lifan 150 twin output stator mod

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what about charge system? twin phase or single ?
 
I run modified ORK ignitions on both of my rego'ed z50s. One bike has a 5watt luxeon LED headlight and the other runs a 10watt halogen downlight globe. The ORK is to small to run anything bigger than that. If you can keep it revving hard all the time it will keep up ok but I always find that after about 1/2hour of riding lazily the lights get dim. I've been caught more than once with a battery so low that the indicators wont flash. A bigger flywheel and stator will fix it, but as already mentioned in this thread you'll be sacrificing rideablility and tuneability by doing that. I ride with the headlight switched off in daylight and I never hold the brakes on when I'm stopped at traffic lights (brake light globe is 15watts!) You can buy LED tail light globes from jaycar. Might be a good option.
 
De magnets are rotating at higher surface speed even with same revs when you run bigger flywheel........

So de big flywheel works better than de small flywheel for make de stronger electrics powers .................

Everyone putting dot , dot , dot , dot , dot .......... So I will do same hehehe ...........................................
 
Just had a spare half hour so went out for a bit more of a play.

This mod DOES give you 2 outputs to play with BUT only gives you half the power of the original to each output.
Also just found out my reg/rectifier is shot and requires replacement (DAMMIT!) as with one of the feeds hooked to the white on my regulator/rectifier i was recieving 14v DC at idle and would climb to around 40-50 with the revs up, measured at the output of the reg/rec.

djbrooksy,
Its funny you should mention that, i have a motor winder mate (dying trade!) who i'll be chatting to when he returns from holidays on the best combo for the 150's stator.
 
i found when testing charge systems
1 get it hot as it changes resistances
2 try to load it up with lights etc all on while testing dc volts
40-50 must be ac volts rectifier not working ?
is it because the wire you disconnected is the earth , or is there another
its very interesting!
 
the 40-50 is dc, measured after the rec/reg but obviously not getting regulated. This was all done with the bike at running temp as its currently being a pig and won't idle unless warm. It was also done with the headlight (yellow rec/reg wire) to one side and the charge input (white) on the other with a battery flat @ 8.5 volts.
I'd call that pretty loaded.

Need to change the reg and do some more testing. Will have a hunt online now.
 
has the battery any capacity left?charge has go to go somewhere.,
as the phases are hooked together i would also load the proposed headlight .
and retest
 
Battery is currently on charge to see if there is any change in rec/reg performance with a charged battery.
The headlight which is on one side of the rec/reg was connected to one side of the phase and the rec/reg battery charge was hooked to the other side of the phase.

Little fella goes in for surgery tomorrow so it'll be a few days at least before i get to do any further tests.
 
It would be easy to change over to a larger rotor / stator combo but as mentioned you must sacrifice tuneability as well as performance. During my research i found a few crank failures and other catastrophic breakages after switch to a larger rotor. This mod in my eyes has been a success in giving two usable outputs although limited in capacity.

The trailtech link you've given is basically a simplified version of the RFS Stator rewind link you gave earlier. Completely different process but similar outcome. Something i may consider.

I'll try a new reg rec and if i don't get the results I was after then I'll head down a new path for my specific wants. Either the rewire path or setup a switchable charge system chosen automatically when the light is on or off. Most of my rides are fairly long so when the light isn't needed on a day ride i could charge the battery and on a night ride, have all power to the lights.
 
ive read on another forum that members have changed from the outer rotor ignition to a stator and have popped lifan 150s so that may not be a viable option

hope all goes well with your son
 
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This may be a stupid question but anyway its just a thought and worth putting out there.

Would switching over to an L.E.D headlight, which uses or draws far less power make it easier for the outer rotor kit to provide enough voltage and also maintain surplus power in the battery?
 
Would sure help it out alot. I've got LED turn signals and taillight/brakelight already.
When my little fella is free from this jail they call hospital (which also frees me), I reckon a LED headlight sounds like an good idea.
 
Yeah my RX has an L.E.D tail/brake light assembly and i recently swapped the indicators over to L.E.D also and had to change the flasher can to meter the current going to them which got me thinking they may do the trick as a head light
 
Gotta say thanks to 1fifty1wheel, this mod seems to be working so far.
Have put a Lifan 150 in an RX and its giving charge while running all the standard rx lighting.
 
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