Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

[user 21036]

I'm stumped, Sometimes the bike sparks right away and sometimes it won't spark at all or is very very weak....
Or if I get the bike going once it gets hot it just dies


I was playing in mud/water when these problems started and I also found the ignition cover to be loose, I believe it is highly likely that mud has gotten to into the stator or whatever it's called.
Do you know how to test if the stator is okay?

 

[my67xr]

have a look at this thread, Lifan 150 is a little way down
http://www.miniriders.com/electrica...neto-igniton-coil-source-coil-pulse-coil.html

 

[user 21036]

Thanks, I'll try that tommorow if I get the chance, How hard are they to replace?

 

[zwebx]

Thanks, I'll try that tommorow if I get the chance, How hard are they to replace?

Not hard, requires a $20 dollar flywheel puller, some solder or crimps and some tape.
Pretty much.. remove stator cover remove flywheel nut (i use a impact driver to do this) and then use the flywheel puller to get the flywheel off.. and then take out two bolts, cut the wires and then pull it out.. (put the bike on the RH side to not loose any oil)

 

[my67xr]

Lifan 150 Zac,
so just unbolt the Stator plate off the backing plate, unplug the wires and swap the new one in
NEW Lifan Magneto Stator Plate FOR 150cc Engine Pitbike | eBay
china Flywheel Puller
Flywheel Puller Magneto Stator CR FOR YZ KX RM 80 85 125 250 450 500 XR 50 | eBay

 

[user 21036]

I've bought a new stator, But it has a rubber bit on if that wasn't on the old one...
Lower left of this picture: PIT Bike Thumpster Trail PRO 8 Coil Magneto Stator Rotor Lifan 150cc | eBay

What's it for, and how do I remove it?

 

[my67xr]

that is a neutral switch, it's only used on a few bikes.

cut the green w/red wires' terminal off at the top of the loom where it all plugs into the main loom of your bike.
then pull that rubber plug away from the stator and the wire will slide out of the insulation

when you go to fit the new stator plate, to the left of the outer pickup coil you will see a little indent in the centre of the bolt hole.
that marking is the middle setting for your timing.
line it up with the little mark on the backing plate that it bolts onto.
see the red marking at 4 o'clock here-

 

[user 21036]

Thanks a lot

 

[user 21036]

Well i took the motor off and gave everything a clean up, replaced the stator and put it all back together.

Didn't touch anything except moved the clip up one on the throttle slide (I found out that it wasn't set in the middle)

Now it sounds like i've got an air leak somewhere, the off throttle response just isn't the same...
I'll attach a video,

I did take off the exhaust, but I put exhaust sealant all over where it would attach into the port so I wouldn't think that would be leaking, if it would even cause it...

Where else could it be leaking? I did up the intake manifold really tight... Although I did use permatex attaching the intake manifold to the head because I had wrecked the gasket



It has been revving higher, and no matter how many times you turn the idle screw on the carb the idle doesn't change at all

[video]http://s199.photobucket.com/user/matt1888/media/Video2-09-201440456pm_zps2fdd8b68.mp4.html[/video]

 

[my67xr]

in that video were you blipping the throttle ?
have you checked that the throttle cable is seated back properly in the top of the carby ?
also check it's sitting in the cable end at the throttle too

 

[user 21036]

Yeah I was blipping the throttle, I'll check out the cable if you think that's a possibility

 

[my67xr]

you could try backing off the throttle cable adjustment up at the bars too
then start it, you might be able to back off the idle speed screw now ?

 

[user 21036]

Thanks it's been going really well, no issues are replacing the stator

I reckon it's time to check on the valves again, after a few hours riding.. I've found that the line on the flywheel doesn't line up with the line on the timing sprocket thing, It's probably 1-2 teeth off... is this a big deal, what does this affect?

 

[zwebx]

Thanks it's been going really well, no issues are replacing the stator

I reckon it's time to check on the valves again, after a few hours riding.. I've found that the line on the flywheel doesn't line up with the line on the timing sprocket thing, It's probably 1-2 teeth off... is this a big deal, what does this affect?

big deal if it goes any further.
replace timing chain and or check for tension first. it should be firm on top and bottom.

 

[user 21036]

 

[jay160cc]

That timing chain looks well stretched to me

 

[user 21036]

How would I go about replacing and or finding a replacement?

Or does this mean things like valves will also be worn, And I should more be looking at passing it off or getting a new motor? or waiting for it to blow up?

 

[my67xr]

have you tried hold the cam gear lined up with the mark, and turning the flywheel backwards a bit
the Lifans have a different type of chain tensioning
the chain still could be worn, are there grooves in the cam gear i can see, where the chain has worn into the gear?

 

[user 21036]

Tried holding it lined up and when I turned it backwards it wouldn't stay, Couldn't feel any play in if that's what I was looking for...


There aren't really grooves in the sprocket, they look like it but it's more just paint missing

 

[my67xr]

Looking at your pic the timing is off a tooth, maybe 2 ?
Have you ever had the head off ?

if you want to fix it it isn't that hard to do
first take the spark plug out.
now make sure it is at TDC, kick it over slowly till the kickstart has a lot of resistance, this is almost TDC.
you should be able to turn the flywheel over by hand to line up the T mark to the marking in the case at 12 o'clock
next, lay the bike over on an angle, so the stator is up.
you'll need to remove the flywheel and stator, and the stator backing plate off the engine
be careful not to damage the oil seal in the backing plate as you move it over the Crankhafts' keyway for the flywheel.

under the engine on the stator side is the Chrome timing chain tensioner bolt (14mm head)
undo it and take the bolt out, a spring might come out too, this will take the tension off the timing chain
if any oil comes out, check the level and top it up if needed before you go to start the bike when finished.
now see if you can unhook the chain off the cam sprocket (might not need to undo the cam sprocket bolts)
now turn the cam gear to line it up with the marking at 9 o'clock in the head.
double check that the flywheel marking is lined up at 12 o'clock, and then refit the timing chain onto the cam gear

loosely refit the Chrome timing chain tensioner bolt and spring, and check that everything is now lined up.
if it is, tighten the tensioner and refit the stator backing plate to the engine case.
fit the stator and line it up with the timing marks down the bottom front like i mentioned before.
put the flywheel on, and tighten the nut (use some Loctite on the thread)
refit the cam cover and tighten the bolt

it should be ready to start it up again