Search results

if you want less reliability , go for a chinese brand hydro clutch. if you want a reliable clutch set up i would recommend the use of the old faithfull heavy duty non chinese cable clutch.

yes, as ry nos said. 105 main jet with your 25mm carby set. plus get rid of your stock 14 tooth front cog and fit a 17. available from esd.

plus it is very wise to use atleast some cable ties at all 4 points, as we know rubber fuel hose does crack.

yes, its a question from mild to wild plus reliability as well, then comes the 17 tooth front pinion. i sugest you contact ESD on this site .

cut the fuel hose about half way up the straight section in marked pic, fit the filter with the arrow facing up as this is the direction of fuel flow from the tank. also use screw clamps or cable ties to both ends of your filter.

the weight of the stock flywheel compared to the inner rotor kit is quite a difference, this is why when you fit the irk to a non start in any gear engine you must remove weight from the other side of the crank end, such as oil slinger ect ect. a friend of mine who owns PBD now has a complete...

yes, it looks like its now time for the irk. or a new crankcase halve. also a bit of chain oil wouldn,t hurt if i may say so.

as they say; friction produces heat. i would inspect the cam and bearings now for any signs of blueing of the metals.

is this starter wired correctly so it turns in the right direction ?

replace the rear swing arm bolt with a high tensile steel type, make sure your rear shocky is not too soft, make sure there is oil in the front shocks ie; 150mls per side. replace the front pinion from the 13 or 14 to a 17. this mod will give you a better 1st gear plus more speed.

you think the kenda is a hard tyre, try the dunlop.

you say there is a pulse coming from the engine, at what part of the engine? also have you replaced the sparkplug ? or checked the end cap ?

is it possible for you [g-pit ] to supply decent answers to questions plus reframe from language ? the eyes are on you.

a soft compound off road tyre is very good if used on surfaces like ; sand / mud and soft soil. the harder compound tyre is better suited to all teraines that many of these pit style bikes are used on. like some bitumin ect ect.

as long as you know the clearances of inlet and exhaust plus know which is which eg; inlet / exhaust, all you need to do is very slowly turn the engine over whilst watching the valve tappet go up and down, you need to find the off rocking point of this valve where there is stationary...

i don,t think the kenda tyre is as good as other brands available mainly due to its very soft walls and tread compound plus made in china. we have tried a couple of the kenda range tyres and compared to the dunlop which has a much harder wall and tread compound, we have stuck with this dunlop...

you must fit clips or small cable ties to all 4 fuel line connecting points as there is a chance that now using a larger hose , air is being sucked into this somewhere.

to cut down on the suggested expence , try a 17 tooth front sprocket and a 105 main jet, thats if you have a 25 to 26 mm mikuni fitted.

a very good hard compound tyre for all mx type bikes is the Dunlop. my son has tried the kendas ect but can see the lasting of the dunlop easy.

thats a good one. hit a pot hole and bent my h/bars and nearly threw me off. this would have to be a first in my experience of off road bikes . i know the stock chinese bars are not real tough but to bend a bar by this method, something aint right. maybe its your front suspension. hard as.