Kill switch conversion, Need help

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I think it's dangerous to have no kill switch. Especially if it's a semi auto because it has no clutch. What happens if there is an emergency or you cant stop or something?


Oh and I work at a wreckers and I am going to see if I can get one for my bike. :)
 
I'm with you sidney, handy to have when that throttle gets jammed open and you want it dead quick.
 
Hmmm I remember the day my throttle got stuck on my rm125. Imagine riding around in rough bush thrashing around in 4th gear... come to a corner and you back off the throttle but the throttle is stuck wide open... 4th gear pinned... I went straight through the bush missing a couple of trees and then my front tyre hit a gully and the next second I'm in the air doing front flips... Landed on my head scary shit you have no time to think because its happening so fast.
 
thats sounds pretty gnarly man,i probally would of just ghostied the suzi into the bush at the price of some new levers ,plastics etc.Anyway excause my lack of heat shrinking knowledge as i've never done anything with it ,i just have a few questions about the whole thing
1)How do you apply heat shrink (do you just heat it with a lighter or what?)
2)what mm diameter heat shrink will i need
3)What wires do i need to twist i order to make the thing work correctly as i assume theres two wires in the old 'GAY' kill switch and only one i assume in the cr style ones as its only the killswitch no engine off button
4)So you can just twist the wires together without soldering and they will still stay together
5)Is this a job better suited for 50sbrotherhood1# to do (will pay you ,you slag)

Cheers
 
a guy at the bike shop told me if you just buy the kill switch without wiring you can use your existing wiring he said it doesn't matter which way you put them on the new kill switch as long as they don't touch.
 
a guy at the bike shop told me if you just buy the kill switch without wiring you can use your existing wiring he said it doesn't matter which way you put them on the new kill switch as long as they don't touch.

yep, this is true, if you new kill switch is the type with two wires.
 
Yes I use it all the time.

Cut a small piece and slip it over the wire, then join the two wires togeter and slide the heat shrink back over the join. Get a lighter (or match) or you can use a heat gun but I never do and just wave it under the wire and presto it will shrink on.
 
If you want to do a really neat job of joining the two wires here is how to go about it (this is how I do it when I am extending wiring harnesses to hide to wiring in an engine bay etc).

You need two sizes of heat shrink, one big enough for each wire, and one big enough for the bundle of wires (in your case it will only be 2 wires).

Do not cut the wires right near each other as when you do your joins there will be a big ugly bulge in the harness, you need to stagger the joins by about 50mm.

1. Cut your wires and temporarly hook them up to see if it is working.
2. slip a peice of the large shrink wrap over all the wires (make sure it is long enough to cover all the joins + 50mm at each end.
3. put a small peice on each wire.
4. solder the wires togeter
5. shrink the small bits over each wire
6. slip the large peice over the other joins and shrik it

If you have done it well then you will have a very neat join that is water tight with a long gentle bulge instead of a big sharp lump.

Now for the cheat / cheapest method

Get a bit of shrink wrap big enough for both wires stagger the joins by 50mm or so, doing this means that the bare wires cant touch as thay will be 50mm apart. Shrink one peice of heat shrink over both wires, presto. Not as professional as the first method but quick, neat and less stuffing around.
 
cheers mate for all that,any special diameter (mm) wrap that would go best with the wires? and would it still look oright if you did the same steps as you listed but insted of soldering just twist each wire? also you say 50mm right thats obviously regarding the fact that i would buy the kill switch and cable not just the switch soley
 
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cheers mate for all that,any special diameter (mm) wrap that would go best with the wires? and would it still look oright if you did the same steps as you listed but insted of soldering just twist each wire? also you say 50mm right thats obviously regarding the fact that i would buy the kill switch and cable not just the switch soley

I dont know the sizes (I have a massive bunch in all different colors and sizes) and I just pick the closest size to the wires I am doing. Yes the instructions I gave you were for if you are joining wires to wires not into clips. If you take your kill swich to a auto shop (supa cheap, auto one) they will have some the correct size (rmember it has to be big enough to go over the wires and the bulge where they are twisted togeter.

If you just twist the wires togeter it will work, however over time (the heat shrink extends this time) the wires start to corrode and turn green and the connection fails. If you dont have access to a soldering iron then dont worry too much as it is only your kill swich and it should last for years before it gives any trouble.
 
cheers mate for all that,any special diameter (mm) wrap that would go best with the wires? and would it still look oright if you did the same steps as you listed but insted of soldering just twist each wire? also you say 50mm right thats obviously regarding the fact that i would buy the kill switch and cable not just the switch soley

I dont know the sizes (I have a massive bunch in all different colors and sizes) and I just pick the closest size to the wires I am doing. Yes the instructions I gave you were for if you are joining wires to wires not into clips, if you get a second hand swich it will probably come with short wires and just be snipped off. If you take your kill swich to a auto shop (supa cheap, auto one) they will have some the correct size (rmember it has to be big enough to go over the wires and the bulge where they are twisted togeter.

If you just twist the wires togeter it will work, however over time (the heat shrink extends this time) the wires start to corrode and turn green and the connection fails. If you dont have access to a soldering iron then dont worry too much as it is only your kill swich and it should last for years before it gives any trouble.

If the swich has wires long enough to reach the connection on your harness then get some clips and crimp them onto the wires and eliminate the joins altogether.
 
i know it is US dollars i rang my local Yamaha shop lol i am not stupid.
 
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This dosen't stall mine.

Pegleg have your kids worked out your hidden kill swiches yet?

Yep..lol they found out the other day when both their bike decided to stop running. I had to go over the whole wiring harness and when my 15 year old saw it he give me a good punch to the ribs and said "I spose you think your funny"? I was laughing and then my 13 year old came out and said whats so funny, and I was dobbed in again. Yep I copped another punch from him.
It turned out that the switches were the cause of the bike problems. all the mud and water over the last two years has had them corrode and they caused a short so I had to remove them.
 
my mait just took hes of all together and has none and its all good now all he does is stalls hes bike to stop nothing ever has happened to it nso u can do that if u want
 
i got mine today its one of those square Yamaha ones all you have to do is cut the existing kill switch wires off then solder the new ones onto it then plug it straight in and your done (just like pegleg said on page 1).
 
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