z175.. The good the bad and the ugly

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64mm version, along with a KLX140 160cc one and a 53.5mm KLX110 slug, this week's Wiseco installs:)

Photo504.jpg
 
so where is the best place to buy the wiseco slug

will i need to bore cases on the zonga to run a skirted piston and barrel at 64mm?

whats the biggest i can run without case bore?

um best place to find said barrel to suit 64mm skirted slug?

the rest i can sort
 
If you run the Honda Trail Bikes 64mm jug & slug, no case boring is needed. The batch of Wiseco's were made special for one US fellow, and the 64mm ones with a 13mm pin are gone, as of yesterday (sorry). 65 and 66mm are still available, use a steel sleeve, require case boring.
 
how reliable has the tb 64mm setup been for you???

do you think it's the best way to go for a bolt on so far it seems the way to go????

the reason for all the stupid q's is at this stage i CBF'd building a power house to bolt to a g/box that wont handle it. lets be honest most top end mods are done at the expense of g/box's.

so boreing a case i'm just gunna smash doesn't wash with me at this time

so i'm after a torquey bolt on v2 but i dont want piston/valve issues either.

i'm not a huge skirtless fan but i'm stuck with it i spose.

i've even thought of machine and flowing a 4v head but cant be bothered

to bad about the wiseco slugs they should make more.

so cylinder. is there any advantage paying for the tacky kit. is there anyone else worth looking at for a bore kit?

i love stupid questions
 
FWIW, the Tak head has lighter valves, WAY lighter rockers, decomp cams, better springs.


how reliable has the tb 64mm setup been for you???
Very. Most failures are incorrect install, cheap air filter, running piston and/or head beyond service life

do you think it's the best way to go for a bolt on so far it seems the way to go????
Yes!


the reason for all the stupid q's is at this stage i CBF'd building a power house to bolt to a g/box that wont handle it. lets be honest most top end mods are done at the expense of g/box's.
Bottom end failures are almost always abuse, or improper setup. Yep, they're $7 each Chinese gears, but hold up decent when treated nicely.

so boreing a case i'm just gunna smash doesn't wash with me at this time
Later cases are pretty tough, and since it's wise to go inside and tidy up clearances, why not bore them while split? Then a steel-sleeved 64/65/66 can be run. All use a 69mm spigot.

so i'm after a torquey bolt on v2 but i dont want piston/valve issues either.
Trail Bikes piston has beyond-adequate notching. You can almost epoxy a quarter in the notch, be a tooth off and float the valves and clear. Almost. The Wiseco's are adequate but need verification with an S35-type.

i'm not a huge skirtless fan but i'm stuck with it i spose.
Short skirts ONLY belong on long tanned legs.

i've even thought of machine and flowing a 4v head but cant be bothered
YX 4v sucks 'roo balls. Tak 4v kicks butt, has a mile-wide torque curve. I friggin LOVE those heads. My new one, with the CNC-ported intake for FCR downdraft carby will be here in the next day or two.


to bad about the wiseco slugs they should make more.
"They" will, but it takes a batch of 50 or so to get the pricing down. 10 at a time runs aboot $150 each, dealer

so cylinder. is there any advantage paying for the tacky kit. is there anyone else worth looking at for a bore kit?
The Tak 67mm piston and jug were designed as a S-Cut kit, not a hacked afterthought $17 Alibaba part. Still a shorter service life than a longer skirt, but the jug will last through several pistons if they get replaced when they ask to be. You still need to open the top of the case for the Tak piston to drop a few MM in. Go deep & wide, for later changes;)



i love stupid questions
Yeah, me too:)
 
thanks heaps buddy you've been a good help

reps and creds your way

i've already have box apart dont wanna do it again unless i have to and i'm pretty good on the g/box side of things hell i got 18 months out of a lifan 150 before the first rebuild

and have only done one clutch recently on this engine and a top end after say 30-40hrs and it's 18 months old now

thanks again

you know what this conversation has not been had anywhere that i could find MR and ch50's still hasn't had a say..........
 
notching the piston isnt hard coolie, just clay it and carefully dremal it. notches need to be a little deeper and slightly more radius..
IMO the V2/s35 made a massive difference to the stock 175 power
 
I think there is some good god boxes and some bad. My 1st box with v2/s35 lasted 2 hours. My current engine with the same set up on it has reached the 25 hour mark. Both engines were the same 155z.Only difference was one had no wires for lighting and the 2nd was does.
 
yeah id say there's some machining tolerance differences in the cases and gear drums from batch to batch, and not to mention the dreaded friday engines lol..
 
Im guessing my first engine was a friday engine. Kicker gears and centre case went all in one kick. 2 days before racing. Made me very happy. Lucky my attempt at a friday engine the day before racing was a better attempt.
 
Built last day of week . So not built as a good as monday tuesday wedensday thursday engine haha
 
You know like where does this part go? Who cares the beers are cold and calling so lets bang the part in any where and lets get out of here.
 

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