrod engine! I would still ask for confirmation from the seller regarding this matter to make sure you are getting what you pay for.
Weegee
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Oh and just to keep you all informed i have submitted a warranty claim regarding my deflated front forks i am waiting to see what happens and to see if Atomik stands by their warranty policy, oh and another thing i carried out the valve adjustment on my bike and like you guys said they are just a noisy engine, i adjusted to spec and when the bike got hot, again comes in the tapping noise oh well if i keep good oil up to it what can go worng huh (famous last words i know).
C&C got back to me and said the bike is not available with the larger wheels. This means it is essentially a 3/4 size bike - so I won't be buying one anyway - but thanks for the observation.
Meanwhile - I took the hummer out yesterday and it went really well. With the bigger sprocket, I have found it necessary to remove the chain roller support underneath the swing arm. The angle it put on the chain with the bigger sprocket was too severe - and you couln't get a consistant tension on the chain between 1. bike weight, 2. ridden weight and 3 back wheel off the ground.
Removing the chain support roller fixed the problem though - and chain tension is now pretty good in all swing arm positions.
Meanwhile - I took the hummer out yesterday and it went really well. With the bigger sprocket, I have found it necessary to remove the chain roller support underneath the swing arm. The angle it put on the chain with the bigger sprocket was too severe - and you couln't get a consistant tension on the chain between 1. bike weight, 2. ridden weight and 3 back wheel off the ground.
Removing the chain support roller fixed the problem though - and chain tension is now pretty good in all swing arm positions.
Weegee
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Hey has anyone bought anything from that ebay seller in Philippines I think, selling the hotted up Zongshen engines/parts yet? I was looking at the site and drooling. The prices seem to be really good value as well which is a nice supprise for something in this industry.
Weegie,
I bought my 16 tooth and 56 tooth sprockets from those guys in the Philippines.
They are very knowledgable blokes and get back to you on technical questions really fast.
Their products are good quality and good value - but being in the Philippines, shipping to Aust costs a bit more than local e-bay purchases.
I've explained to them the problem with getting the EVO II engine instead of the OHC - and they are looking into whether I could just drop one of their OHC race engines into my frame.
waiting on reply and will pass on the info...
I bought my 16 tooth and 56 tooth sprockets from those guys in the Philippines.
They are very knowledgable blokes and get back to you on technical questions really fast.
Their products are good quality and good value - but being in the Philippines, shipping to Aust costs a bit more than local e-bay purchases.
I've explained to them the problem with getting the EVO II engine instead of the OHC - and they are looking into whether I could just drop one of their OHC race engines into my frame.
waiting on reply and will pass on the info...
FirsT TimeR
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Hey fellas sorry to intrude, but i to also have a hummer and just been keeping tabs on this page with what i needed to do with my bike and im havin a ball with my bike(Thanks for the usefull info). still in the running in process and it does test the patience as i lke to ride hard, im up to about 250km already. how long a ride do you go for when you do ride it?? i just dont know how longs enough for a ride. cheers
FirsT TimeR,
You can open her up a bit after 500kms - but don't thrash it until 1000K's
Service at 300,600 & 1000K's - thats full oil change plus clean the oil drain filter & internal oil screen.
Also be sure to grease all the pivot bearings on the rear suspension, before you do anything fancy terrain wise.
Tip....
Put the bike on a stand - then chock the rear wheel until the pivot pins slide out easily for greasing.
You can open her up a bit after 500kms - but don't thrash it until 1000K's
Service at 300,600 & 1000K's - thats full oil change plus clean the oil drain filter & internal oil screen.
Also be sure to grease all the pivot bearings on the rear suspension, before you do anything fancy terrain wise.
Tip....
Put the bike on a stand - then chock the rear wheel until the pivot pins slide out easily for greasing.
Guys,
Received the following answer fro Batacan:
Dear rodbox5,
Yes it helps! You have a 250cc pushrod engine with a 67mm piston.
We have a stage IV Upgrade for that engine that will upgrade it to 266cc's! The STAGE III engine is basically a HO high output 250cc engine with upgraded clutches, flywheel, piston (flattop), rings, cylinder head and related parts.
Best Regards, Batacan Corp
- bataycan
Received the following answer fro Batacan:
Dear rodbox5,
Yes it helps! You have a 250cc pushrod engine with a 67mm piston.
We have a stage IV Upgrade for that engine that will upgrade it to 266cc's! The STAGE III engine is basically a HO high output 250cc engine with upgraded clutches, flywheel, piston (flattop), rings, cylinder head and related parts.
Best Regards, Batacan Corp
- bataycan
Wildman
Active Member
Pic of my motor,looks a bit different to some posted earlier.
Last edited:
Weegee
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Nice that is a OHC engine enjoy,
Hey firsttimer i have been going for 3-4 hr rides and she handles well (except for the fork thing) but on those rides the oil gets pretty black so i have been changing the oil after every ride and checking the screen and i am happy to say that nothing is ever in it.
And RODBOX did they state the numbers for these engines? what HP/KW are they putting out and are they getting close to Japanese numbers? i think that would be good keeping up with a XR250 easily on a brand new bike costing a 1/8 of what the XR cost
Hey firsttimer i have been going for 3-4 hr rides and she handles well (except for the fork thing) but on those rides the oil gets pretty black so i have been changing the oil after every ride and checking the screen and i am happy to say that nothing is ever in it.
And RODBOX did they state the numbers for these engines? what HP/KW are they putting out and are they getting close to Japanese numbers? i think that would be good keeping up with a XR250 easily on a brand new bike costing a 1/8 of what the XR cost
