zacass's New Frame

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yup i see your point

the cardbord cut out i have is almost the same
didnt realy want to weld but if ya recon it needs it i will

it has as much meat in the plates as i can get without putting the shock on a weird angle ,soo im hopeing it will work ,not a biggie if it craps it self ina few months i'll just get a new bike hehehehe
 
i know it sucks having to weld a new frame but its better than the alternative lol
good luck with it
 
true that

it's more a prob of i only have a stick welder and i dunno if i can welfd the 3mm to the original mount without to much problems i dont think the mount is 3 mm more like 2
 
ive only got an OLD non adjustable stick and ive welded 1.6 with it when i made the new baffle setup for the zed
 
Custom said:
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just my 2c...reprofile the back of the plates (yellow line) and weld at the base (purple line) to give more support and strengh. there is a good chance the adding the extra leverage of the long mount into the standard frame will cause the mount to stress and eventually break
Click to expand...

Yes Custom is right ....... I'd actually make the plates go from right up the front and right down to the bend where the other gusset is on the frame (basically the same as the sides of the stock mount with the extension parts added ) ........ all the strength is right at the points where the stock brackets are welded to the frame back bone ........ if you weld there , you can't possibly go wrong and the shock mount will actually be STRONGER than it is now .... the longer the attachment to the frame ....... the stronger it'll be ....... plus there's NO need to fully weld it all the way along ...... you can do short stitch welds on top of the existing welds without heat affecting the frame ...... on top of that there's virtually no chance of an amateur welder blowing holes etc ...... LOL .....

IF you bolt it as you've shown , you'll need to have "anti - crush" tubes in between or there'll be no solid clamping force . The stock mount will squash in and the bolts will keep coming loose . The holes also need to be drilled so that the bolts are a tight fit ..... virtually a hammer in fit to act like dowel pins to eliminate any play . There is a lot of stress at that point and play will allow "hammering" to occur which can create more than 1000 lbs impact stress on landing from a jump . Welding eliminates all the problems associated with bolting . Make sure you wear protective gear when welding ....... pants included ...... :p
 
Welding will be far superior to bolting and custom and cactus are both right. While you have the welder out I would also wack a peice on top to join the two plates together (similar to the existing mount). and while you are at it i would also put a gussett on your oil cooler mount (they snap eventually). But I would put some clothes on before you weld as sunburn or a hot bit of slag could have you riding high in the saddle for a while.
 
jack i was reading away and nodding me head heheee

then i got to the part where i need to wear pants and im stumped as i always weld in the nik

give a nice glow on me tally wackka hehehehe (ouch)

ok boys looks like im going to be welding over the next week some time
i ws going to use spacers in the mount but if im gunna weld it ill deleat the bolts ........
 
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ok so this is it i'll weld where the red is ,do u still think i need to bolt it up as well ,also as casa said ill pop a pice on top of them as well
buggers me how you guys break your oil cooler mounts

i never have nor even looked like is was gunna break , on the new frame it looks way better than on the stocker frame


so ill let that go the less heat stress i can the better
 
Drill a couple of holes in the new plates and do a plug weld or two instead of the bolts if you want to but it probably wont need it.

With the amount of holes I burn in my work clothes I should start welding in the nude.
 
I know what Cass is talking about in relation to the cooler mounts ........ on some frames they're really thin and weak .......

Yeah Snitchy ... I don't know how good you can weld ... but I am of the opinion that anyone can do good welds if they are patient and do some practice runs on test pieces first ....... it's all in making the parts fit neatly , cleaning the paint off first and maintaining a short arc gap , using the right rod angle and keeping a steady hand ........ also , use good dry rods ...... I prefer General purpose (grey) rods over Satin crafts (blue) Cass does panel beating so he'd be no stranger to welding ........
 
I know a lot of people who tink they are good welders but in actual fact they are good GRINDERS (they use an angle grinder to clean them up). My boss seems to need to grind every weld he ever does where I prefer a nice neat weld that dosent need grinding. I have a three phase DC welder and can do good welds with crappy electrodes (I hardley ever use it as I also have a good MIG) but if you have a "normal" AC welder good quality electrodes make a massive difference to weld quality.

I have used crap metalcorp electrodes ($20 bucks for 5kg) and good CIG electrodes ($70 for 5kg) and the difference in weld quality amayzed me.
 
i can weld wel i can stick to bits of metel together

nar im gunna make my plates and then go to my mates place
he's got a mig and ppl pay him on a weekly baisis to weld truck traliors together
so im sure he no's some 1 who can weld it for me hehehe

should be what im lookin for .....2 bits of steal stuck togther
 
cass38a said:
I have used crap metalcorp electrodes ($20 bucks for 5kg) and good CIG electrodes ($70 for 5kg) and the difference in weld quality amayzed me.
Click to expand...

Yes the electrodes are critical to the end result with most AC home welders ....... crap electrodes have too runny a flux plus the wire burns back up inside the flux making them shrouded and harder to start . You have to strike hard every time to chip the flux away and sometimes it splinters off leaving bare wire that sticks ..... bad rods can make even a 1ST class tradesman look bad ..... LOL ....

Grinding AFTER welding is what bad welders do ........ it's similar to a dog scratching dirt and grass up to cover its' crap ...... :p

CIG rods are definitely the best I've used ...... Super Cheap Autos sell rods that are sometimes good and sometimes bad ..... LOL .......

I hate going to someone else's place and using their equipment and rods ..... it's usually crap ....... LOL ........

With welders you have to use as short a supply lead as possible and have the lead straight and uncoiled .......

Most people who use MIGS can't weld ...... it's easy to put down a run but the metal just rolls over the top similar to a blob of candle wax and doesn't fuse or properly wet in .... giving the strength of brazing (Inter granular peno rather than inter molecular) ....... a good MIG weld has lines in it similar to a good stick weld ..... Properly done MIG welds are the equivalent of low hydrogen stick welds ....... standard stick electrode welds have hydrogen embrittlement ....... they crack rather than bend like MIG welds .....
 
a good rod for sticks is the astro 2000 rod or as me and dad know them d*ckhead rods cause any d*ckhead can get a good weld with em. Ive used them for a few frames ive knocked up and they seem to have a good strengh so i used them for welding some re-enforcement into dads bullbar ( which he uses as a dozer blade) and its still going strong
 
Cactus Jack said:
Grinding AFTER welding is what bad welders do ........ it's similar to a dog scratching dirt and grass up to cover its' crap ...... :p
Click to expand...

Thats what I keep telling my boss. IMO if you need to weld in a non visual part of the car I recon you should leave it alone (if it is on an outer panel you need to grind it back and hide it). If I do a pre purchase inspection I can always tell that there has been work done (regardless of how well it is hidden) and if I see good welds at least I know that a decent tradesman has done the work. If I see welds ground flat there is always a question mark over the quality of the repair.
 
nice job snitchy, hope the new frame does you good.

m0p
 
had a brain wave today while looking at it

im gunna cut the old mount of the old frame cut the sides out of it and then weld and bolt to the new mount ,will be exact the same so should fit perfect.

all i shall have to do is space the top bolt on the shock to alow for the thickness of the original mount

will weld it this Saturday so im only useing a 100 am welder hehehe

so i'll need to warm it up first with my blow torch so il grab some decent sticks on saturday and see how we go
 
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