my new/used Yamaha PW50 thread

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thanks,
but the pics don't show up all the little things like the bubbling tank stickers, the dirt on the head, and he old tyres etc.

when we went riding with stoozo, Cj asked us why he had the plastic hand guards on his bike.
we told him to stop his hands getting hurt if he falls off, to stop him breaking the brake levers, and to stop his hands getting hurt if he hits a branch etc
well it's lucky i fitted them, i think he dropped the bike 4 times.
he got bogged and slipped in the soft dirt going up a couple of jumps, and around the berms a couple of times.
no damage done......besides a few scratches on the front of each hand guard.
 
my67xr said:
thanks,
but the pics don't show up all the little things like the bubbling tank stickers, the dirt on the head, and he old tyres etc.

when we went riding with stoozo, Cj asked us why he had the plastic hand guards on his bike.
we told him to stop his hands getting hurt if he falls off, to stop him breaking the brake levers, and to stop his hands getting hurt if he hits a branch etc
well it's lucky i fitted them, i think he dropped the bike 4 times.
he got bogged and slipped in the soft dirt going up a couple of jumps, and around the berms a couple of times.
no damage done......besides a few scratches on the front of each hand guard.
Click to expand...

Yeah I didnt see him drop the bike at all sunday! I think he was just wondering why his bike has them and ours dont :thumbup: yeah the bike looks pretty good. Defineatly need to post it up in the photocomp sometime soon!
 
it's in the FOTM (fifty of the month) atm, just waiting for 3 more entrants
 
i got an reply from my Paypal dispute
apparently the Reeds are in Australia but they cant tell me much more.

they have said- So we can send you a new item and hope it arrived or you get your money back.
For the other Item we must make a following to look where the item is.

We are sad that many Items from us are away


i have opted for another Carbon Reed to be sent...
 
Such a nice little bike. Didn't even see you had a spare stator for me, bugger.
 
oh well,
at least you can try out the Inner Rotor Kit on yours first, and let me know how good they are !
 
my67xr said:
oh well,
at least you can try out the Inner Rotor Kit on yours first, and let me know how good they are !
Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't really want to go second hand and have more problems but if I found out you had one I would have go that to save money and then sell my bike. But I think I have spent too much on it now to sell it and it's just too fun lol. I will let you know how this rotor kit goes. It should be here with in two weeks :D keen
 
so the Carbon Fibre Reeds came yesterday
just need to pull the tank and seat off to fit them now




and i have an Inner Rotor Kit that i am going to try and adapt to the PW too.
 
my67xr said:
so the Carbon Fibre Reeds came yesterday
just need to pull the tank and seat off to fit them
Click to expand...

At least they finally came! Still waiting on parts from China and tassy. Would have been here by now if not for bloody public holidays!

Sent from my WT19i using Tapatalk
 
i fitted the Carbon Reeds yesterday and Cj has tried them out.
it's made the throttle a bit snappier now, powerband comes on a bit harder too.

just needs some more tweaking



i made up the new H/D clutch springs today and fitted them, should put the PW into powerband as it engages





also modified the friction material area, halved it, so when the clutch engages it bites hard.







made another thick base gasket for the cylinder, raising it will help improve the exhaust flow and let it clean out better





and since i couldn't sell the IRC fat rear tyre i had, i tried it out today, it does fit, only just !







now i need another for the front, lol
 
It's so awesome. Have you fitted up the clutch yet ? I wanted to do that to mine but didn't have enough info on it. Well done
 
thanks,
yeah he is pretty happy,
he is having to lock up the rear wheel and grab the front brake too to slow down in the backyard

i haven't fitted the clutch on yet, engine needs to come out again to do it
i will let you know how it goes,
if the H/D springs are any good, i'll make up another pair and send to you ricky if you want some.
 
Awesome. I inboxed you about it to :) I'm planing to have my engine out for the next two weeks so i'm keen to do some stuff to it while it's out so if they work good I will get some :) It's so tempting to keep spending money on them aha
 
ok, i read your pm.
there are 2 different strength clutch springs available aftermarket,
a softer one (lighter rate spring) so it engages early (i don't see the need for this)
and the heavy duty set, this uses stronger spring, and makes the clutch engage at a higher rpm.
the PWs' can be a little slow on take off, this will be like putting a high stall torque convertor in your car.
it will make the bike take off close on when it reaches powerband when it is making it's most torque.

i will take some pics as i go when i fit the new clutch.
and post them up here.

the r/h engine cover needs to come off, so engine out.
undo the screws and take it off, might need a new gasket just incase you tear the old one.
once the cover is off you will see the clutch flywheel, it is held on by a circlip, take the flywheel off and the clutch is sitting there.
flywheel is the part in focus here, and the circlip sits in the slot to hold it on



here is the clutch, this pic is borrowed from Thumpertalk

pw5019.jpg



swapping the springs is easy, lever it open a bit with a screwdriver then unhook one end.
and refit them the same way


the other mod i am trying is taking half of the friction material off.
i took the clutch off and carefully ground the friction material off with an angle grinder, then dressed it with a fine file
apparently this mod isn't really noticable in the clutch life too, so shouldn't wear much quicker.

the guy that posted up the spring mod in Thumpertalk said he couldn't really notice it engaging later but his son was very happy with it.
his son races his bike as a motard on a bitumen race track.
 
my67xr said:
ok, i read your pm.
there are 2 different strength clutch springs available aftermarket,
a softer one (lighter rate spring) so it engages early (i don't see the need for this)
and the heavy duty set, this uses stronger spring, and makes the clutch engage at a higher rpm.
the PWs' can be a little slow on take off, this will be like putting a high stall torque convertor in your car.
it will make the bike take off close on when it reaches powerband when it is making it's most torque.

i will take some pics as i go when i fit the new clutch.
and post them up here.

the r/h engine cover needs to come off, so engine out.
undo the screws and take it off, might need a new gasket just incase you tear the old one.
once the cover is off you will see the clutch flywheel, it is held on by a circlip, take the flywheel off and the clutch is sitting there.
flywheel is the part in focus here, and the circlip sits in the slot to hold it on



here is the clutch, this pic is borrowed from Thumpertalk

pw5019.jpg



swapping the springs is easy, lever it open a bit with a screwdriver then unhook one end.
and refit them the same way


the other mod i am trying is taking half of the friction material off.
i took the clutch off and carefully ground the friction material off with an angle grinder, then dressed it with a fine file
apparently this mod isn't really noticable in the clutch life too, so shouldn't wear much quicker.

the guy that posted up the spring mod in Thumpertalk said he couldn't really notice it engaging later but his son was very happy with it.
his son races his bike as a motard on a bitumen race track.
Click to expand...

Thanks heaps :) This guy is a legend if you don't all ready know aha.

I had a thought. I do stuff to cars and i'm kinda adapting that knowledge to motorbikes. I'm thinking that if we are doing all these mods to a peewee and making them have more horse power, clutch mod ect. It will put a lot of extra stress on stock parts. I know with cars when you do something awesome, some times the stock parts can't take the extra stress and then fail.

I'm thinking that we could start to see some problems. lol more with mine because i'm so big and heavy for it aha. I know these engines are meant to be really strong but just how much can they take before you start getting weak links ?

I'm just scared that bits will start failing and need more work done to them.
 
with the big bore 44mm kits i cant see a problem there,
they are a copy of the YF60 YT60 Yamaha engines, which happily do 10,000kms+ on their 1st piston
the engines are pretty much the same as the PW engines.

porting is helping the engines' efficiency, and helps add torque
higher compression has never hurt engines, it helps to burn more of the fuel they use, again increasing efficiency, unless they were badly tuned
remember the XY GT engines didn't fail earlier than the XY Falcon 351 engines due to having bigger cams, heavier duty clutches, and more compression etc

the PW50 engines were designed to not need a lot of mechanical maintenance
and for your and my PW's they have been going for 30+ years now, and would have copped quite a bit of abuse/neglect.
with the clutch spring mod, using a heavier spring will increase the life of the clutch due to less slippage.
removing some of the friction material doesn't seem to hurt them
one of the guys that i read about doing this mod his son has raced 4 seasons with a lot of wins, and couldn't see any adverse effects
i'm pretty sure my PWs' clutch would be the original, if grinding down the friction area halved the life of the clutch, then i think after 15 years of use i would still be happy to replace it.

Yamaha could have done these mods to the bikes when they made them, but due to production costs, re labour/time etc they wouldn't have been worth it.
now days you can get factory made upgrades for your bike, like the Yamaha GYTR products etc


the sort of mods we are doing aren't really adding a lot of horsepower too,
they are just things that help it along the way, kind of like blueprinting an engine
 
Yeah I guess so. I haven't had a look at the clutch yet. I'm thinking it might be all ready done on mine as some of the other cheap things have been done to help it along.

Do you know how to find out the year of the bike ? Some say there is numbers on the wheel but I got two sets of rims with mine :/
 
what are the first 4 digits on the head tube ?
and are they the same as the numbers/letters stamped into the case on the underside of the engine ?
 
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