MITTZ
Well-Known Member
yeah, it looks sweet with the green and black
January Fifty of the Month
- Thread starter coolmodee01
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Yer but that ones the best thumpy they made and it had a few extra mods on it when he baught it, they're usually around 3g.
Sidney
Well-Known Member
i agree genuine thumpstars are worth the money. My mates 70 keeps up with my MSO lifan 138 around a track until i hit 4th pinned because his only has 3 gears
motoXXX, michelin man, MITTZ Cheers guys thanks for the comments
It is for sale if anyone is interested
Boys Wit Da Toys
Well-Known Member
No....... First you win the F.O.T.M comp then you can say,
For sale is my award winning pitbike. If your interested................
I would have to admit coreys bike deserves this month. Its not the money or the bike setup or the looks (stock geometry is not even close to good 'tard setup IMO) but the daytona 119 in a 125 class limit would be hard to beat for performance and the braking setup is inovative and is the best mod on any of this months bikes.
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corey58
Well-Known Member
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lol not good geometry it sure beats any other bike i have ever riden. u must came up and show me with im doing wrong
Its not what your doing wrong, its just a lack of detailed frame design going into Chinese bikes. Any other make of bike is not immune either. Why do you think the biggest aftermarket industry in the world next to engine building is frame and chassis building? To improve every aspect of the setup for the type of racing to be done.
How well do you think these 12" wheeled bikes very similar in size to a minimotard, handle on kart tracks?
The Metrakit Concept :: Metrakit :: Australian Mini GP series
A heck of a lot better than your 'vert I can assure you. If you look at them in detail and note the major differences in geometry I won't have to explain why.
Now I will give you a shortcut to getting your bike setup to be fast.
If you can get good level side on shots of your bike and one you would like to copy geometry from, then just whack them into a photoshopping program or even paint, and make them semi translucent and drag big lines through the fork centreline, swingarm centreline, and shock centreline. Also you can pretty accurately measure to scale in the program and determine and mark wheelbase, seatheight, handlebar height and rake etc.
For eg. to get a good starting point for my dirt bikes, I decided Honda may have had a good setup with latest crf 150. I modified a frame to exact same geometry and found the setup to be very good on a pitbike after getting the suspension set for the angles I copied. It took six months the first time to refine that setup. Now that bike looks the same as any other to most, but to ride is just a pleasure and its easy to go quick. Another thing you notice is that you can ride much longer without fatigue, no more monkey butt and things don't seem to break as often...these principles are nothing new. Minimotard is very young ATM and many guys are putting roadrubber on their dirtbikes and having a whirl, so it is easy to be competative in this climate. Wait till a few start to really setup their bikes well and noone will even be in the hunt unless you start with these basic mods.
How well do you think these 12" wheeled bikes very similar in size to a minimotard, handle on kart tracks?
The Metrakit Concept :: Metrakit :: Australian Mini GP series
A heck of a lot better than your 'vert I can assure you. If you look at them in detail and note the major differences in geometry I won't have to explain why.
Now I will give you a shortcut to getting your bike setup to be fast.
If you can get good level side on shots of your bike and one you would like to copy geometry from, then just whack them into a photoshopping program or even paint, and make them semi translucent and drag big lines through the fork centreline, swingarm centreline, and shock centreline. Also you can pretty accurately measure to scale in the program and determine and mark wheelbase, seatheight, handlebar height and rake etc.
For eg. to get a good starting point for my dirt bikes, I decided Honda may have had a good setup with latest crf 150. I modified a frame to exact same geometry and found the setup to be very good on a pitbike after getting the suspension set for the angles I copied. It took six months the first time to refine that setup. Now that bike looks the same as any other to most, but to ride is just a pleasure and its easy to go quick. Another thing you notice is that you can ride much longer without fatigue, no more monkey butt and things don't seem to break as often...these principles are nothing new. Minimotard is very young ATM and many guys are putting roadrubber on their dirtbikes and having a whirl, so it is easy to be competative in this climate. Wait till a few start to really setup their bikes well and noone will even be in the hunt unless you start with these basic mods.
MasterSpoon
Well-Known Member
thats pretty interesting Mack and I had not thought of doing anything like that. May I ask what bike you copied aswel?
Corey nearly got my vote but then I thought about it and was like no way am i wasting a vote on the biggest show pony bike on here...seriously just 2 spend that much on a china bike is stupid. And if ya gonna go and buy a Honda Crf engine case wouldn't u go and get different graphics...so in the end Mack got my vote...go Ebay
corey58
Well-Known Member
lol it jst an show pony bike??? i would love to race u then tell me it only an show pony
pascal125
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Mate, your bike is nice...But for 17 thousand dollars you can buy a ktm 2 stroke or something like an RM250 and shuck on HEAPS of other stuff, either of the bikes would dominate your chinese pitbike no matter how many mods it has.
Nice bike, but for 17k its ridiculous, throw in 5k and and u could buy a brand new hayabusa, r1 or gsxr1000.....
Most people don't put close to that in a crf50, and i thought people spending 3k on a crf50 was strange so you can see how i feel when i see some guy spending 17k on a china.......
Nice bike, but for 17k its ridiculous, throw in 5k and and u could buy a brand new hayabusa, r1 or gsxr1000.....
Most people don't put close to that in a crf50, and i thought people spending 3k on a crf50 was strange so you can see how i feel when i see some guy spending 17k on a china.......
SnItChY
Well-Known Member
nice bike corey ,dont worrie bout the haters
i would have voted your way but the bike was to clean and im yet to see it run IE vid or pics ,i do understand there comeing when u get to race her shoud be good ,looking forward to it
17k wow not my kettle of fish but what ever floats ya boat mate well done
i would have voted your way but the bike was to clean and im yet to see it run IE vid or pics ,i do understand there comeing when u get to race her shoud be good ,looking forward to it
17k wow not my kettle of fish but what ever floats ya boat mate well done
For which bike?
MasterSpoon
Well-Known Member
ahh sorry Mack should have been more specific
for the minimotard, the one you have here
what bike setup did you base it off?
for the minimotard, the one you have here
what bike setup did you base it off?
Well none actually for this one, as there are not many good minimotards where I know they are great setup to copy from. But know from experience and what is required to go fast on the tar. There are simple things you could do to improve your bike easily if that is what you are wondering.
Look to lower the bike by mounting shorter shock or mount relocation. The Steep swingarm angle used for dirt needs to be levelled out and the shock mounted straighter for more linear stroke. The shock also can be firmed with heavier spring and valving and/or oil weight changed to slow dampning. The forks get same traetment and are run up the clamps to the rake or height you want. Some even cut length off the forks to shorten them.
The rear stiffened up to take all flex out if possible. This can be done by having twin bearing setup and if the pivot tube is undersize or flimsy have it cut out and a big solid one that is very tight between the bearings welded in if need be. An Astyle swingarm is also going to be stiffer than mono style.
Get rid of the tall seat foam and use a dipped one to get your arse down over that rear wheel. Also the rear subframe on many bikes, especially SDG style frames that are everywhere now, stick up too far into the air and not only look stupid, but also are bad for this kind of setup. You can easily cut a piece out of the lower arms and reweld. Many are also off centre so you can at this time get your weight centred properly. You could after getting the ride height down even switch to lower bars at this stage.
Narrow and raise your pegs so they do not restrict your ability to lay the bike over as far as you want.
Improve the front braking. Big single disk is best.
If you can for ultimate setup, source wider triple clamps to run nice strong and wide rims, preferably magnesium alloy. Get a good set of 110/90 or better tyres on them.
You get started along these lines and you already know you'll be throwing the bike into corners and dragging that knee everywhere.
Look to lower the bike by mounting shorter shock or mount relocation. The Steep swingarm angle used for dirt needs to be levelled out and the shock mounted straighter for more linear stroke. The shock also can be firmed with heavier spring and valving and/or oil weight changed to slow dampning. The forks get same traetment and are run up the clamps to the rake or height you want. Some even cut length off the forks to shorten them.
The rear stiffened up to take all flex out if possible. This can be done by having twin bearing setup and if the pivot tube is undersize or flimsy have it cut out and a big solid one that is very tight between the bearings welded in if need be. An Astyle swingarm is also going to be stiffer than mono style.
Get rid of the tall seat foam and use a dipped one to get your arse down over that rear wheel. Also the rear subframe on many bikes, especially SDG style frames that are everywhere now, stick up too far into the air and not only look stupid, but also are bad for this kind of setup. You can easily cut a piece out of the lower arms and reweld. Many are also off centre so you can at this time get your weight centred properly. You could after getting the ride height down even switch to lower bars at this stage.
Narrow and raise your pegs so they do not restrict your ability to lay the bike over as far as you want.
Improve the front braking. Big single disk is best.
If you can for ultimate setup, source wider triple clamps to run nice strong and wide rims, preferably magnesium alloy. Get a good set of 110/90 or better tyres on them.
You get started along these lines and you already know you'll be throwing the bike into corners and dragging that knee everywhere.
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