1985 Xr600 Project

[GooseMan]

So I have put the whole finding the problem on hold for now until re assemble, I am in the process of sand blasting the engine, but I'm not entirely sure on what colours to go with. I like having the cyclinder silver and I was also thinking of having the gearbox a sort of broze colour? something similar to what takagewa us on thier engines, but maybe a bit darker? If you can picture that on my bike what are you opinions, was gonna have some bit chromed too, I might actually photoshop an example soon too.

 

[my67xr]

i have some Ford Mercury Silver, same gunmetal grey colour i used on my custom Orion.
i'll donate you 500mls if you want it,
i might be able to tint that close to the Takegawa colour.
you would just need to top coat it with 2 pack clear.

 

[GooseMan]

That wouldn't need to be heat proof would it? I want to spray it on and think a spray can would be the most practical and cheapest way to go unless I can't find the right colour, but thanks for the offer, I recon you would have better things to do anyway (peewee50):boink:

Have you ever tried clear coat on a cylinder? Just thinking of sandblasting that and a clear coat afterwards, but I'll see what it looks like when sand blasted, should be able to do that this week as I'm at trade school for a couple of weeks.

Or should I go a black or silver gear box?

like this.....

or

or a ducati bronze?

 

[GooseMan]

I'm thinking now that silver would be a little more modern?

 

[my67xr]

the 2 pack base coat i have is fine with heat, i have resprayed turbo rotary 12A and 13B engine rotor housings with it before.
2 pack clear will work on the bare alloy too, but the POR15 clear would be better.

the 2 pack clear can be bought from Lonsdale paint for around $25 in a pressure pack can.
i can get my grey basecoat put into a pressure pack too.

 

[my67xr]

also i'm not sure if you know this,
the factory header pipes on the XR's are stainless steel.
i polished up my mates XR400 header to a mirror finish for him, it looks sweet once you start using it, the polished finish discolours a bit in sections from the heat

 

[GooseMan]

I think I have decided to a black gearbox now.

 

[GooseMan]

Yeah, the old ones just got replaced with new stainless ones, not sure if I'll paint rm250 or polish them yet

 

[GooseMan]

Lol, just read my above post. That was supposed to be them not rm250??
Any way, back to the problem.....
In reference to the picture below, you will see the drum and the shift forks, now to select 5th gear the drum will need to turn clockwise. Thus pushing the centre fork over that hump on the drum.
However notice it is bolted. To the shaft and can not slide up or down. This stops the drum from turning, it will turn if I assist it by lifting the fork as I turn, but means the whole shaft will move with it. Is this normal?

Sent from my LT29i using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[GooseMan]

...................

 

[GooseMan]

Also everything else works flawlessly, I found one problem, a washer/ shim was put on the wrong side of one of the gears . Dunno if this would give symptoms like I was having? Anyway my trade school lecturer might be able to help me tomorrow.

 

[my67xr]

looking at the schematics, that bolt should be there.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1985-australia_model20202/partslist/E__1500.html#results

that bolt on the centre fork has a machined down end on it,
i think this might slide inside a slot on the shift fork rod
i wonder if the slot in your rod is worn ?

 

[my67xr]

the washer/shim on the wrong side sounds like it would be a problem
one link to a forum i posted above had that problem too, with a different gear though

 

[GooseMan]

It is a threaded hole through the shaft, I think it is supposed to slide the whole shaft itself. I'll try putting the cases together and see how it all works.

Sent from my LT29i using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[GooseMan]

Took it too mta (trade school) where I had a couple of lectures have a look and noticed that one of the forks had the slightest bend. SO I got a new set of forks and this hasn't really changed anything. The gear lever moves about one inch before not moving any further. I am completely out of ideas now.

Maybe I should try replacing one part at a time??

 

[GooseMan]

Well just in case somebody was held in suspense, waiting to find out what the problem is well I believe I have found out, lol. It was no.7 in this diagram.....
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr600r-1985-australia_model20202/partslist/E__1500.html#results
The little wheel thing that runs against the shift drum cam plate had about 5mm of play side to side. Just replaced it and the gearbox will shift through all gears as it should now with the exception of 4th and 5th which it gets a little stuck but I think with a little oil it may free up. (its just a dry fit atm).

Hopefully all going well I will have the thing going before this summer and go for a cruze!

 

[my67xr]

sounds like you've worked it out.
was it 5mm in and out movement ?
don't they have a spring that holds them firm into the star ?

 

[GooseMan]

Yeah that little wheel on the end of the arm can turn on a little pin, the constant spring tension pushing it against the cam plate I guess is what wore it out. The little wheel on the end now moves like 3mm in either direction as it has ovaled the hole in the centre. Sorry if that dosen't make sense, I need some sleep, bad :faint:

 

[GooseMan]

Hey I was just wondering how people polish the combustion area of their heads? like do you sit the valves in so you dont damage the seats, and what did you use to polish it? THanks

 

[my67xr]

i have just used old/stuffed valves sitting it the seats, when i have polished my Cleveland head combustion chambers
same with the Ducar head i did, used old valves.
i use the Roloc sanding discs in a die grinder, then when they are shaped how i want i move to the Scotchbrite polishing discs
then finally with some 600 w&d, and autosol chrome polish