"H-Bomb" exhaust

[WyldOne]

Where can I buy a H Bomb Exhaust really cheap besides ebay?

 

[sus1]

the 1s at east50s arnt gen....

i put a pipe and muffler of my mates subaru.. sounds pretty mean

 

[Pitst3r X4]

This is what a H Bomb Looks Like on a Pitster Pro X4.

It was a challenge to get it on the pipe, but once i have run it in, I will take it off and re-fit it so hopefully it will go on the pipe further.

 

[matty06]

looks good mate, but they are known to brake

 

[Pitst3r X4]

Yeah, i was told that if you are not careful, they will stuff up easily.

 

[WyldOne]

Is the cannon actually made of carbon fibre? and where does it break?

 

[motoluver]

This is what a H Bomb Looks Like on a Pitster Pro X4.

It was a challenge to get it on the pipe, but once i have run it in, I will take it off and re-fit it so hopefully it will go on the pipe further.

Yours is going to break around the pop rivets because the bracket is too close to the end of the muffler. It happened too my mates H-bomb what was using a five-0 crf50 frame.... All the fakes end up braking around the pop rivets but yours will happen after a couple of rides because of where the bracket is located...

 

[Cactus Jack]

They must be made of fake junk (glass fibre bonded with solidified squashed silk worm resin) .... Genuine carbon fibre is as tough as and flexible ... It's used on F1 cars due to its strength and impact resistance ....

 

[corey58]

to bad it not mark webber impact resistance at he might finsh a race

 

[Pitst3r X4]

Yours is going to break around the pop rivets because the bracket is too close to the end of the muffler. It happened too my mates H-bomb what was using a five-0 crf50 frame.... All the fakes end up braking around the pop rivets but yours will happen after a couple of rides because of where the bracket is located...

This one is actual carbon fibre (so I was told), and as i said before once i have run it in and the metal has expanded etc, I'll be able to push it in further. I don't like where the bracket is now but that is as far as i can put it on cause it is a REALLY tight fit.

Does anyone know how I can somehow shave a thin layer off the part where the muffler connects to the pipe therefore make it a bit easier to fit? or is that just a dumb idea and I will have to kinda shimmy it on??

 

[Cactus Jack]

Get some cloth backed sanding belt or tape and give the inside of the muffler fitting a hand sand until it gets a bit easier to put on the pipe ... Don't over do it as you want it to be a neat fit to prevent gas leaks ... OR you could sand the O/D of the pipe instead ... Just wrap the sanding belt over the pipe and sand around the outer diameter like how you'd dry your back with a towel ... that way it follows the curve of the pipe ... Do a bit ... check the muffler fit ... do a bit more etc until you can twist the muffler on but still with a tight feel ...

EDIT:

Just to add a bit more info ... You can buy "Flap" wheels in various diameters which go into the end of a drill for honing out pipes etc ....

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtNX&cmX46EV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--

Australian Industrial Abrasives :: Flap Wheels, Scotchbrite & Interleaved

You can ALSO get yourself a length of straight metal rod , round the end off , then carefully put a slit down the centre of it using a hack saw . Make the slit shorter than the width of the cloth backed sanding tape you have ... then slide the end of the tape into the slit and wrap it around the rod in the opposite direction of rotation .... You now have your own home made mandrel sander which will save you a heck of a lot of time and money ... Great for porting , cleaning up the inside of header flanges etc ...

I use an extension bar similar to these to get into hard to reach places ...

http://pacific.bund.com.au/ebay/3pcwoodext-1.jpg ...

It has a 6 mm hole bored in the end to suit grinding stones , rotary burrs etc ... The bits are held in by two grub screws (ground flush with the shaft) which you tighten , then slide a piece of plastic hose over to prevent the extension tool from hitting the inside of ports , intake manifold bores etc while you concentrate on removing metal from wherever ... It makes life a hell of a lot easier , allows you to see clearly and have better control over what you're doing , and is cheaper than paying out big for long shanked carbide cutters ...

 

[Pitst3r X4]

Thanks Cactus Jack, I will try that. I have those flap wheels in my Rotary tool kit so once I have some spare time I will give that a try, hope fully it will slide on a bit further because it is only on the pipe by about 1/2 a CM or just a bit more

Thanks.

 

[Pitst3r X4]

I got the muffler all perfectly fitted by using the flap wheel on my rotary tool,
Thanks again Cactus Jack

 

[Cactus Jack]

Great to hear mate ... I say to use a drill only because just about everybody has one ... I have a Makita Die grinder myself but the danged things rev too high ... So in a lot of cases I use a Ryobi variable speed drill since it gives me greater control ... Of course a variable speed dremel or pencil grinder would probably be better ... I use an el cheapo low voltage hobby grinder to get into really tight spots on heads ...