Stalling With Irk???

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its not the irk fault, so it would have to be from the riders, you can up the idle a little to help, but the main fix is to change your riding style and always keep the revs up, i have one and i barely stall it ever now, when i first put it in, it was a different story, but after a couple of good rides you find out how to use the power and really start to enjoy the way the irk allows your bike to rev up faster

yu' now u can try to get it through to some of these ppl as i have tryed and tryed

lol

im never come back to this thread again

oh and MY inner rotor ROCKS man i love it really lets the bikes rev hard
 
Ive put a irk in and now ive gone to start my bike and it wont start now.
ive had abit of a look myself and i have no spark can someone HELP thanx
 
all wiring looks right been over it so many times today the only thing is where is the best spot for the earth on a alloy frame?
 
Inner Rotor Kits are good if you buy a Jap made one I wouldnt waste money on a copy they are nothing but dramas I cant even get mine to go now and its the 3rd one I have bought, stick with the stock magneto and put a lightened sling on and it wont stall so easy and it will also be easier to start.:rolleyes:
 
well i hate to say it but im back in this thread i dunno y but i am

cant understand y u are haveing problems with the irk

i no of about 6 ppl who have installed these without problems
u must be doing something wrong as for if ya dont want the irk's no more let me no ill buy em of ya
 
yeh ill buy a couple myself, i have used a few on my own bikes and never had a problem, it sounds like they arent working because you havent installed them correctly, dont take that as a invitation to start a fight, but from my experience, what snitchy is saying and what i have seen and heard, the copys are just as good as the real deal when it comes to reliability, however i think the kitaco ones might give you a little bit more power but then you are paying double even triple the price for basically the same product
 
well its not that hard to put them in they pretty much just slide on and just a matter of running the wireing and its not hard either. 5 wires to hook up 2 wires to the magnic and pick up, 1 earth wire and 2 wires to the coil but im still having trouble with it and i think its the cdi but untill i get a muiltymeter i can not prove anything
 
Yeah I know. You can buy an oil slinger weight which doesn't let it stall so easy.

HAHA y would u want a oil slinger weight? one of the main features of the IRK kit it the LIGHTENED oil slinger!?!
the reason it stalls easier is coz there is less weight on the crank, therefore less rotational force keeping the crank spinning.. if you keep the revs up it will be fine, same with goinig up hills in like 1st, give it a bit more throtle to stop it from stalling..
 
I watched this thread before and didn't bother commenting but since Snitchy recommends using the proper tools , I've posted a pic of a Kitaco inner rotor removal tool : You use one end to go over the crank nut and attach to the rotor with three screws to hold it while you undo the nut . Then you swap over to the other end to hold the rotor while you pull it off the crank . You could easily make one yourself from a piece of flat bar , a nut and a bolt if you're good with a drill and welder but they are only $32 US + postage to buy . You'd think the chinese would make them to sell for a few bucks each to everyone who has bought one of their IRK's ???????? The chinese IRK's have all the same bolt hole spacings as the Kitaco's .......

http://www.powersportsstore.com/images/products/206-T16-large.jpg

http://www.powersportsstore.com/products.aspx?id=1232

Various tools to make life easier when working on and tuning motorcycle engines :

http://www.powersportsstore.com/product_list.aspx?type=catview&id=217

Incidentally - even 2 strokes (which fire everytime they reach TDC) stall easily with IRK ignitions . IF people take note , manufacturers are now putting full flywheels (outer rotor ignitions) on most 2 stroke MX bikes . It's DEFINITELY the rider stalling the engine ...... to test my theory out , start your engine , leave it running , and don't go near the bike all day long ...... it won't stall until it either over heats OR runs out of gas .........:rolleyes:
 
hehehehehe

i dont no where u get it from Jack but u always come up with the goodies


i had to drop my IR out last week it pooed it's self ,but all good i got a newy on the way ,dunno what happened to it but pete and i played with it and no luck took it to my best mate troy ,he's a god on things that take fuel and he said she's stuffed was dropping volt's and makeing the bike splutter when under rev ,just a thing that happens and im not wingeing i just put my ol magy in and ill wait till i get the new 1.What i did notice was it was corroded on the plate and also on the flywheel.So im thinking this may have something to do with it also ,and i tink im going to get a better coil to handle the higher rev ,and stay out of the water hehehe
 
Yes the flywheel covers leak water like a sieve ....... my relos Lifan monster 120 had corrosion on the ignition which caused spluttering , popping etc 1 week after he bought it so he brought it to me to sort out the problem ...

XR75's were super troublesome when they encountered water ..... so the answer was to make sure that the flywheel cover sat dead flat everywhere against the engine cases . You do that by sanding them with fine sand paper on a dead flat surface and checking until they DO sit dead flat ..... then make a gasket up or glue them onto the engine cases with silicon sealant ........ fit grommets and rubber breather hoses sealed up with silicon in the breather holes and BINGO ... route the ends of the breather hoses up high and you can ride thru deep water without the slightest problem ....... everything inside stayed spotlessly clean and the points adjustment lasted 10 times longer before needing checking and re adjusting ........

Using the same method on his Lifan engine solved all problems ...... except for the popping which turned out to be a poorly sealing intake valve seat which was fixed by lightly lapping and blue checking to ensure a perfect seal (the mug conned me into porting the head and matching his manifold and pipe while I was at it) . You can also smear silicon around all wire connectors to keep water out and stop them from shorting out and killing the CDI unit ....... But all things electrical DO have a certain life span and can fail out of the blue for no apparent reason ...... no matter how much you pay for them ...... that's just the way the cookie crumbles ...... LOL .......

Ignition timing should always be checked using an inductive pickup power timing light and you should note what various degrees of advance do for future reference and repeatability ....... I also make new marks once I've found the best advance settings .... that way I don't need to go thru it all again .......
 
interseting jack

i shall look into that for my next time i also think when i wash my bike this was a major cause of the water there and condensation,i shall look into a breather outlet for such problems i think i have the know how of the flat side cover and i was on that line of thought as well tho im a lil worried on the case but im sure some quality gaskit goo shall sort the problem .

and yes elect componants have a tendencey to say im over this when they feel like it ,never the less still does not deter me from the mod

cheers
 
interseting jack

i shall look into that for my next time i also think when i wash my bike this was a major cause of the water there and condensation

cheers

That's EXACTLY how my brother in law (a 2 stroke fanatic) was stuffing his bike up ...... when he blasted it clean with a hose .......

He towed it 100 K's back up to my place a week later complaining that 4 strokes were crap because it was spluttering and carrying on again and hard to start yet it was screaming without missing a beat when it left here ........ I started it , gave it a rev to see what it was doing , stopped it , walked inside and got a glass , cracked open his float bowl drain plug with the end of the hose in the glass and out came 50/50 fuel and clean water .........
 

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