In need of help re:broke oil drain plug bit

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yea well having a needle roller bearing means the difference between me spending $200 on a decomp system or not ;) so I think it's worth a looksy
 
true true, can put that 200 towards the 184cc upgrade kit or something fun.
just been on a bunnings/auto one run to find something to help pull/press these bearings and didnt have much luck... auto one had some pilot bearing pullers but they didnt look like they'd quight work ... and there 70bux :/ any ideas on a cheap way round this?
 
The smartest way to do it is to use heat to expand the alloy casing so that it lets go of the steel bearing ... You can heat around the outside of bearing bore with a good hair dyer set on high ... or use a paint stripper gun ... You can also dip the case half in super hot boiling water to achieve the same thing ... then quickly tap the bearing out using an appropriately sized socket or a piece or round pipe ... It's best to push on the bearing outer race if possible ... but if you can't ... tap gently on the inner race ...

Water does NOT harm engine parts as long as you dry them out with heat afterwards ... ie with a hair dryer or leave them in the hot sun ... Engine building joints wash parts in hot detergent water ...
 
yeah the roller bearing will come out pretty easy. they dont usually have that much crush on them.
but the needle roller will be a bit of a sht to get out without a press...

my advise would be to take to your local garage or engine shop (or anyone that has a press) and get them to do it....

id hate to see you destroy that needle roller bearing...
 
cheers sir cactus jack, got them in and out a treat with a butane torch ... carefully of course :)
 
If he can get at the needle bearing from the outside , he can use a socket , piece of pipe , thick washer or short piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in the centre that just fits inside the case bore but pushes only on the bearing outer ... then use another socket or piece of pipe and thick washer or drilled flat bar that clears the outer race on the inside and tighten a bolt and nut going thru everything ... That'll gently press the bearing out ... and he can put it into the new case using the same method ... Fitters have to improvise like that all the time since you can't take the job off site or take too long waiting around for specialised pullers and presses etc to show up ...

Another way to get tight bearings out (if he's going to chuck the broken case away) is to drill holes beside the bearing until it comes loose ...

It appears to me that he's not the type who'll take parts to shops for repair and wait ... otherwise he'd have stripped the engine and taken the broken case half to a machine shop to have it repaired ... A decent repairer could easily have machined the broken drain plug boss off and welded a new threaded bush on .. OR even fitted a threaded brass "Hat" bush thru from the inside out ...
 
Disregard my last post ... but others might be able to use the info ...

Knowing how weak those cases are ... it's a good idea to clean all oil off the drain bolt and wrap the thread with Teflon tape which will make it act like a Nyloc nut so that it'll never leak or vibrate loose ...

Then just nip it up lightly ... Silicone on the treads works the same way too ...
 
they probablly got more bashing than they should have to get in there but im sure there fine. wish i knew the socket with bolts etc method, sounds like it'd work a treat.
was figuring getting it welded rebossed etc would cost as much if not more than a new case ... would be strong at least i guess. didnt know about the bearing issues, got very lucky there ;)
thanks for all the tricks and tips, will definatlly use some teftape and be veryyy carefull if i ever get this motor running again.
 
having abit of dramas with the kickstart .. i tried to figure out how it worked before putting it back together and thought all was good, just got the side case and most of the gears besides clutch back on and it seems like something might not be right.
turn it to the left and it hits a dead end, to the right and the spring eventually starts engaging.
not to sure how else to explain it sorry.
 
hmm, id have to go out and semi assemble an engine to give you exact directions..
iv done it a million times(so to speak) but some things ya just do subconsciously and forget the finer details..

just keep fiddling, youll get it
 
problem is i never really got it in the first place, it could be set correct atm and i wouldnt know. it doesnt seem right at all though.
when i put the kick lever on and turn it to the right it starts to build up on the springs then hits a dead end. it should be springing the other way to get the lever back to it's start position right?
 
I haven't done a YX engine yet to know exactly how they're configured ... but a few years ago my brother was dicking around for days after replacing the tranny in his Loncin 110 ... and he copped the exact same problem ... he couldn't set the kick start mech up right ...

The mistake you've made is that you have to have the kick start shaft fully rotated clockwise (looking at it from the clutch cover side) so that it hits the stop at the top ... THEN attach the spring so that it has enough tension to hold the shaft in that position with the kick lever at the top ...

The Loncin had a cast piece that the outside hook of the spring attaches to ... which was splined to the shaft ... if you remove it off the shaft you put the indexing of it out of whack with the spring and the stop when you put it back on ... unless you mark everything before you pull them apart ...

Basically ... The inside hook on the spring hooks onto a part on the RHS centre case ... and the outside hooks onto the splined cast part on the shaft ... The stop is usually on the shaft so with that pushed hard against the case (clockwise) the splined cast part has to be rotated anti - clockwise until the spring applies enough tension to hold the lever at the top ...

IF everything is fixed solid on the shaft or configured differently to a Loncin ... you have to rotate the shaft clockwise until it hits the stop at the top ... then pull the spring around anti-clockwise and hook it onto the part on the shaft that it's meant to hook onto ... If it's set right , the shaft will spring back to the starting position when you rotate it anti-clockwise ...

So what you're doing is winding the spring back anti-clockwise just enough so that it pulls the kick shaft and lever clockwise until the shaft hits the stop at the top and holds it there after a kick ...

Don't over-do the tension or the spring can eventually fatique and break at the bottom of a kick ...

Are you confused ? ... 'cause I am ATM ... LOL ... I've got a fuzzy headache and sore eyes ...

XR75 Hondas are set up in a similar way ...

I had relatives stuff my XR's kicker up once when I had to go to hospital for two weeks and leave the bike at their place ... The kick lever would go down and stay down ... I tore the engine down and replaced the spring which was broken ... but it still had a binding problem on reassembly ...

I frigged around with it , removing all the gears etc thinking the case halves and clutch cover weren't aligning or something ... then re-assembled it with only the kicker in place ... It turned out that the wankers had somehow bent the kicker shaft right on the other end inside the engine where it went into the LHS case ... XR shafts are really thick and strong so it bent where it stepped down to go into the LHS case ... The ONLY way they could have done that is if they were kicking the engine with the clutch out in gear ... I'd never had the slightest problem before even with hi comp big bore kits ...

Notice how reliable the non kick in gear engines are ? ... That's because fools can't do what was done to my XR ...
 
yeah im pretty sure you have to preload the kick mech as your putting it in...
and with the engine sitting in front of you clutch side closest, the kicker obviously works turning to the left..
 
owchh my head hahaha, ive read ure post about 15 times now jack and i think im starting to get it hehe.
going to strip it back down and get stuck into it tommorow at least it changes gears and everything else seems to work/go back together fine ...
woww that's one hell of an effort, i thought i was stupid for busting the drain plug, but i dont feel so bad now hahah poor bike tho :(
 
As Sean said ... it's easier to actually do it than to explain how to do it ... We just do things automatically without having to think about it ...

When you get the clutch cover off , post up some pics so we can see how it works ... then we can tell you how to do it in simple terms ...
 
Thanks guys, havent had time to get the head/cylinder off yet .... just the side cover, clutch etc ... at this point you can carefully pull the starter unit out of the gear mesh (if this makes sense) this changes how the starter mech works, i can get some spring back like it needs ... but as soon as you start putting the clutch back on and theres compression it stops working.

Hopefully these pics make things a little easier.
Cheers

Picture229.jpg


Picture220.jpg


Picture227.jpg
 
you havent preloaded the spring at the bottom.. see in pic 1..
im pretty sure you have to preload the spring clockwise and there should be a shoulder for it to stop on
 
only just had a chance to try and finish off the engine tonight ... got the kick start working a treat thanks for your help guys. and i screwed up by making photobucket albums woops, will fix that tommorow.

have a couple of quick questions .. should there be any play in the outer comp, the whole thing can wobble back and forth. im sure im not missing any bits. is it just like this till the side case is on??

since i got the cam sprocket & chain back on i cant (by hand) crank the engine at all with the kick start .. am i a big girly wuss or does it sound like something wrong.
 
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