PitsterPro XTR 150?

[low_rb]

Also i pulled the side cover off to check the strainer nd clean the rubber out and this bit fell out, is this where it goes?
Been looking at the PDF but cant see it in there.

 

[my67xr]

Have you checked the float level yet?
The float's should be sitting parralel to the fuel bowl mounting face with the float tab just toughing the pin in the needle (needle and seat)
If the float level is wrong that will affect the way the bike run's, too high float level and it'll run rich, too low float level and it'll run lean

I don't know why an earth lead would have power to it ?
The bike wouldn't run with it connected to earth if that was the case.


Does your bike have a rubber boot sealing the throttle cable to the top of the carby ?
If not that can also let the carby run lean at different rpm's, especially if it has a worn slide

If you are going to get an Oko for it and keep it a 160cc, i'd go for the Oko 26mm




Yeah that spring loaded bush sit's in the end of the crank and push's onto the inside of the clutch / r/h engine cover
It's shown on page 11 here, part number's 14 &15
http://www.dhz.com.au/assets/usermanual/OUTLAW160R_z160HO_Engine_Diagram.pdf

 

[low_rb]

The float level was checked.
The problem wasent that it was running lean, it was running way to rich even with the needle clip in the top notch
Since i machined the inside of the slide to drop the needle and lean it off its alot better.

My Mechanic pretty much said i could fix it but id be better off $$$ wise to just put a new OKO on and have a starting base where all values are known.
A mate of mine(mechanic) who works for the local honda/kawa/yamaha dealer came round and played with it, said pretty much the same thing.

That lead isnt a earth, its a power wire that was earthed,made no difference to anything when i un-earthed it

Glad i got that bush in the right place, there was only 2 holes it went in and that seemed the logical one as it lined up with the recess in the outer case.

m67xr- i read the tutorial you done on the clutch rubber replacement, where can i buy the rubbers? Ive googled but cant find anything and i dont have another clutch i can strip for parts

 

[my67xr]

Nobody make's the h/duty rubber's anymore as far as i know.
The rubber i used were from a Lifan 125 Primary driven gear, CRF70 primary driven gear's are the same but Honda quality.
You could also make up some urethane damper's too if you're good at diy

 

[low_rb]

Im not real fancy with stuff like that but i may have no other choice, Dont realy want to spend $80 on a new clutch if i dont have to though

 

[low_rb]

How thick are the new rubbers same height as the posts they sit around?

Pulled it down and found this



Ive got some heavy duty rubber mats here tht might fit the bill. Been sitting in the sun for got knows how long and they still havent perrished.
Knocked up a couple "U" shaped ones to see how id go and should be allright.

 

[my67xr]

Yeah they are the same height as the post's.
Not a lot of rubber is oil proof, it soften's and fall's apart, the buffer's are made with a combination of rubber's with a high percentage of Nitrile rubber which is oil proof.

 

[low_rb]

Ive got a peice of of the rubber sitting in oil so ill use that to keep an eye on it.

Got a OKO 26 ordered for it, what jet sizes should i start with?

Is there anywhere i can buy blue rims? Done want to buy a whole wheel as i wont need the hub

 

[my67xr]

You will need to have that oil heated to at least 80° C too to simulate the engine temp's when it's running

I'd try a #38 pilot and a #102 or #105 main with the Oko 26

 

[Trains]

could you use some sort of Silicon? as far as im aware silicon is pretty resistant to oil and fuel. not sure how it goes with high temps though.

 

[my67xr]

Normal automotive silicon's swell with petrol.
You need a Urethane similar to what's used in Nolathane suspension bush's etc, but one that can be immersed in hot oil and wont soften.
There would be a special type/formula for it on the net i'm sure, i'll need to look into it more when i get some spare time for my own bike's.

You may be able to modify some like these Hinson Cusion's, but at the price you're better off with a new clutch set
Dirt Bike 2005 Honda CRF250R Hinson Clutch Basket Cushions | MotoSport
Wiseco have a cheaper set , but whether they'd fit or not is another question
Clutch Basket Cushion Kit - Banshee

 

[low_rb]

I'll see how this goes I know they are resistant to hydrolic oil and other cap I used to use.
I do have a few old urethane engine mounts I could use but I need to find a way to slice it up.

yeah, the price of those I'd just get a new clutch


And is there anyware I can buy blue rims? seen what's on ebay but I only want the rims and use the current hubs

 

[my67xr]

There's not too many place's that'll just sell the rim's, especially anything decent.
There are cheap wheel set's on ebay, but you get what you pay for with the cheap one's.
Maybe keep an eye out for a set of coloured used rim's off a Motovert or similar?

Here is a good quality TBR 14" front rim for $100 inc delivery
Brand NEW TWO Brothers Racing 14" Aluminum Motorcycle RIM | eBay
Decent Excel rim's are around $140
Or you could get a complete set of wheel's off DHZ for $185
Blue Rim Blue Hub 14" Front 12" Rear Wheel Set ? Buy Online Australia at DHZ

 

[low_rb]

Hmmmm, the complete DHZ wheel set might be the best option.

Not to keen buying from the US until the AU $ goes up. I want some bits for my KTM that I can only get direct from there but waiting until the rate is better.

Got the wires sorted today so just need a kill switch now and I cut out the plug for what I gathered was a gear indicator? Round black thing behind the stator cover.

Also discovered I could mod a ktm swing arm chain slider to fit.

 

[low_rb]

So i need some advice again.

Got a OKO 26mm and new timing chain from DHZ today.

Go to fit the chain and its even loser than the one that was on it when i got the bike. No way i would run it as just turning it over by hand the chain had enough slack to jump teeth.
Rang them and came to the conclusion that the head/barrel must have been decked, only thing that made sense.

Got the OKO fitted up, left the #36 pilot in and changed the main to the #105 i had, starts and runs alot better but still misses at part throttle.
If i cruise along in 2nd at a jogging pace and snap the throttle right open it just misses and wont gain or lose speed but if i roll it on through the gears it still does it but once it gains some rpm its fine

 

[my67xr]

You really need to swap the pilot jet and tune that first, then you can play around with the main jetting
You'll need a #38 pilot jet, maybe a #40, to get rid of the stutter/bog when you accelerate.

Not sure what is going on with your timing chain though.
Any pic's ?

 

[low_rb]

Camera wouldn't focus but you can see the difference.

Left one was fitted when i got it.
Right one was the one my local shop got me.
And the one from DHZ was a tad longer again, i forgot to take a pic of all 3

All of them have 45 links and are 6.5mm center to center of the pins

 

[my67xr]

The original timing chain, how much does it curve ?

This pic show's a new chain on the top and an old stretched chain on the bottom

 

[low_rb]

 

[my67xr]

Definatly stretched ^^

I have to check with you, you are resetting the tensioner before refitting it to the cylinder?
So it look's like this (forget about the manual adjuster top section)