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hey harry

good to see ya round the traps mate remember no silly questions or you'll start the masses goin at ya again

and yeah wouldn't worry about the 125 mate your looking at $100 for the gears 35 for gaskets plus the time it will take ya
there's half the price of a 140 there and half the hassle plus you might be able to sell the 125 to someone

later
 
im might get the lifan or yx 140 or 155z or some 160

dad called fx racing and said what hapend and they said oh it might be the bore not the piston clip.

it was running perfelcly last saturday intill the bang and the backfires
 
hmm it could be bent zorst valve

dunno

hit up ed at ciniworx he'll look after ya on a motor

further for ya to drive i know but may be worth it
 
is it just me or does that sound like its got a mad top end rattle...
also what was the full story with your wheel... did the original people replace it? cause didnt you get a wheel or some wheels with billet hubs or sumthin
 
the tube popped because the tyre wasn't in right we took the wheel to fx racing and we bought the 2 wheels from city motorbikes.
the guy who ownes fx racing look at the wheel and said have you tighten this or losend it and i said no.
he said the hub has not been put together right and said you are luck you broght it here because the high tensile bolts are cracked and if you rode this the whole wheel will crack and it whould be nasty and cost you alot of money.
so they drilled the bolts out and fix it propley and put a new tube in.

the new coil and spark plug was needed because the edc joke killed it
so new coil spark plug lead and spark plug (that why it stopped starting)
and it need new front brake disc (because city motorbike rouned the bolts off:mad:)
new spacers (city motorbike didn't give us the old ones and the new ones wern't the right size
mogul oil:D
full service
fix the brakes
but they left the valve like this
bikes140.jpg

so all up $290:mad:
but he said i will give you a discount so
$180;)
bikes141.jpg

bikes139.jpg
 
the nut on the tube is supposed to be tightened up against the valve cap so the valve stem has freeplay if the tire slips on the rim.

you have to locktight the hubs together or bolts come loose and that can destroy the hubs
 
DvDRip said:
the nut on the tube is supposed to be tightened up against the valve cap so the valve stem has freeplay if the tire slips on the rim.

you have to locktight the hubs together or bolts come loose and that can destroy the hubs
Click to expand...

fx racing did that already

up tight against the rim so it doesn't move
 
no not up tight against the rim, up tight against the valve cap
 
so the EDC killed your coil; your lead and plug

now who told you that bullshit , i swear im gunna ban you for good ,, bloody idiot


now the valve nut goes tight to the valve cap not the rim , if you were told this , this is also bullshit

wanker
 
snitchy I put the nut up against the cap, so if the tire slips on the rim it doesn't rip the valve out. I've seen allot of bike shops do this too
 
Rimlocks will stop tyres from slipping ... Snitchy's right ...
 
ok fair enough, if cactus says it then it must be true. but I have seen rimlocked tires slip on a bigbike, maybe his psi was too low? and what about all the people not running rim locks? I know most people don't
 
The nut goes to the rim and always has ... just go to any bike shop and take a look ... It's mainly there to stop dirt , mud , water , sand and grit from getting in and rusting things or abrading the tube and rim ... Mud or water can cause the tyre to slip on the rim where it otherwise wouldn't ...

Rim locks ARE needed for hard off road riding use ... XR75's only had 4 hp stock yet they had a rimlock fitted as stock ... IF CRF 50's don't have them it could only be because Honda assumes only kids (who aren't heavy enough or ride hard enough) will be riding them ... err ... and 2.5 HP thru an auto clutch isn't what you'd call tyre slipping power ...

Since the Chinese COPY things ... they'll also copy the mistakes ... including omitting rimlocks from the rear wheel of stock dirt bikes ...

Doing what Dvdrip said will obviously work if the tyre only slips slightly ... but it's not really the right way to deal with tyre slip ...

Sometimes idiots get punctures then keep on riding or driving ... so the tyre is bound to slip in that case ... rim lock or not ...

In the case of drag cars which can run low tyre pressures ... ie 5 psi ... rim screws are used ... some people risk not running them ... They paint a white line on the slicks in line with the valve so they can see if they've moved ...
 
now the valve nut goes tight to the valve cap not the rim , if you were told this , this is also bullshit
Click to expand...

I don't think that's agreeing lol.....

keeping mud n crap out is a good point, I've been recommended tightening the nut to the cap from many different sources. I also run a rim lock on the rear. but if cactus says it it can't be wrong so I'm gonna tighten them to the rim now
 
Last edited:
Snitchy is saying ... "IF you were told the valve nut goes tight to the valve cap not the rim , then you were told bulls - hit" ...
 
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