Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

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Okay, I have got that exact tubing here but it won't fit over the nipple (is that what it's called) even after ive tried putting allen keys down the tube and screwdrivers to try and open it up a bit more

I think I might buy the 5mm version next time I go to bunnings and give it a shot
 
Okay, I have got that exact tubing here but it won't fit over the nipple (is that what it's called) even after ive tried putting allen keys down the tube and screwdrivers to try and open it up a bit more

I think I might buy the 5mm version next time I go to bunnings and give it a shot
If its not sucking solid fluid it could be **** in the mastercylinder blocking it from sucking more in..

If not its likley the seals are blown.. or you are not exorsizing the bleed correctly.. can take time too manually if there is one slip up then you have to do it again untill you re-gain the correct feel in the lever
 
Probably the seals... Seller told me it had 2 hours on it by a 12 year old but the brake lever is broken, The grips are worn down all the way and more


When I bought it they pretended they didnt even know and said "Probably just needs a bleed" So I guess they're just being more dishonest


How much would it cost for a whole new front brake assembly cost, And do i need a specific one or a specific mount for it?
 
if fluid is coming out the bleeder, then more than likely you'll be able to bleed the brakes.
 
if fluid is coming out the bleeder, then more than likely you'll be able to bleed the brakes.
Yeah, if it doesnt take any fluid then i would be looking at a new mastercylinder (probably so cheap that its not worth the time rebuilding)
 
I have a feeling the brake lines are empty, So would I close off bleeder and then fill up all the lines and the master cylinder and once it's full would I start the bleed then?
 
with your pvc hose, heat up the end with a cigarette lighter, then push it over the barb.

and yeah, once you fill it, open the bleeder just enough so that fluid starts to slowly flow out.
you will see bubbles of air coming out too in the fluid
keep an eye on the fluid level in the master, dont let it reach the bottom, top it up when it gets just below half way.
once there is no bubbles coming out through the hose on the bleeder, lock the bleeder nipple up and try pumping the brakes a couple of times to see if they are starting to work.


also another thing to check is that the hose that runs down to the brake caliper doesnt run higher than the exit point from the master cylinder.
if it does, that can be a good place for air to sit and make your job harder.
sometimes it is easier with 2 people.
 
Just had a proper go then and I think the master cylinder is ****ed

With the bleed point tightened no fluid will go through when I pull the lever, Do you think the caliper/lines will be fine or should I be safe and buy a whole front brake assembly?
 
with the master cylinder full, and bleeder opened, when you pull the brakes on a few times does fluid squirt out the bleeder ?
 
Yeah, I swear that it wasn't taking any more fluid in but i've actually gained some brakes. Front works half decent now, Full to the bars would stop it but not super quick
 
ok, maybe do it again.
give the brakes a couple of pumps with the bleeder closed,
and hold the brake on, crack the bleeder open a little, watch for air in the line, and then while holding the brake on still, do up the bleeder again.
top up the master and try that
 
ok, maybe do it again.
give the brakes a couple of pumps with the bleeder closed,
and hold the brake on, crack the bleeder open a little, watch for air in the line, and then while holding the brake on still, do up the bleeder again.
top up the master and try that

Yeah I've done a couple of bleeds recently. A good way to do it if you think you have bubbles in the line is open the bleed valve slightly and hold your finger over the fluid to hold the pressure in the line, then squeeze the brakes a few times while still holding your finger over it. Doing that squeezes the bubbles out of the bottom end of the line doesn't it my67xr?

Mind you I just bought a pitpro bigfoot which has the wrong sized and shaped disk on the front wheel! Will need to replace the brake pads as its eaten half of them out but the other half is almost fine! So maybe not just to do with bleeding if its a second hand bike!? Having a look at the photo though it seems ok, or is that the same size as the one on mine and to small for a bigfoot my67xr?
 
Thanks my67xr,

I went to bunnings and bought 6mm hose which fitted perfectly, I tried your lighter method and it still wouldn't go all the way on.
I got the brakes working good but still a bit of air in the line I think, How good are brakes supposed to be? (ie, How close to lifting up back wheel?)


Anyway I have discovered that the glass window on the master cylinder is gone... It's a shame, As I have only just finally got the brakes going... Could I fill it up with silicon or something?
 
what it fell out ?

nah, cant do much with it now except replace it
 
yeah the lenses are made out of cheap plastic, so they don't last too long.


here are a couple of links to new ones
ex china-
10mm Right Front Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder ATV Scooter Moped Dirt PIT Bike | eBay
qld-
Front Brake Master Cylinder PIT Dirt Bike Thumpstar 70cc 110cc 125cc 140cc | eBay
qld express delivery-
Hydraulic Front Brake Master Cylinder PIT Dirt Bike ATV 110cc 125cc 140cc 150cc | eBay

this one has the brake line and caliper and is pre-bled, and doesn't cost much more
just check the caliper mount dimensions to make sure it fits, and is does your brake caliper look like this one?-
Hydraulic Front Disc Brake Caliper Brake System PIT PRO Trail Bike Dirt PIT Bike | eBay
 
Wanna do the oil, oil filter and clean/oil the air filter this weekend
I can't for the life of me figure out where the oil goes in!

This is it here
IMG_1295.JPG
 
the chrome Allen key headed plug just near the clutch arm, it's a 10mm

the oil filter lives behind that small round cover on the side cover towards the front.
it should be a steel one, so it can easily be washed out with degreaser/petrol, dried then refitted.
don't loose the rubber o ring that sits behind the cover too when you take it off.
 
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Oh okay thatnks
I opened the allen key head and I could see the flywheel or something in there and presumed it wasn't that.
Should I just clean the oil filter or replace it? It looks like it's had a fair few hours put on it (the bike)


Also should I measure how much oil came out and put the same amount back in?
 
that's the clutch sitting just below the oil filler cap.

there is a little window below the big round side clutch cover, forward a touch.
fill it until it just reaches the top of that window, it will take between 1 litre and 1.1 litres iirc ?

and yeah the filters are made of metal mesh, so don't really need replacing unless the are bent or squashed up.
 

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