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how to reinforce / brace your frame

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realmenride50s

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this how u reforce your crf50 frame ive braced the subframe and the top of the main frame and welded the back of the sub frame and made a crade mount 4 it and u wont snap or bend that shit its better buying $500 or $600 frame i think







Edited. Links SUCK. direct embedding IS the way of the future. ;)
 
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unit_mx

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That easy ay? Ill just get Realmen to do mine , atleast his got all the templates and shit. Oi Adam do you know how to make a skid plate for a crf50 so it can only mount to the bottom end? My kitaco bore kit has no mounts on the cylinder so I can't run a conventional skid plate....
 

realmenride50s

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just cut it in the middie and put a pipe which just fits in side your frame and weld it then get a pipe the same size as your frame and weld it in aswell ezey
 

themountain

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wat ever i work with metel at work all day long sorry wat would i no
clearly the spelling suffer with it:p
...but seriously , if you write up something like this here ,its implicating everybodycan do that easiely...but you have to be a skilled worker to do so, if you want it right!... you know the guys here;) they think they have to cut , bolt and glue and everthing is good...like in kindergarden!!
 

SnItChY

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suggestion lil one's

if you cant weld or not confident in the process ,for gods sake go pay a dude who does it for a living to stick your metal together

what's worse a 100 dollar lose out of your wallet or a loss of your ability to walk?
 

realmenride50s

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i didnt mean hay eveybody go cut your frame in half its cool to do. i was just showing the guys wat u can do if u no wat you are doing. so if you dont no wat you are doing dont do it got it thanks
 

unit_mx

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This thread is good as no one up until now has actually created a thread of bracing your frame. There are heaps around but no one bother to put pics up or explain it so I think well done to Realmen for doing so. He can brace these frames for dirt cheap so if ya want someone for some welding experience get him to do it!
 

themountain

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Iam down on that one with you...let the man do some magic on your frames !!
Obviously he did a good job on his, so send him the stuff....for 120 you cant even get a cradle from cat5.....so give the guy something to do!!
 

Cactus Jack

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You can make up your own template by tracing the shape of a cradle from a twin pipe or trellis frame onto card board (breakfast cereal package) ..... then transferring it to steel ...... The biggest problem people at home with no oxy cutting gear will have is cutting out the curved top side since there's a HEAP of metal to remove if you want to cut it in one piece from a single plate .

The answer there is to make each side of the cradle in TWO pieces so that you can cut them out of cheap and easy to obtain .... FLAT BAR .... IF you make each side in two parts you can shape the metal using grinders ... then mate and weld them together ...... I'd shape the top part that attaches to the frame exactly the same shape as the original frame (unless you can leave additional metal on and clear the rear of the engine) then drill three holes into it ... one for the swingarm pivot tube , one for the brake lever pivot / chain roller shaft .... and the third for the rear engine mount bolt .... ( that's why you make them out of cardboard first ... to get the holes right ) ...

The MAIN thing you need to make sure of is that the front of the cradle sits flush against the underside of the engine ...... so that the top two engine mount holes are aligned .... You DON'T want to have the cradle pulling on the engine cases and top mount (pre loading them) when the bolts are tightened ..... And IF the cradle has ANY up and down movement in it at all ..... then it'll be doing diddly squat to take the load off the top engine mount ....

And as to lengthening a frame .... the last place you'd cut it is in the middle where the most stress is concentrated (Snitchy's son learnt that first hand) ..... The best place would be around an inch or two from the steering head ..... then you'd use pipe inside the stock pipe and gussets cut from pipe to go over the outside of the stock pipe ... do the welding in short stages (back step skip sequence stitch welding) so as to not over heat and weaken the parent metal (original frame structure) ..... Anywhere that has welds ACROSS the the width of the tube will need to be gussetted or it WILL be severely weakened ....

TIG welding would be the best since it has the lowest amount of heat transfer ..... but good MIG welding can also minimise heat transfer if you do quick small welds ..... and you can also do stick welds in stages to minimise the heat spread ...
 

brucey_089

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i got mine profentionly done and tha my frame still cracked not a bad crack just above tha top engine mount wer tha two peices of metal join?? just below wer tha strenthen plate is thats wer it cracked but hopfully it dosent get any worst coz i canot b botherd replacing it
 

//BRAD\\

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hope this helps
i think gusseting the bottom was a bit overkill, if anyone has any criticism feel free to share it with me cos it will help others when doing theirs
 

SGONE

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^^ only problem i see with that is the the pegmount bolts up under the cradle oppose to on top of the cradle there for the strain of the riders weight is still on the 4 peg mount bolts which sometime's tends to cuase the bolt threads to become weak and strip out...another than that nice job the angle on top definatly wont bend..
another problem with crf50's is the motor mount bolt's they come with are significately smaller(1mm i think from memory) than the actual motor mount's on the motor there for causing the motor to move in the frame even when the bolts are done up tight. best thing to do is change the bolts to the correct size
 

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