zacass's New Frame

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Now come on guys give 'im the benefit of the doubt ......... he could've been wearin' a flesh coloured G-string ........
 
I can see you had shoes on but I think you may be making up the bit about the pants!!!!!!!!!


ok then so u busted me ,doin a naked build hehehe

nar im pretty happy with it went together pretty easy tho it's a 2 man job
im gunna drop my rear shock on it ,it's 280mm so ill see if that raise's it's ass up.Should do as jack says the stock DHZ shock is only 270mm so theres my problem fixed i hope ,come to think of it i'll do it now that way if it dont work i got time to work somethin else out
 
ok then so u busted me ,doin a naked build hehehe

nar im pretty happy with it went together pretty easy tho it's a 2 man job
im gunna drop my rear shock on it ,it's 280mm so ill see if that raise's it's ass up.Should do as jack says the stock DHZ shock is only 270mm so theres my problem fixed i hope ,come to think of it i'll do it now that way if it dont work i got time to work somethin else out

pfft 2 man job lol
i done it for the second time today
 
ok i feel ill

yea 2 man job if u thunk u can drop a donk in a cradle frame on your own and hold the frame and get it to fit

uyou better n me jackie jackie
 
oh yer sean i got a new frame and donk today
the jialing is being turned ito a hp motor :)
 
cheers jack ill bang my fasty on it and see how she sits
i thought the dhz was 270mm ,np i'll grabe a new shock

yes it need raisin as it choppers the bike so stearing will be slow and no responcive ,zac wants to leave it but i know it wont work well

I checked a stock DHZ frame out and the top shock mount centreline protrudes 12 mm above the seat rail ....... it looks to be higher on your new frame ?????? Those dimensions are what you should really take a good look at when buying alternative frames ........

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y147/sneakysmurf/PIC_0134.jpg

If so , then that's a problem since it would mean that the actual seat high is lower on those grey single trellis railed frames ........ you'd need a longer than 280 mm shock to fix it .........

Some interesting pics of a Pitster frame with a GPX/YX 150 motor in it for people to have a gander at....

Putfile - Uploaded Picture
 
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heres my problem as jack stated
the top rear shock mount is higher hence the shock being to short

my idea is im going to get a pice of steal and bolt that onside the top shock mount .Put 1 bolt on the original hole and 1 bolt further forward

then exrtend the steal out past the original hole by 30 mm and in turn will make it possible for me to use a 270mm shock

all going as planed i hope ,it's no real biggy pluse the shock will be on a more an upright position so may work even better :)
 
id weld the hell out of it if u r goin to sit it on top
i would get the perfect size for the inside as the stock mount will cradle the new mount
 
it will need down straps to stop the mount tearing upwards
 
nar nar not on top in it

that mount i can slide a piece of steal through it then use the old bolt hole and make a new bolt hole infront of that ,u get me

i cant do photo shop so thats the best i could do

not on top of the mount
 
yuh i get u man
anyway good luck and be ready for the 8th lol
 
yeah even with it is inside the mount the leverage will still tear it out of the frame tube
 
You want the top bolt hole centreline to be 250 mm from the swingarm pivot centreline so it needs to go down a bit ...... On the stockers it's 15 mm forward of the seat hold down loops and 12 mm upwards off the seat rail .... of course the seat rail could be in a different position on the new frame .... SO ...

What you should do is :

1) Get your bike supported on a stand with the front wheel on the ground .....

2) Then with the rear shock off and the rear wheel on the ground , pack the centre of it (under the engine) to get the rear of it up until you get the desired seat height and steering rake angle .....

3) Then bolt the shock to the swingarm and swing it up to be inline with the existing top shock mount on the new frame and measure the distance between the top bolt hole centreline and the top shock eye hole centreline.... You can move the top mount centreline back a bit but try to keep the shock angle similar to the stock angle to avoid any weird shock shaft snapping or seal destroying problems .....

4) Make the plates out of cardboard or thin sheet first ...... it's easier to trim cardboard etc and if you stuff up it's easier to redo them ........ LOL ....... Once you get the templates spot on in cardboard ..... it's simple to trace them onto metal then cut them out ......... each side should be precisely the same anyway .... so I make one side then make the other to match ...... then vise grip them together to grind the edges even and drill the holes in one go ....

5) You could either bolt the new mount plates on using the existing top shock hole plus drilling another hole (3 bolt points including the shock eye) ..... or weld them on ....... which ever way you do it , take into account any added leverage which could cause the existing mount to crack or tear ...... a shock up the coit 'ole would give you a REAL SHOCK and be quite a traumatising experience ....... LOL .......but as you said .... it should a piece of cake to do the mod ....... :)
 
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this is my plan the blue part will be the new plates made out of 3 mm the green blobs will be the bolts to hold in place ,with spacers inside the original mount........the new hole will be 15 mm extension and should keep the shock on same angle ....also will move shock 5 mm frome frame ....so i made a cardbord cut out and easy peasy ill go to steal shop tommorrow and hook it up

thanks jack for the cardbord idea tho i do use that plan alot
 
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just my 2c...reprofile the back of the plates (yellow line) and weld at the base (purple line) to give more support and strengh. there is a good chance the adding the extra leverage of the long mount into the standard frame will cause the mount to stress and eventually break
 
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