In need of help re:broke oil drain plug bit

[jordzan]

gday i turned my bike over this morning and let it warm up abit so could do an oil change ... i had my socket wrench on the magnetic oil plug and accidentlly gave it not even a quater turn "tigther" and it just split .... didnt know what happened at first until some of the broken bits fell out.
am i looking at having to replace the engine centre case peice or something ??? or is it new engine time or what you fellas think?? no idea what to do here. appreciate ure help.

 

[SnItChY]

You need a new center case my friend , also a gasket kit ,thats bad luck bud , i cant see an easy fix to that

 

[TyD]

put the bolt in the hole then devcon it up, just need to lay the bike down to drain the oil,

but in all seriousness thats bad luck.. very bad, got to hate the coke cans china's are made from.

 

[sean01]

yep new case needed...
i wouldnt recommend any dodgy repairs as you'll end up skipping oil changes because its a pain in the a$$.

let us know what you end up doin tho...lol i need a new parts engine...

 

[motoluver]

Ive had this happen to my suzuki rm125 before. I took it to the welders and they welded the piece back on. Then all you need to do is get the hole helicoiled.

 

[jordzan]

i thought that would be the case ... i need hug lol poor bikes barely broken in. unfortunatlly it wasent really a clean break, its in about 4 bits ..... is this abit much for devcon?

is this dhz upgrade the same centre peice im looking for? cant tell from the pic if it's the middle section with drain plug or not. would be good to put something stronger in if possible and other upgraded parts cant hurt.
DHZ Mini Moto - Dirtmax YX 160cc 150cc Engine Bottom End Upgrade Kit

any other suggestions for places that might have centre case and gasket kit or different upgrade kits than dhz has??
how hard a job would you guys say getting a new centre case in is ? not having much luck in the motor tutorial section or youtube finding any information or how too's.
does the head/cylinder have to come off or can you come from the rear of the engine? will i need any special tools (i have the fly wheel & clutch basket ones) .... and anything else you think i shoud know or tips would be superr helpfull.
cheers guys.

 

[DvDRip]

either new center case (better be good at engine mechanics)

or plug it up and see how ya go, just tip bike right over and drain oil out the filling hole

ok you'll need flywheel/clutch puller, cir-clip pliers gaskets and the usual spanners etc.
it's pretty simple just take your time and remember exactly where everything goes back on, removing the head and barrel is the easiest part.
there's guides on the site in the tute section for:
removing head/barrel.
removing clutch side, slinger, clutch and kick gears
and I think BD made one for splitting the cases
also in sean01's sig you'll see a scribeD page on splitting cases

how often did you ride your bike without the bashplate? they're not just there for looks you know

 

[jordzan]

will probably keep it for myself if thats the case sean ... ure first inline tho if i dont.

it's in about 4 bits dont think you could weld it back together ... dodgiest metal ever wtf.

 

[jordzan]

thanks dv, figured there was stuff around that would help just wasent sure what it was. will definatlly take my time and lots and lots of pictures for reference.
never riden without the bash plate, took it off when i busted the plug hole.

 

[pbk]

i got mate who had the same thing happen but on the head of 155z.

it was one of the exhaust bolts and just popped a chunk of the head off....tho the head was made of very light alloy i though these cases had more strenth than that

 

[SnItChY]

i got mate who had the same thing happen but on the head of 155z.

it was one of the exhaust bolts and just popped a chunk of the head off....tho the head was made of very light alloy i though these cases had more strenth than that

none off the parts are strong there all cast , hence never over tighten and use locktight

 

[motoluver]

I still think you should take it to a welder and get them to weld something up and then helicoil the hole.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Matified on PM said YX's have junko porous case castings ... that's why Pitster scrapped 'em and went to Zongshen Z155's ...

Atomik Motosports should step up and help you fix it ... or is it gunna be another "Buy from Atomik ... go to DHZ for help and after sales service" situation ...

The plug boss should not have disintegrated that easily ... You'd expect it to either split in one place if you were swinging off the spanner ... or for the thread to strip first ... The thread being stronger than the case is NOT good ... and is definitely a manufacturing / porous casting fault ...

When you replace one centre case half ... you have to measure the distance from the parting line surface to the inner edge of the bearings on the new case half ... then compare those measurements to the original case in order to get the tranny end play set right ... If your tranny is already the upgraded needle bearing type you should be OK ... But if it's the ball bearing type then you could be in for further trouble ... There's older threads on the subject if you do a search ...

 

[bulldog93]

I say get them from DHZ. Here is the tut I did:
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/mini-tutorials-how-s/24595-tear-down-bike-parts-completly.html (From page 3 and onwards)

And here are some others:
- YX140 Engine Split
- Lifan 1P52FMI engine exploded diagram

It's fairly easy to do your self with out pics. All you have to remember is where everything was. You do have to take off the head and barrel.

Good luck to you. Keep all parts clean.

 

[jordzan]

Thanks heaps for all the help so far .. awsome info and tutorials, learning soo much.

What is the parting line surface?? Not having any joy searching for these older threads on the subject sorry.

This is the casing i ended up buying.
NEW YX 150CC 160CC ENGINE CENTER CASING - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 30-Jan-10 21:49:03 AEDST)

Is it wearth spending the 150 on the japan needle bearing upgrade while the engines going to be apart anyway?? Gathering it's more of a relability upgrade than anything?

Do i need some sort of gasket silicon for when im putting the engine back together?? If so it would have to be high temp right?

Should i be doing things up to a torque specification?? No engine torque settings in the book ... should i stick to a certain ft/p so i dont overtighten and crack the casing again ??

Should i use locktite at all while im rebuilding?? noticed dvrdrip doesnt on his starter gears rebuild.

Sorry for so many questions ... alot to learn atm

 

[DvDRip]

I use a little bit of medium strength locktight on engine internal bolts just to be safe.
I don't use torque wrench but there is spec s out there somewhere

 

[bulldog93]

I thightened them up as hard as I could and left it. I did use the silicon ( gasket glue ) stuff but I was told not to use it and get the right gasket for it:
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/ask-tech-masters/25633-engine-casing-flywheel-crank-poblems.html

Stop using that silicon sh*t between the centre cases ... don't use that crap at all !!!!!!!!! Thoroughly clean all traces of that garbage out of the motor ... Use the proper gasket ... The only gasket sealant that's any good is non hardening aviation gasket sealant in conjunction with a gasket ... and do not attempt to press the crank main bearings or you'll stuff the crank up ... it's easy to cock the two halves out of alignment so that the crank ends develop run out ... then you'll wonder why it snaps on you ...

To work out how much to shim the tranny you'd need inside mic's and a vernier gauge or outside mic ... The simplest way is to assemble the tranny as stock then check the amount of end float with a dial indicator on the end of each shaft ... A centre case gasket MUST be used or the cases will crush in and side load the bearing ball races ...

 

[jordzan]

thanks fellas, got some aviation stuff to try out and some more blue thread lock ...
started pulling the engine apart this afternoon but no matter what gear im in i cant
crack the two cam bolts, it just goes through its cycle.
cant find it atm but im sure someone sais in a tutorial you may need to use a screwdriver to help stop it..
is this right, really worried about damaging cam sprocket teeth.

 

[DvDRip]

I lean a flat screwdriver on the gear shifter shaft, and line it up with the pickup sensor on the flywheel, it's impossible the engine to turn over like this and the cam bolts come off easy

 

[jordzan]

do i need to get a cover or something off to get at the gear shifter shaft/flywheel? i get the procedure just not where the bits are ... sorrry for the noobness