In need of help re:broke oil drain plug bit

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For cam sprocket bolts I use a socket wrench held at an angle that's parallel to a line drawn thru the centreline of the sprocket ... then give the wrench handle a sharp rap (anti clockwise) with a length of wood or my right palm and they come loose pretty easily ...

I don't hold the flywheel because you could possibly stretch the cam chain doing it that way ... I most certainly don't like the screw driver in the flywheel idea ... LOL ... You can buy a cheap strap wrench or use an oil filter wrench to hold flywheels ...

The parting line is the gasket surface ... ie where two parts are joined ... Two metal rulers are OK to use to measure the depths ...

If you were going to use the needle bearing upgrade you would have had to buy the complete kit off DHZ since the RHS case half is different than the standard ball bearing case ...
 
Cactus Jack said:
I don't hold the flywheel because you could possibly stretch the cam chain doing it that way ... I most certainly don't like the screw driver in the flywheel idea ... LOL ... You can buy a cheap strap wrench or use an oil filter wrench to hold flywheels ...
Click to expand...
lol ok won't be doing that anymore,
I guess rattle gun would get the bolts out pretty good yea?
 
nice one just got them undone ..... i have a set of those T handle bike sockets and gave it a few taps with the wood and bills my uncle. thanks fellas.
 
Rattle guns work on the same principal only they give a series of closely spaced sharp raps ...
 
Sorry fellas im back again ... same sort of problem, cant undo the clutch bolt with the specialty tool as the inner part of the clutch just spins. I dont have a rattle gun or anything like that .... been trying the old wood and give it a wack but having no luck. any ideas??
 
i got the washer and spring on ... it seems to have stopped the outer part of the clutch spinning but the engine still cycles through? do i need an oil filter wrench or someting like this to hold the outside of the clutch??
 
I put an allen key in the gears between clutch and crank, just don't use impact while doing this, and don't use a screwdriver the gears can snap the tip off a screwdriver.
 
jordzan said:
Thanks heaps for all the help so far .. awsome info and tutorials, learning soo much.:D

What is the parting line surface?? Not having any joy searching for these older threads on the subject sorry.

This is the casing i ended up buying.
NEW YX 150CC 160CC ENGINE CENTER CASING - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 30-Jan-10 21:49:03 AEDST)

Is it wearth spending the 150 on the japan needle bearing upgrade while the engines going to be apart anyway?? Gathering it's more of a relability upgrade than anything?

Do i need some sort of gasket silicon for when im putting the engine back together?? If so it would have to be high temp right?

Should i be doing things up to a torque specification?? No engine torque settings in the book ... should i stick to a certain ft/p so i dont overtighten and crack the casing again ??

Should i use locktite at all while im rebuilding?? noticed dvrdrip doesnt on his starter gears rebuild.

Sorry for so many questions ... alot to learn atm :p
Click to expand...

^^^^^link above^^^^^ im pretty sure this is the needle roller case you say you just bought..

it doesnt come with the bearing or the updated counter shaft..
i purchased a lifan 150 case from Just Ride to replace a yx150(daytona style) case and he couldnt even supply the bearing. (oh and no the case didnt fit)
wats the good of case with no bearing?
+ side he refunded straight up...

i also emailed ken from DHZ and he couldnt supply the bearing only either..

do the job once and do it right... buy the upgraded kit from DHZ...

and as for all your bolt problems... do yourself a favor and get a rattle gun..
 
thanks fellas ... can you not press the bearing out and into the new case ? i stupidly bought that just ride one thinking the dhz upgrade was a different side and i needed both the kit and the justride centre peice ... arghh
the bearings in the original cracked centre casing has japan writen on it ... does this mean it's jap type or just that its manufactured there? ....first two pics below

i was also hoping to ask what ive done with the kick start acembelly/spring etc .... it just came off with some playing, not sure how i did it ... is it setup the correct way for when i rebuild or do i need to flip round if that makes any sense? ... last two pics

Picture226-1.jpg
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Picture228-1.jpg


Picture227.jpg
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Picture229.jpg
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Is the case part from the DHZ upgrade kit the same as the one i cracked, with the oil drain plug hole??
from the pics it looks like it might be the otherside of the casing?

do i just need to grab the dirtmax upgrade kit and i should be set??

thanks for all your help so far guys ... would of been stuffed without it!
 
you my friend are very lucky...
this is an atomik engine right?

there not suppose to have the updated cases in them... but obviously they do.

the case you bought from JR should be fine..the oil drain bolt is in it yeah?

just press all the bearings out and press them back in the new case...

and yeah the kick starter mech can be a little tricky...
 
yepp it's an atomik engine from a reign bigfoot and the JR case has the drain bolt. i knew some good news had to come at some stage wooot woot.
any tips re the kick starter mech, or is it a matter of fiddeling around with it once the centre case peice is back on?
 
yeah kick starter mech is very hard to explain, but basically you just have to fiddle with it and get the return spring strong enough...

sus it out a bit and learn how it works then you will understand it
 
jordzan could you do me a favor?
can you tell me the engine number on your motor? it's printed on the left hand side case near the footpeg, it'll be something like ip60fmj.
and does your motor have a heavy flywheel or the smaller lightweight type?
and what year did you buy the bike?
I just got an atomik 160cc motor from a nitrous, and wanna see if it's the same as yours.

cheers mate, sorry for all the random questions just really wanna know
 
thanks sean your a champ mate.

nps dvdrip man, glad to finally be able to help you out. i got it last year late july i think.
it's got - IP60FMK ... the flywheel sits behind the clutch right, to push the plates together? still abit confused by the whole clutch department. hopefully these pics help.
Picture213.jpg

Picture215.jpg
 
awsome 1P60FMK is same as mine looking good so far, flywheel is the large rotating mass over the stator, ummm pics will help here

on the left hand side of the motor under the cover near the sprocket that's where the flywheel is.
it'll either look like this: NEW OUTER ROTOR STATOR & MAGNETO, SEALS GPX 125CC 160CC - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 20-Jan-10 16:51:40 AEDST)

or this: MAGNETO STATOR ASSEMBLY 140CC LIFAN ENGINE - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 22-Jan-10 00:03:15 AEDST)

or it could possibly have one like this which is what's advertized on the reigne ad, but I doubt it: INNER ROTOR KIT.. Pit Bike Thumpster..110cc - 160cc - eBay Other Makes, Bike Parts, Motorcycle Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 21-Jan-10 22:36:06 AEDST)

first link is lightweight style
 
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ah well fook me you have an IRK! my motor was advertized as ORK but it came with a heavy flywheel lol

you've been a great help thanks mate, now I just gotta pull my clutch off and see if I have a needle roller bearing :/
 
nps at all man. heheh that's a harsh job just to check something, i hope theres some good news in there for yah though.
 
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