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The blind bearings you might get out by heating around them then holding the case in both hands with gloves and giving the case a light tap on a timber bench.
 
if you are replacing the blind bearing, and have some Sikaflex 227 handy
degrease the bearing, then run some sikaflex into the bearing cage and let it harden, this will seal the bearing off.
then fill the bore of the bearing with thick grease,
next, find a shaft that just slides into the inner race
now gently tap it in and the pressure of the shaft against the grease will push the bearing out,
it might need a second lot of grease if it only moves a little the first time.
i remove my car flywheel spiggot bearings the same way
you could also use the Sikaflex type epoxys
 
The easiest way I have ever seen to get them out is grab the cases and put them in an oven on 100 degrees for like 20-30 mins. They will fall out after that.
 
Okay, i was sick of this comical issue .. https://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/T7TO4N0BL/title/torpedo7-blind-bearing---bushing-remover-set soon to be in the mail..
I tried the 100 deg oven trick :D still stuck solid..
Even put a corresponding shaft in there (tight fit) ****ed it a little to get it to hold and heived with all my might.. no go.. not even a budge :p i don't think it has spun in the past as it rotates nicely beats me why its so tight..
lucky it was on special.. Any way i am likely to need that tool in the future.
 
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I have a bearing puller man. Take a trip to my joint. I had the same problem with mine $120 later :/
 
Far out my phone didn't load this page. Disregard that last post hahaha
 
Another box of bits arrived :D
This time its from the wreckers.. from a donor yz 426
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Apon first inspection.. looks good.. almost usable :p Untill on close inspection reveals the reason the bike was sold to the wreckers :D
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Aha. a burnt.. and most likely bent center shift fork..
What caused this? I had a look at the center gear (4th i believe) and found the dogs to be warn down quite a bit : (No pic camera sucks)

Not that any of that damage affect me, i only need the countershaft. no gears.. Time to remove the gearset and install the wr gearset that i personally had never seen assembled before :D

Now so i do not mess up i have taken apart the yz gearbox and laid it out:
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Little sucker of a circlip :p There was only about 3 of them on the gearset and the shims seemed to be in logical places, eg if the gear slides up on the circlip there is a washer/shim there to keep the gear tight on the shaft (so it can still slide easily) And to stop it wearing and possibly catching on the circlip.

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All apart, To work out what gear went where approx i had got my clutch side wr shaft, and then laid them on top of the shaft until it all made sense and looked like i could fit a shaft in there. its pretty hard to mess it up but first time assembling without seeing it first makes this step necessary.

Here is a pic of that all important shaft. Also my circlip pliers. I had to modify them to make them work with the smaller dia circlip holes. this was testing but in the end i got the shape correct and makes them easy to install/take off.
For first timers with circlips you want to open them as little as possible and with your spare hand keep the circlip straight when removing/installing. no point in bending it.
However i replaced my circlips (Necessary most times) some times they become loose on the shaft and you do not want to run like that and let it pop off and let all your transmission gears and probably entire engine pop out of your cases.
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But wait, there is more. The clutch side needs one gear replaced.. Due to one dodgy gear dog face (the gear next to it is replaced to as because it is no longer square) sometimes if you get it in time the female gear will be fine to use. No pics of that However it was similar process to above.
Finally what i have been waiting to see for some time. and what i wanted to see when i first got the box of bike.
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Still awaiting for my blnd bearing puller.
Also installed my new swingarm bearings..etc. Finally the bike can roll.
Bled the brakes.. it took forever and they don't have the best feel but will see when im riding..
Wouldn't mind a newer model bikes brakes anyway.

The price of back cutting the gears may be too much right now. i may just use the transmission i have now, and then get another down the track. (is going to cost me around 500 apparently)

Once my bearing puller arrives i can remove the old transmission bearing and install the new.. then assemble the rest of the motor.
 

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Bearings out, came out with 3-4 slides of the hammer.. Wonderful tool to own.
How did your bike finish up reiley?
 
After test fitting the gearbox a few times, i found out the right shifter fork was getting a little bound up in the case (From prior damage from some gears jumping).
To rectify this and smooth out the edges... I Got some 1500 grit sand paper (really handy to have around) And my dremel with the screw head bit.. folded the sand paper over a few times and got it to grip on the screw head, i now have a really fine flapper wheel.
A couple of passes with the die grinder. A good clean up and its as smooth as silk.

If it was a newer bike i probably would have replaced the cases.. however the rebuild is already costing alot.. need some results before i go dumping too much more into it.

More parts will be in the mail soon
 
Fat our mate. Tolly you it would cost a lot.

Could have just brought a ready to go 2nd hand bike.

Will have to go hit some trails when it's ready. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Here is the new "Parts bike"
Its a 98 yz 400.. in pretty good nik. The bike runs mint.. Almost no issues all weekend got it for a decent price too almost $500 + what it was going to cost me to get aftermarket tank and seat etc..

The one problem is is that the de-comp shaft retaining bolt threads in the head were knackared.. and so is the seal.. I rode it all weekend while it was weeping oil.. not at a alarming rate..

Come up for a ride motorman.. most likley going next weekend or just sat night all depends on work.. bring a quiet pipe if possible..

I have a helicoil kit for the head and a new bolt from one of my many spare heads..

The wr is still going to be built like normal and as planned.. maybe using the yz tank just to go through roady.. but boy is that tank small.. 3 hrs or so of riding and it needs more fuel..

The yz rides very well but with me almost being shot over the bars i had to adjust the rear suspension spring rate as it must have been a heavier owner before me.. also i have the forks maxxed out on soft setting and shocker.. so i think the oil is quite heavy.. not to my liking much.

The yz also does not like a moment stationary or doing normal idling while opening a hard to access gate that takes more than 1 min will equal to coolant dripping form the radiator.. and that is not to my liking

The tyres are dot approved and cracking.. however i have the rear from the wr that could do.. still waiting for the knobs to fall off.

Power isnt too mad but its safe to say if i had more i don't think it would improve a lap time :D
i can lift the front to 3rd gear.. and in 4th it requires a little encouragement with a push down on the bars.. (maybe a clutch up i didnt try)

Now im not too sure on the gearing as in weather it still retains yz stock transmission parts.. (sounds like it) but the gearing is 15 - 48 or 45 and 1st is too long to comfortably go down technical trails.. and 5th is enough to go down a washboard road at probably as fast as you want to go (id say atleast 100 at crusing rpm) then if you open up you question the power of the (i think stock) mitsubishi brakes that dont feel up to the task.

I think i will fit the 426 brakes because they use nissans components and is probably better. if not oversized will have to be fitted.

I really dont like the 3hr approx ride time i get.. for the wr it may be necessary to fir 05 plastics etc with the 26 ltr tank. i want a tank that could last atleast 8 hrs..

The 400 engine is quiet as a bee in terms of engine noise (will open after a few more hrs.. But is just parts bike was not purchased for motor) However the pipe is a different story. i do not want a bike that i will be able to ride for only a few rides before the council cracks the **** and neighbours etc. will be fitting a stayintune exhaust for my next outing.

Quite glad with my purchase... did quite a few hours riding this weekend and discovered some new trails. i need rec reg but will wait to get full reg instead of changing stators etc only to go back a few months later.
Even the chain and sprockets are in good nik.. and will not require replacement
 

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Hmmmm sounds like a trip out riding with the big bikes is needed.
 
Hmmmm sounds like a trip out riding with the big bikes is needed.
And possibly pitties..
Sound needs to be restricted to stock mufflers if possible. Especially for the pit bikes.. and or inserts in place..
Going to go to the stayintune pipe on mine.. And another route outside of property is in earshot of alot of houses and to keep locals happy you need to be a little quiet till you get up into the wilderness.. :)

Motormans 450 would be probably okay at lower rpm till up in the wilderness but if it sounds like his fmf pitbike then there would be a issue :D
 
My 2 stroke might be a tad loud then haha. And my pitty won't be allowed. The yoshi muffler on it is so damn loud.
 
2t would be fine, Love the sound of the 2t just need to wait to get into the wilderness to open it up too much..

Or a short stint at the property for a few hrs or so..

Been ages since i have heard a 2t on song

Would prefer if the muffler had fresh packing to help with the noise though
 
Sweet as ill re-pack it before heading up. It will still be bloody loud.
When it hits band you better get some ear muffs
 
Repacked mine. but it's a PC shorty, still loud as buggery, haha
 

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