Run In Oil - Mono vs Multigrade

[Enrico21]

Howdy Y'all. Looking through the manual for my new Atomik 250 aircooled Kuda Pro it indicates I should use monograde 30 oil for the run in at 300k oil changes and then after 900k switch to use multigrade in 10W-40. I've searched the thread and noticed that everyone suggests Castrol Activ 4T for the multigrade but there isnt much info about using monograde for the run in.

Checking out the auto shops I noticed there isn't much available in a monograde with Repco having their own brand of a 30W oil for running in and AutoBarn & Supercheap with a Penrite SAE30 designed for "small 4-stroke side valve engines. Suitable for use in lawnmowers, generator sets, pumps, outboards, brush cutters & more." The Penrite suggesting it's for side valve engines put me off as possibly being unsuitable, but then it's a brand where the Repco only has their name on it in the 'budget' range.

My questions is, should I be using a monograde for running in as the poorly written Chinese manual suggests and if so does anyone have any recomendations as to what brand.

 

[DvDRip]

nah just use activ 4t the whole time, don't read the manual it's full of crap

 

[Enrico21]

Are you sure the manual is fulll of crap, even though the foreword on the manual says:

"Heart-felt thanks for your purchasing this motorcycle....It presents all the details of the performance of this motorcycle to you and the vehicle will make your life more relaxed and happier"

 

[bournie]

bahahaha that there way of saying sorry we ripped you off

Nah my mate has one of those there pretty good as far as thumpys go

 

[Cactus Jack]

Using the 30 weight oil for run in is a good idea ... You want it to wear in a controlled manner in order for the parts to bed in and loosen the engine up ... Then when you feel it running freer ... put the 4T in and go for it ...

 

[Enrico21]

Based on that do you reckon the Penrite SAE30 would be the one to use although it indicates it is for side valve engines or would the Repco be best given that it indicates it is for run in of reconditioned motors.

 

[headsmess]

man, just use any oil thats over sae20...multigrade, monograde, whatever... the red stuff for mowers and statonary engines is cheap and works...penrites always a good oil, no matter what its for...

 

[sean01]

hold up....the penrite stuff that is for lawnmowers and rideons is a big no no...
dont know what it is about it but definitely is a china engine kill...

dont believe me give it a go and well see who is rebuilding there engine next week.(just trying to warn you)

seen many a fooked engine as a result from running that crap...glazes bores within hours and not to mention goes black real quick....

on one engine it glazed the bore and killed a gear.....
just remember that stationary engines dont have a gearbox and clutch to look after nor the same the clearances...

 

[Gawain]

Dont use monograde! Thats a ridiculous idea. Multigrade functions exactly like multigrade at operating temperature while providing far better cold starting protection. There is no reason to use mono. Use multi, and change it regularly and there wont be any problems. That said, even if you did run it in with mono it's unlikely to decrease the bikes lifespan as something else not related to lubrication will probably go wrong 1st.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Yeah I fully agree with Sean and Gawain ... The only reason why you'd run a 30 weight oil is to speed up piston ring and bore bed in ... which should only take less than an hour ... then the oil gets drained ... During that time you DON'T want to discourage wear ... you WANT the rings to lap in to the cylinder wall to give the best possible ring seal so as to avoid combustion and fuel contamination of the crank case oil via blowby ... contaminated oil is the REAL cause of glazing ... along with allowing the rings to get too hot during bed-in ... Flog the motor too soon and the ring end gaps butt together ... that causes the rings to act like scrapers to polish , plane or shave the bore smooth ... You have to get enough pressure behind the rings to force them out hard on the bore without over heating them or scuffing or glazing the bore surface ...

Anyway ... 30 wt mower oil also stuffs MOWERS ... LOL ... I've witnessed it many , many times over ... Mower engines don't get loaded like bike engines do ...

Gawain always shows up in an oil thread ...

http://www.miniriders.com.au/tech-talk/17437-oil-your-air-cooled-pitbike-engine-important.html