air intake snorkle

[V1ETBTKz]

i have no air filter atm so its my last option but iam gonna put a rubber hose on to the seat like the other bloke,

 

[numroe]

I like the the "shroud" concept around a POD filter. Problem for me is boot clearance (not enough). Also still possible major issue for creek crossings.

I have a "snorkle mk2" project in the works. My mk1 snorkle (45mm ID) was too small. It choked the air flow. Way too small. So I have the parts for the mk2 now.

* 62mm ID air ducting tube.
* Home made adapter to fit to carb inlet (smooth progression).
* 60mm ID unifilter POD for the other end (under seat).
* Some leaner main jets to try.

Hopefully the 62mm ID tube can work more like an air box to hold air at atmospheric pressure kind of on demand.

The 60mm uni was only $26. Not sure if needed, but a larger surfaced filter has to be better. With the mk1 45mmID radiator tube, I found it still ran rich even with no filter at all. So the tube itself was for sure the problem.

Photos later. And a report after that. Fingers crossed. I know this has to zap HP, but in some conditions I really need it. So much water at my friend's farm!

 

[cass38a]

You could try the pod but flatten out one side

 

[GoosE#69]

Not a problem I've encountered yet as we haven't had any rain in adelaide for a long time,well not enough to make puddles anyway.
However when I hose the dust off my bike after riding I squirt away at just about everything,I avoid the air filter as much as possible but still ends up wringing wet.I still never have any problems with water getting in that I'm aware of.Bike still starts fine even when filter is soaked.
Just running UNI filter and good quality filter oil at the moment and had no issues but we'll see what happens IF we actually get some rain.

 

[numroe]

However when I hose the dust off my bike after riding I squirt away at just about everything,I avoid the air filter as much as possible but still ends up wringing wet.I still never have any problems with water getting in that I'm aware of.

If you wet a filter containing lots of dirt then run your bike then I'd say 100% chance you will suck grit thru your engine. Remove air filter just after you ran the bike and look for dirty water run marks in the carbie inlet. At least dry it with a rag, then wait a little longer before starting. We think we get away with dusting an engine, but slowly the engine dies.

 

[numroe]

I have a "snorkle mk2" project in the works. My mk1 snorkle (45mm ID) was too small. It choked the air flow. Way too small. So I have the parts for the mk2 now.

* 62mm ID air ducting tube.
* Home made adapter to fit to carb inlet (smooth progression).
* 60mm ID unifilter POD for the other end (under seat).
* Some leaner main jets to try.

OK, snorkle mk2 is a raging success! No need to use leaner jets. Runs the same with a 50mm uni POD direct on carb versus the snorkle and 60mm unifilter under my seat. Also using a dual stage filter under the seat. The thing breaths. In fact the bike really ripped! I shall post new pics later this week.

Tricks required:
Make snorkle duct as short as possible.
Positioning filter under seat so nothing presses on it too hard. I have the 80mm OD filter plus an out unifilter.
Keeping clamps in position (one on carb and two on the 60mm alum join piece on the rear end of the duct.

My guess as to why it now works is that the flexible duct pipe naturally forms a very smooth bend. Also the 60mm ID duct (more like 62mm) acts kind of like an air box. Lots of air in there at atmo pressure to cope with pressure fluctuations as the inlet valve opens and shuts.

Interesting side note: Anyone quick revved their engine in neutral with an OKO/Keihin carb and noticed how much fuel mist come out the intake when doing this? Heaps of fuel mist! I reckon that would have to dissolve a lot of filter oil with a POD mounted on the carb.

 

[arkark]

hi all ,,, when i got my DHZ 140cc i road in the rain all day ,, never stoped one time ,,, the first day ,, dut day 2 in the rain it just died every 5 mins ,,,the air filter must of had something on it 2 water proof it ,,, i have been thinking of a air filter box as well ,,

 

[arkark]

nice bike ,,, thx 4 the pic,s ,, it help a lot ,,good no you ,, and thx

 

[shooter114]

good idea on the mud flap . with your snorkel how about corrugated conduit? although it wouldn't be 100% non collapsible it is still rigid enough. i had this problem on my brothers bike when i was following my mates on their full sized bike, i hit a puddle and the bike died in the arse i had to try and start it/ wheel start it for about 2 km's and as soon as my mate in his ute came to pick me up it started.

 

[numroe]

with your snorkel how about corrugated conduit?

my mk2 snorkle is a corrugated duct. I shall post pics when I can.

 

[jollys]

numroe,

With your first snorkle hose di you have ny ai entrys to help pressurize he air box? Maybe why you were running rich. If you had a couple of slots in the side number plates it might get some fresh air to fed the air box?

Just a thought

 

[numroe]

numroe,

With your first snorkle hose di you have ny ai entrys to help pressurize he air box? Maybe why you were running rich. If you had a couple of slots in the side number plates it might get some fresh air to fed the air box?

Just a thought

There was plenty of air access to/around the air filter. It was immediately obvious that the tube itself was causing the problem when I went for a test run with no filter and NO seat. Just the tube on the carb.

Thanks for the thought though.

The mk2 works great. No pics avail yet sorry. Maybe late next week when I get back home.

 

[numroe]

Okay finally some pics of my mk2 snorkle system. I don't mean to sound like I'm giving myself big wraps, but it's just, very good! I can ride thru all sorts of crap and not worry about much at all. I recently put a bigger cam in the engine and it runs unreal. No fuel mist from the carb to dissolve my filter oil. No filter oil on my left boot either.

Note there is a short piece of 1.5mm thin walled 60mm OD alum tube in the join between the duct tube and the unifilter, where the twin SS hose clamps are. I sanded the outside of this sleeve so it never slips out of the hose clamps.

It amazes me to see the good condition of that rear tire. You should see it now after my last ride with the new Akunar A1 cam - severely shredded.

Note here the spacer to fit the ducting to the carb. This spacer is a thick piece of rubber tube which has no hard lip on the inside.

My trusty dog loves bike work days...

 

[msomotorcycles.com.au]

Great job Numroe. Lot of thought gone into that setup. We'll get that ride day sorted soon.

Cheers, Ken

 

[motoXXX]

is this better then your other one you made in anyway...???

also does the wrinkle affect of the tube slow down the air causing a bog or anything as i would think the older one you had that was smooth on thi inside would of worked better???

or is this one smooth on the inside aswell just wrinckle on the outside???

 

[Sid is a goose]

You keep your bike clean. Old one looked better but who cares.

 

[numroe]

is this better then your other one you made in anyway...???

Yes, my mk2 is way way better. This one works. Zero power loss. Even with the big cam, this engine breaths well. The older mk1 snorkle (which only saw daylight once) with smoother but smaller tube and harder bends, caused huge restriction at 60% or wider throttle open. eg. I have the K102 main jet in the OKO26 at present. With the smaller duct I had a K95 (custom drilled) but still a tad rich. It seems obvious now that the corrugated surface (inside as well) causes no resistance. I believe the key factor is the size (volume of air to feed the carb upon inlet valve open) and gentle bend of the duct.

 

[numroe]

You keep your bike clean. Old one looked better but who cares.

Keeping it clean is easy. I have a pressure washer. I use CT18 truck wash. I INOX oil all metal parts after washing - so no corrosion and also any muck comes off real easy after the next ride. With a clean bike it is heaps easy to see problems and fix them before they get bad.

A good tip after every wash, is to Inox lube the carb slide and also drain the carb bowl to empty. Then I run the engine to warm it up, and if the oil looks dirty on the dip stick then I let it warm up fully then change the oil. I use Rimula-X oil which is not expensive.

The mk2 snorkle looks okay IMO. When all plastics are on I don't really see the mk2 intake pipe. Actually when the airfilter was straight on the carb, that's what I think looked ugly. But the old saying "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" is so true. To my eye, things which are practical and efficient are beautiful. I am more engineering type than artist. Stickers and free advertising don't do it for me. I get enjoyment from using efficient machines - any kind - but mostly dirt bikes!

 

[motoXXX]

thats good great work mate

what happend to your rear shock cover.you over it or you jusat didnt have it on??

also id advise with all your other purchases that you get a over sized radiator style oil cooloer as they are much more efficiant and keep the bike that extra bit cooler

but good work mate

 

[numroe]

Great job Numroe. Lot of thought gone into that setup. We'll get that ride day sorted soon. Cheers, Ken

Thanks Ken. When we do meet up and swap rides, I think you'll be impressed. It goes a lot better than it looks. That's on straights, woops, berms, ruts and jumps. On short take off jumps now with the A1 cam it's just unreal. Clutch upgrade next, and a better front tyre.