major issues with kick back!!!

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well how am i to grind it down? can you run me through it hackmunch?
 
yep never ever heard of grinding back the pickup tab on a lifan 150 outer rotor..

if ya wana try it tho, search for the thread regarding the yx magneto mod or timing mod..
there should be a thread on here and at planet minis...

for the record, im 100% against this on a lifan 150... the ones iv tested with a timing light dont have that much at idle or kicking speed..

check this out http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/27659-lifan-outer-rotor.html
 
from what you've said you haven't even retarded the timing all the way yet?
so WHY would you grind the tab if you still have some adjustment available on the lifan ignition?

I'm with sean a lifan ORK should NOT need to be ground back!! that's the end of it the whole idea is retarded (in a special way, not a timing way :p )
 
i actualy did this but on a yx 150 with a stock lifan stator , as sean says i would be wary off the outer rotor

hers a pic and vid off what i did

unground

13072009172.jpg


ground the pickup back 5mm from left to right
13072009174.jpg


and vid off what it did

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i think ill leave the grinding for now then, dvdrip, the engine came set with the timing set up bang it the middle, i have adjusted it several times in the anitclockwise direction and have it now set where it has least kickback which is inbetween the middle and end on the retard side.
 
ok well just to clarify, even tho you tried several positions..
turning the stator plate anti clock wise retards it..

so you say it runs like a dog now?
well maybe your carby isnt the best...

a badly tuned carb (mainly the pilot circuit) can produce kickback too..

sorry if this has been asked, but have you verified your valve clearance and if so have you double checked.. also a common mistake with valve clearance is the gap people are setting them at..

its 0.003 thou (not Millimeters) for inlet and 0.004 thou for exhaust

i gotta say too, this is the very first lifan 150 iv heard about with these issues.. i think your problem is something other than the timing..

it wont be the coil..
it wont be the ignition timing.

it has to be fuel related..
 
alright thanks sean well orded oko 26mm carb yesterday so should be here soon, valves not yet, just waiting on the feeler guages to arrive,

so you think just carb or something?
 
well i was under the impression that the valves were done, so its gonna be 1 or both of those..(carb and clearance)
 
well they were set when it first was purchased but how long does it take for them to go out of place and need resetting? the engine is not that old
 
when you say they were set when you first purchased it, does that mean the last owner did them or you relying on the fact they were would of been good from brand new..

if the last owner did them and it was at the same time you bought it then id say something may have been set wrong...
 
it was my mates and we did them about 2 months ago at the clearances that you mentioned, i know you have to set them as soon as you buy a new engine but this engine was running fine a week before i bought it and put it in my bike
 
ok, well check them anyways. yr basically in a process of elimination mate..

but im putting money on the carb or maybe even a manifold leak
 
do this hold the kill switch down and kick it. no 2 china ignitions are the same i have seen 2 yx ignitions out of the same batch of engines over 12 degrees different. what carb and jetting are you running. is the idle all the way in making the slide as high as possible at idle?
 
I've told people to try the kill switch hold on idea ^^^^ ...

I think Hack is thinking of the YX/Zongshen fixed timing / analogue ORK's which can have the key slot positioning all over the place ...

Lifan ORK's have an adjustable backing plate like the Daytona ignitions which allows the pickup to be advanced or retarded ...
 
i know they are adjustable, but if you fully retard the timing and it still kicks back there are issues, i have seen 2 different outer rotor flywheels with the key cut in different positions some as far as 8 mm off. one was cut so far advanced that even with the timing fully retarded it still kicked back, swap outer rotor flywheels and everything was fine. there is no consistancy with the rotor mfg on where the key is cut in reference to the pick up. got it?
 
i know they are adjustable, but if you fully retard the timing and it still kicks back there are issues, i have seen 2 different outer rotor flywheels with the key cut in different positions some as far as 8 mm off. one was cut so far advanced that even with the timing fully retarded it still kicked back, swap outer rotor flywheels and everything was fine. there is no consistancy with the rotor mfg on where the key is cut in reference to the pick up. got it?

Aha ... Well you must have seen a few factory seconds or a faulty run of 'em ... Are you referring to the Lifan 150 ignitions with the silver rotor ? ... I have 3 of them right here and I just checked and they ALL line up perfectly ... Only the drilled balancing dimples are in varying spots but you'd expect that on a pressed out rotor ...

I think where the misunderstanding lies is that we haven't seen what you've seen ...

What we HAVE seen is warped backing plates ... so anything is possible ...
 
hmm never saw warped backing plates here. remember i played with the lifan 150 when it 1st came out so maybe since then they have changed ign suppliers plus since you guys are so close to china you guys get the "good" stuff 1st lol.
 
When you push the stator plate into the backing plate (off the engine) some of 'em jam ... But they'd probably pull flat and loosen up when bolted in position ... That can be caused by whatever clamping system they use to hold 'em down while they're being machined , swarf etc ... plus most parts give in to internal stresses during the machining stage ...

I placed 2 different plates together (back to back) and I could see slight day light between 'em ... One stator plate can be rotated freely in it's backing plate (off the engine) and the other jams when you push it in ... Nothin' a light sand won't fix ...

I've read where people have altered Lifan ORK backing plates to fit YX motors and it was mainly those guys saying they copped warped plates ... so it was probably caused by faulty re-machining ...
 
i agree with sean01 and dvdrip, owned a lifan 150 since they came out and ive had most things you can think of go wrong with it (my engine was built on a friday arvy obviously lol), but massive kick back on a lifan 150 is always stator plate adjusting or manifold leak or carby not being setup properly, loading some pics up so you can see what dvdrip is talking about
 

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