There is something wrong with my head. It just isnt right.

[logicquests]

O.K.

I bought a piece of rubbish bike from ebay.

125. 12/14. Would start but very roughly.

It is a basket case. I mainly bought it for parts though so i am not all that sad about it.

The inlet manifold had a heap of silastic holding it on. The reason all this silastic was there was due to one of the threads being stripped in the head where the manifold attaches. They had used a self tapping metal screw to hold it on. That would be my kind of fix to though so I cant be all that unhappy about it.

It appears the bolt may have snapped off inside the threaded hole. Not ideal either.

So far I have bought a tap and die set but saw this as a bit of a lost cause. Beyond my skill level considering the bolt is snapped off inside the hole.

If anyone has any grand ideas that can save my head, please feel free to offer them. I will gladly sign the medicare slip at the end of our session.

Mrs Logic( I like to call her Mrs illogical) just walked by and said I should buy a new one as there is no saving my head. She meant the one on my shoulders though.

Logic

 

[The_GDFP]

Possibly you could use the manifold, held by the other bolt, as a drill guide?
Accuracy isn't that critical, as the manifold bolt holes can be enlarged to allow alignment of port. Worst case, you bugger it and swap for a cheap replacement.

As for the hat-rack, I have my favorite mix of psychotropics, that do a fair job. I still won't leave the house voluntarily and the voices are still there, but they all stay on topic, and take turns now.

 

[sean01]

the pics are very hard to see the damage and what you have left to fight with..

basically you need to be able to center punch the middle of the bolt and use like a 1/4' drill bit first to make a pilot hole, then slowly jump up a few sizes but you still want the hole a little smaller than the bolt size..

if you have any luck and keep the drilling nice and square you should be left with just the bolt thread left in the hole. most the time you can unwind that out with a small screw driver..

failing that a helicoil would be you next option.

failing that, drill the hole to like 10mm (if theres room) and youll need to find a brass fitting (block off fitting) and buy a tap to suit the thread.(ideally you would buy the brass fitting first)
loctite the brass block off in there and use the manifold for a guide to re-drill the new 6mm thread in the brass block off

lol this all sounds complicated but it isn't

 

[Stubsy]

what about using an easy out??

 

[sean01]

they create more drama's than there worth..

if you break one in there then theres no chance of getting it out without destroying everything lol

 

[Hillz]

i would drill those ****ers out & tap in a new bigger thread

 

[sean01]

problem with bigger bolts in the manifold is finding a bolt with a small enough head that wont interfere with the manifold tube.

some manifolds dont even allow the use of a 6mm bolt with a 10mm spanner head on it..

 

[Hillz]

problem with bigger bolts in the manifold is finding a bolt with a small enough head that wont interfere with the manifold tube.

some manifolds dont even allow the use of a 6mm bolt with a 10mm spanner head on it..

Rivets! :lol_hitting:

 

[Cactus Jack]

they create more drama's than there worth..

if you break one in there then theres no chance of getting it out without destroying everything lol

You CAN get broken off taps and drills out with a thing called a Spark Eroder ... It uses a screw-in needle electrode that goes down into the hole and is centred on the offending piece ... The electrode vibrates up and down while water is run in the hole ...

Hardened metal gets reduced to ash without any damage to threads ... Engineering Companies used them all the time to save expensive castings and fabrications ...

Learning about and using all types of machines was mandatory for apprentice fitter/machinists and toolmakers at CC Engineering ... I haven't seen a spark eroder in donkeys years but they'd still be around somewhere ... They're just something that not many people know about ...

Todays apprentices get taught sweet FA compared to what the old school guys had to learn ...

 

[Hillz]

You CAN get broken off taps and drills out with a thing called a Spark Eroder ... It uses a screw-in needle electrode that goes down into the hole and is centred on the offending piece ... The electrode vibrates up and down while water is run in the hole ...

Hardened metal gets reduced to ash without any damage to threads ... Engineering Companies used them all the time to save expensive castings and fabrications ...

Learning about and using all types of machines was mandatory for apprentice fitter/machinists and toolmakers at CC Engineering ... I haven't seen a spark eroder in donkeys years but they'd still be around somewhere ... They're just something that not many people know about ...

Todays apprentices get taught sweet FA compared to what the old school guys had to learn ...

sounds like a lot of work for a POS head,

 

[Cactus Jack]

Yeah I'm just lettin' people know that another method DOES exist ... 'can't have my fellow Aussies not knowing about this stuff ...

You wouldn't bother if the part 'aint worth the cost of repair ... But spark eroders aren't hard work ... See the small pic with the drill press thing ? ... That's the type I was trained to use ... It's as simple as drilling a hole ... only you're using an electric arc to burn the metal away instead ...

Metal Disintegrators

It should be cheap to get a bolt or tap removed by spark erosion ... but as we all know , the rip-off factor exists with motorcycle repair shops ...

Here's some more info found in a quick search :

Spark erosion or Spark eroding or electro disintegration on site mobile service

How to Extract Stuck Screws.

 

[MiniFighter]

Or you could just buy a new head and be done with it?

GENUINE LIFAN 125 CC ENGINE HEAD ASSEMBLY (eBay item 110478817269 end time 05-Mar-11 00:18:37 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

 

[logicquests]

You CAN get broken off taps and drills out with a thing called a Spark Eroder ... It uses a screw-in needle electrode that goes down into the hole and is centred on the offending piece ... The electrode vibrates up and down while water is run in the hole ...

Hardened metal gets reduced to ash without any damage to threads ... Engineering Companies used them all the time to save expensive castings and fabrications ...

Learning about and using all types of machines was mandatory for apprentice fitter/machinists and toolmakers at CC Engineering ... I haven't seen a spark eroder in donkeys years but they'd still be around somewhere ... They're just something that not many people know about ...

Todays apprentices get taught sweet FA compared to what the old school guys had to learn ...

Man. If my head didn't hurt before, it sure does now. lol.

I will have a better look at it today. Sorry the photos were not very good. I did try but had limited time.

It looks like the self tapping screw they used has gone to the side of the bolt making it very difficult to actually drill the bolt out.

If I can locate the top of the bolt I will try to drill into it and see how it goes. I broke a drill bit yesterday trying to get in there. That's how I discovered the rest of the bolt in there.

The plan, up to this point, was to drill down and re-tap. After my failure I thought I should consult with the experts. I don't know the condition of the rest of the motor so I am reluctant to go and spend very much on it.

Logic.

 

[logicquests]

O.K. I have just used some really small earth magnets to try and remove most of the metal in the hole. I still cant really see anything in there but it is pretty messed up.

The metal screw has sort of pushed the metal over and made the hole a lot larger than it was before.

Starting to look like either a new head, if I want to salvage this motor, or a new motor.

If I took it to a shop do you think they would be able to sort it out and work some magic?

Thanks again for all of your replies and if you would like some more pics. Lets me know.

logic

 

[BananaMan]

Where are you located logic?
we have spark erroders at work here (melbourne northern suberbs) and it is common practise to spark out bolts and insert a helicoil.
if you can get it to me i can see what i can do.

 

[BananaMan]

HANG ON A MINUTE.... just had a read of that quote from Cactus Jack...

sorry mate but that is not how spark erroders work, they actually use a copper or graphite electrode which is positively charged and never touches the part being erroded, there is a minute gap and when the spark fires (hundreds of sparks per second) it basically creates a cavity in the part and the excess material is washed away.

also its submerged in a dieletric fluid (similar in properties to kero), not water.

just wanted to clear that up, not having a shot at anyone..

 

[MiniFighter]

problem with bigger bolts in the manifold is finding a bolt with a small enough head that wont interfere with the manifold tube.

some manifolds dont even allow the use of a 6mm bolt with a 10mm spanner head on it..

If you can drill it out you could use an in-hex bolt? Would solve the clearence prob?

 

[logicquests]

Where are you located logic?
we have spark erroders at work here (melbourne northern suberbs) and it is common practise to spark out bolts and insert a helicoil.
if you can get it to me i can see what i can do.

Hi. I am in Sydney.

Happy to pay postage and whatever else is required I cant even see anything in there though. It looks quite mangled.

Logic.

 

[BananaMan]

Hi. I am in Sydney.

Happy to pay postage and whatever else is required I cant even see anything in there though. It looks quite mangled.

Logic.

ok mate,

if your happy to pay postage both ways i can have a go at repairing it for ya, no promises but with the machinery here at my disposal i probably have as good a chance as anyone.

i'll pm ya my address.

pete

 

[The_GDFP]

Looks to be the small-valve mid block head, common as crabs. If you don't find a satisfactory solution, cover postage ($45) and I'll donate a good one from the absurdly overstocked spares shelves here at GDFP World Headquarters. Your problem (that one, any how) will be solved, I'll have less crap to move about in, and I'll get another drop in my karma bucket. Thing's either got a hole in it or it evaporates too fast. Confirm displacement and/or stud pattern, but I've got a dozen or so of either type from new take-offs to fragged and sawed in half.