Desperately need help with pit bike

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alrighty so were back to it not firing at all, I will test the connections again tomorrow
 
have a look at the plastic plugs and sockets,
in the female ends, the terminal open up a bit and make a bad contact, or none at all, electricity cant flow through then

i usually use a small jewellers screwdriver with a flat blade,
stick it in the plastic housing where you would normally plug the other plug/socket into
and pry the tabs of each brass terminal down to close it back up a bit, dont go too tight/far though,
it will damage the terminals

otherwise replace them as recommended earlier, (the best way)

craig
 
so where are we at with testing the stator plate!!

your having way too much trouble for such an easy repair..
 
stator plate was tested and the numbers came out fine, I posted the numbers a couple of posts ago, I know what you mean, I have never had this much trouble with any type of engine before hahaha
 
alright so I need to get this thing finished within the week because I am leaving for college.......ughhh. What would make the bike start up and run fine and then die and not start at all I'm confused and just tired of this thing hahahahaha
 
yep, coil or stator.. they degrade with heat.. iv seen coils run fine at very low rev's but roll the throttle on and die.. same goes for stator..

buy the lot and replace it all. no problems then..

you have a new coil and cdi so you only need to buy a stator and wiring harness..

nearly a plug and play type deal..

those number readings you mentioned seem wrong for both dead or good..

a dead stator coil will read real low and should fluctuate at like 600 and drop then raise.
a dead crank angle sensor (blue/white wire) will read well under 100 or well over 150

just replace it all

edit.. some fuel problems can give the exact same symptoms when running..
 
all right, well I don't have a flywheel removal tool so Ima need to figure out how to get to the stator, and how to find a wiring harness for it cause you can't just really walk into radio shack and get one that will be a perfect fit hahahaha.
 
buy online mate thru a well known mini bike shop..

im sure Terry from firepower minis could sort you out with everything you need
 
Im getting readings I forget the exact readings but when set to 200ohms it comes out 98, and 2kohms on the other wire on it comes out 380 I forget the exact wires....its some where in the thread....honestly I know its electrical and I'm tire of screwing with every thing, its a 5yr old bike, I'ma just replace it all, and in the end ill have a pit bike for $200 which isn't bad
 
98 and 380 are sign's of dead electrics... providing they have been tested properly..

but yeah just buy all new stuff and be done with it..
 
Have you checked fuel flow ? Seems weird that it ran then ur fuel tap was off so it stopped , maybe u have a fuel hose blockage,test the hose n tap by taking the hose off ur carb turn fuel on see if u have flow

But most likely from what I've read you have a dodgy connection somewhere buy a ne 10$ harness off eBay and be done with it
 
can't be that^^^^brand new carb, and fuel line hahaha. Im just going to replace the the stator and harness

Edit: I went out and bought a gear puller today at the auto parts store, Ima get that flywheel off later and order the parts
 
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sean01 said:
98 and 380 are sign's of dead electrics... providing they have been tested properly..

but yeah just buy all new stuff and be done with it..
Click to expand...

sean,
the readings i compared his readings with, were from a link of yours which you quoted on another thread.
100 Ohms on the pickup
360 Ohms on the charge coil

do you realise these readings can vary between up to plus or minus 10% - 20% depending on ambient temperature ?
eg; on a warmer day you will get a higher reading than a cooler day

i dont understand how/why you would say the readings are a sign of dead electrics above??

in previous posts there were no readings at the cdi unit from the stator wirings' plug,
but the stator readings, from the plug on the stator loom to the stator were fine (going by links from yourself and other threads here on MR that i found)

i listed how to check the loom wiring between the stator plug and the cdi,
but im not sure if he checked them?
or if they were checked the results were not posted after he did?
im thinking, maybe the plug and socket and terminals were replaced? but a wire is broken inbetween?

very hard to diagnose if checks arent done

another thing, following on from loaces post
when the carb was replaced, was the fuel tank flushed well?
is there a fuel filter between the fuel tap and tank?
if no filter is fitted, maybe crud is blocking the fuel line to the tap
possibly a blocked needle/seat or you could have a blockage in the carby jets

have you undone the drain screw in the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb to check you have fuel in there?



craig
 
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and yeah,
zpitfighter if you can afford to, just keep replacing stuff till it's all brand new, then it should start. lol, ($$$$)

yes, there are a few things it could be
but you really need to check each thing thoroughly to diagnose the problem, to work out the solution needed.
sorry i havent been on for the last week and a bit to help you out more, but been too busy myself

craig
 
By watching the video it sounds like its a fuel problem to me.

Is ze fuel kleeen? If in doubt, drain that tank, lines and carby (Drain screw on the bottom of the bowl)!

Check lines are not blocked, replace fuel filter (If there is one).

Replace the spark plug...even if you think its alright! And test the lead too, if you havnt done that already.

Other then that, be sure you do indeed have the right carby on it and check the jet sizes etc. And maybe take it apart just to check everything looks ok.
 
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