Psto.. my new/second hand Lxr clone

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gottagetacheaperhobby said:
Oh ok I thought being 2mm wider, it would flow more air not less..
They look great, but no idea on how she rides as I need a longer chain. You will be travelling everywhere when your wr is up nd running ;)
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Just realised what i said was a oxy moron and incorrect :p

Sucking the same volume through a larger hole means less air speed over the jets... Means to get the same amount of fuel and air to the right ratio you would need a larger jet.. hole to get the same amount of fuel in for that cc

My bad lol :p
Pretty much the best thing to do is plug chop, re-using the original plug just cleaning it with a wire brush.. and allowing the motor to cool down before inserting/removal

Then play with the primary if that is a issue..
Hell 100 was too rich (according to plug) in the 26mm that may be perfect in your 28mm..
 
Lol you had me scratching my head for a minute. I will start off on the 102, and if its rich drop to the 100. Im going to run the same pilot as the oko see how it goes. Got callums 160 assembled and ready to go in the bike today to so im getting it done haha
 
Pe28 went on today, with the taki coil. 40 pilot 102 mains 1.5 turns out on the af screw and bam she lives again. Plug is coffee coloured on the tip, so I guess I got it right. No bog of idle, only a slight splutter in the mid range. Will play with the needle tomorrow and see how I go. Feels a lot different with the big wheels, and im going to have to sort a different bash plate as its just catching the front wheel when the forks are compressed
 
Jetting sounds pretty close, are you going to try dropping the needle clip a notch to richen it up 1/4 throttle -1/2 throttle ?
 
Thats the plan, got to late tonight to keep tinkering. I need to hunt down a klx 110 style bash plate that will fit, any ideas where I might procure one? I found a couple but im unsure if they will fit...
 
Cleaned up the wiring loom a bit more today, went up to a 41 tooth rear sprocket, new brake fluid, and a massive de grease clean up
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dropped the needle down to the bottom notch and its fixed its mid range bog but being on the bottom clip means I should go up one jet size doesnt it
 
Im wondering if anyone has upgraded the oil pumps in the zonger 160s, if you can, and if its worth it? Where does everyone source bearings for these engines to? Might as well replace everything in the bottom end while its apart ;)
 
i haven't seen any upgrade/HV Oil Pumps for them, but that doesn't mean they're not around
Terry might have something ?

coolmodee01 can probably get you some good bearings, if you give him the numbers off yours ?
 
Well I dont think I need to touch the oil pump now, did a filter change and fresh oil today, took it for a quick spin and the head is far less rattly now, however I need to do rings now as it smokes massively. Little shattered but ah well what can you do...
 
Is this now callums motor?
The engine that came with the bike Had brand new rings, 6 thou gaps for the compression rings and the bore was in good nik and was brushed up a little by hand with some 2000 grit or something silly sand paper.

Maybe its time for those coolers you were talking about.. i still dont remember it running that hot when the engine was on the pitpro se..

The previous ring issue i had was due to heat but that was with the old carby and mudbogs and high rpm 2nd gear monos.
The only issue i could see was the oil ring holding to the piston and not scraping the bore.. And of course some scuffs on the old bore but that had a few hours on it too.

Brand new valve stem seals too.

seriously man there is quite a bit of oil that gets to the head and quickly.. take the cam cover off and rotate it in neutral with the cam cover sitting on the bash plate or a rag ready..
TBolt USA Tech Database - TBolt USA, LLC
Thats about the high volume oil pump.. I would assume the advantages would be more pressure spraying the bottom of the piston for better crown cooling?
I cant see the head requiring much more oil before the seals start to let it into the cylinder
 
Nah, the engine in the psto, I decided to flush it and go for a ride. As soon as I started it up with the fresh oil it chaffed worse than a two stroke, and only got slightly better when warmed up. The monos in second, where they for a long time? Cause I have read that monoing pitbikes for a extended length can starve the head of oil. Im debating whether to just bite the bullet and buy a new 160 and tb piston and start from scratch.
 
It is weird that it ran fine, no smoke, before I changed the oil, and as soon as I changed it, it smoked badly. I did check that the cranck vent was clear, and that was fine. See what I find when I pull it apart.
 
i doubt monos would cause any problems,
the oil pump would be able to pump/lift oil at least 1' - 18" higher than itself
the oil coolers on some engines are higher than that.


2000 w&d is a bit fine though, a honing stone is around 400/600 grit
 
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I was told that with the oil pump being at the front of the engine, when you hold the front up it can make the oil sit below the pump pick up. Just what I was told, not gospel lol. Either way its smoking like a 2 banger, and with it needing the clutch looked at as well as the gear box, im wondering if im not better to start fresh and buy a new engine and tb piston. Just means I will have to wait a couple of months.
 
gottagetacheaperhobby said:
I was told that with the oil pump being at the front of the engine, when you hold the front up it can make the oil sit below the pump pick up. Just what I was told, not gospel lol. Either way its smoking like a 2 banger, and with it needing the clutch looked at as well as the gear box, im wondering if im not better to start fresh and buy a new engine and tb piston. Just means I will have to wait a couple of months.
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the piston in it probably did about less than 2 hrs with me before it was hauled up to you..
New gudgeon and clips.. so that should be okay. and i doubt the rings were put in upside down or something.

I mean mud bog, high rpm a slightly glowing header and some pretty damn warm oil..
If you are going to rebuild it just put new valve stem seals in there like 5 bucks and probably get hurt from heat before the rings do.

what oil did you put in it? And did any gearbox come out with it? It still could be some chance of a shift star failing.
It would be cheaper for you to put a new gearset and shift star etc incl with new crank and or new bearings than to buy a $600 engine (although e-start would be cool)
 
I use castrol activ bike oil, I will check out the piston condition when I pull it down. No chunks of steel came out, some small shavings but thats all. Blew me out when I started it, it had a little bit of chaff before the oil change, but stuff all compared to now. And yeah im aware of the risks riding it, I just wanted to see how it handled the trails you and I rode now it has the big wheels on it. I was a bit naughty and rode it anyway, even without 2nd and burning oil I was all over the ass of the landlords 150r. Does anyone know if the tb head uses valves the same as a brand name bike?
 
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