TB race head issues

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DustyFork

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Just put on my tb v2 race head on my yx160. Found tdc and set timming. Did vale clearances. All is good but when turning over by hand I hear clicking noise in the head as it turn over tdc. It clicks just as the valves fully open. I installed piston with IN that is stamped on piston up. So don't know if valve hitting piston. Looked down spark plug hole with camera but i don't see anything. Any help guys
 
What do you mean by clicking? could it just be the rocker arms taking up slack (remember the rollers have a tiny bit of slack in them)
or cant you rotate it? in that case maybe your cam retainer plate bolts are too long and are interfering with the rocker arms (should be fine if your using the stock head bolts)
 
also after you run it a bit i recommend loctiting the hell out of the cam retainer plates, i got lucky my valves did not touch the piston somehow..
 
I can turn over the engine it's just got a click there. I turn it over real slow but I keep hearing it. I had to change the cam plate retainer bolt as my stock head has small diameter bolts.
 
ahh, then back out the screws or take them out and then try to turn it over i had a similar issue with my bike i just went ahead and grinded the screw flat shorter and shorter.. i took the head off along with rockers and just looked in the head to see if they were poking out with the cam retainer in and them done up all the way.. when they were i damaged/maked where it came out then grinded out till there..

if the heads already tourqued on and you cant be bothered just undoo the bolts untill every thing turns nicley and then take off the ammout there out + a little more
 
What cam have you installed? Auto de-comp?
cam chain not stretched?
Did you do a valve to piston clearance test before assemble?
 
It's not cam retainer bolts. I just backed them right off. I did notice the the cam chain when tight then a bit slack. Maybe I have a slipped chain off the crank sprocket. I didn't do the valve to piston clearance check. Howdo ya dothat?
 
DustyFork said:
It's not cam retainer bolts. I just backed them right off. I did notice the the cam chain when tight then a bit slack. Maybe I have a slipped chain off the crank sprocket. I didn't do the valve to piston clearance check. Howdo ya dothat?
Click to expand...

put a bit of bluetack, something like that that wont stick but will hold its shape on the piston where and around the valve reliefs turn the motor over (after tightening the head up)

im pretty sure you would notice if your cam chain was off as because the cam chain thats not on the crank probably wont turn the cam, take your cam cover off and try to turn it with your hand and see
 
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Did you use the tb piston to match the v2 head, or did you use the standard piston?
 
kosta said:
Did you use the tb piston to match the v2 head, or did you use the standard piston?
Click to expand...
True true kosta, It just isn't worth getting a V2 and not going a hi-comp piston while your swapping the head.
 
Sorry late reply. Proble I found today was timming chain was catch on slide. All fixed just need a manifold to complete so I can go ridin!
 
Top stuff mate, def get onto DHZ but there would be plenty of lads that have a manifold to sell if need be.
 
I checked dhz they want $60. Which ain't too bad but price for this upgrade keeps gettin bigger. Dhz just says its for 26 and 28mm carbs. I hope the internal size is 28mm so I can port match it to my oko. If anyone's got a manifold to sell please get back to me asap
 
rotn50 said:
True true kosta, It just isn't worth getting a V2 and not going a hi-comp piston while your swapping the head.
Click to expand...

Its debatable if the TB piston gives a higher compression ratio than a stock piston.
The TB piston has a much bigger dome on the piston but also has much bigger valve recess' and it does not go as high into the chamber on TDC as a stock piston does.

I just did a rebuild on a 177 V2 and the inlet valve had been tapping the piston its whole life.The piston was a TB and the owner had not checked clearances when first fitted
 
DustyFork said:
I checked dhz they want $60. Which ain't too bad but price for this upgrade keeps gettin bigger. Dhz just says its for 26 and 28mm carbs. I hope the internal size is 28mm so I can port match it to my oko. If anyone's got a manifold to sell please get back to me asap
Click to expand...

Ive got the TB mainifold that i got with my 26mm OKO kit from DHZ if you want that (p/n carb-009)? Brand new still in bag with nuts bolts gaskets and the little plastic plate. $15 shipped if your keen. Also why is it that you need a different manifold? is it because the carb is hitting the engine or the frame?

think this is the part here
http://www.dhz.com.au/buy/26mm-inlet-manifold-gasket/CARB-009
 
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timeeh said:
Ive got the TB mainifold that i got with my 26mm OKO kit from DHZ if you want that (p/n carb-009)? Brand new still in bag with nuts bolts gaskets and the little plastic plate. $15 shipped if your keen. Also why is it that you need a different manifold? is it because the carb is hitting the engine or the frame?

think this is the part here
http://www.dhz.com.au/buy/26mm-inlet-manifold-gasket/CARB-009
Click to expand...

Some of the 155z and yx's all vary with crf and klx exhaust ports and also flat and angled intake ports on the head. Dusty must have had a flat intake.
 
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Hi I would take ya on that offer although I have a 28mm ok and the intake is 27 mm I will hone either end to suit. The reason it hit is because it is a crf style head which the intake port is flat and the new klx head is angled towards the engine so the old manifold angles the carby towards the engine and won't fit on. I do have pics just don't know how to put them up.
 
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