crankcase and cover crack

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ok as for the ignition problem with no key... just unplug the key loom and it will have full time ignition...

the rest of the options is sorta up to you cause this nitrous we been talking about surely cant be in much better condition that the motor...

just remember one thing... you always get what you pay for...

now as for the 200cc.. there not an engine that can be be ridden every day like a 175 or a 160 etc unless you spend big $$ on making it super reliable. which will never happen because gearboxs are still made of cheese lol...
 
sean01 said:
ok, iv only skipped over the above posts and sorta stopped as soon as you said and posted pics of the drowned top end...

i wouldnt chance repairing this engine unless it was a major rebuild.. and i mean major..
new crank for one
new main bearings
new barrel/cylinder (its not repairable by sanding it and will have rust pitts in it.)
at least check out the head.. specially the valve guides and valve stems...
check the cam lobes and rocker faces for wear.(i could bet this has been cooked too)
then theres the new kicker gears as yours are r00ted, then the cases and anything else you find along the way...

cut your loses and replace the engine, even if its for a very well known or guaranteed secondhand one..

zonger140's are pretty cheap now.. or the yx140 a bit cheaper i think..

but please dont waste anymore money
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i hear u loud and clear i have spent $10 on this engine and not a cent more will get spent however i might give away freebies or sell other parts cheap that are still working and in good condition if i go that route i will post up pictures showing all details of parts in and outs but this engine wont be getting repaired i had asked the guy who sold it to me why the oil was white i asked if the bike had been left outside he said yes i think he lied as there is rust in all the odd spots yet not in the most obvious spots and it has a new spark plug i would say with less than a few hours on it that would be an indication the seller let the bike sit with salt water inside of the engine (seller lived close to the beach) and that dirt could have been sand i have another option bulldog93 has a 125cc engine with electronics and manifold but no carbie for $100 it blows a little white smoke do u guys think this could be an easy repair or run for the hills? lol
 
sean01 said:
ok as for the ignition problem with no key... just unplug the key loom and it will have full time ignition...

the rest of the options is sorta up to you cause this nitrous we been talking about surely cant be in much better condition that the motor...

just remember one thing... you always get what you pay for...

now as for the 200cc.. there not an engine that can be be ridden every day like a 175 or a 160 etc unless you spend big $$ on making it super reliable. which will never happen because gearboxs are still made of cheese lol...
Click to expand...

a rusty chain/front sprocket and surface rust around the rims where it meets the tires is all that is rusted i think and bent handle bars plus leaking forks (my bad long trip home) doesnt look very old i would say max 6months old yet its a 2008 model lol
 
My brother had a crack in his left side cover and it was easily fixed at our local motorbike store, they use a type of metal clue and it's now good as new, it was from a rock smashing against it.
But yours looks like a kick starter issue as other member have mentioned
 
yeah the 125 might be a go'er if it only needs rings..

by the sound of all that rust,, all the bearings will be shot too.. cheap to replace but it gets tiring lol
 
sean01 said:
yeah the 125 might be a go'er if it only needs rings..

by the sound of all that rust,, all the bearings will be shot too.. cheap to replace but it gets tiring lol
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will my original Molkt carbie for the 150cc work on bulldog93 125cc? just trying to figure out my options before i commit :)
 
The_GDFP said:
It's junk. More hassle/cost to fix than repair. Start fresh (er).
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thanks and yep im going to offer the 150cc engine for parts to people who need them as repairing it is just going to be a hassle trying to get the parts cheap enough
sean01 said:
yeah your carby should be fine
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thanks i just found a new lifan 125cc the shop said they will sell the engine for $200 a piece i have the option of going with a silver or black engine are there any difference? the engine is a 1P54FMI with the type R head racing engine with 54x54 bore stroke are these any good before i buy one? comes with all electricals and manifold minus carby
 
Those engines have the clutch on the crank (start in neutral only) ... The kick starter gears drive thru the tranny so they're more reliable as far as busted kick start gears go ...

They're a good reliable motor and they go pretty good ...

I could possibly sell you a brand new still in the box Lifan 140 w/oil cooler for $300 + delivery cost ...
 
Cactus Jack said:
Those engines have the clutch on the crank (start in neutral only) ... The kick starter gears drive thru the tranny so they're more reliable as far as busted kick start gears go ...

They're a good reliable motor and they go pretty good ...

I could possibly sell you a brand new still in the box Lifan 140 w/oil cooler for $300 + delivery cost ...
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what is the power difference like compared to the 125? i have only riden a 110 semi auto 125 and a 160
 
They've got a 55 mm bore x 59 mm stroke (1P55FMJ) compared to a 1P52FMI's 52.4 mm bore x 55.5 mm stroke or the 1P54FMI's 54 mm bore x 54 mm stroke ...

I've never tried one ... I bought 3 off DHZ , sold one new and still have the other two new in the box ...

Others will know how they compare ...
 
140 Lifan is quite strong, and a nice offer. Iron jug is a tad heavier, but they're solid engines. They'll run circles around the 125's. 54mm Lifan 125 has a 20mm sprocket shaft, usually, and the crank-mount clutch won't take much power increase.

If you pick up a used 125 with clutch on the trans, you can swap your top end on it. Big-valve head and the jug bolt on. Maybe have the jug bored for a 57mm TB slug and have a 146cc ripper. Save that lightweight stator/flywheel from the 150, as well. Spin up much quicker than the full-size ones, still can run lights.

If you don't mind, check posting the (bad?) crank to the US? In the name of science:) They're a nice 60mm stroke piece, and an Akunar pin and rod make them 66mm pretty cheap. I broke mine and need to build another.
 
Cactus Jack said:
They've got a 55 mm bore x 59 mm stroke (1P55FMJ) compared to a 1P52FMI's 52.4 mm bore x 55.5 mm stroke or the 1P54FMI's 54 mm bore x 54 mm stroke ...

I've never tried one ... I bought 3 off DHZ , sold one new and still have the other two new in the box ...

Others will know how they compare ...
Click to expand...
cheers mate i sold something on ebay waiting on the bloke to come through with a fair few pennies if he does in the next day or so i might be keen on picking up the engine but im its interesting what GDFP is saying
The_GDFP said:
140 Lifan is quite strong, and a nice offer. Iron jug is a tad heavier, but they're solid engines. They'll run circles around the 125's. 54mm Lifan 125 has a 20mm sprocket shaft, usually, and the crank-mount clutch won't take much power increase.

If you pick up a used 125 with clutch on the trans, you can swap your top end on it. Big-valve head and the jug bolt on. Maybe have the jug bored for a 57mm TB slug and have a 146cc ripper. Save that lightweight stator/flywheel from the 150, as well. Spin up much quicker than the full-size ones, still can run lights.

If you don't mind, check posting the (bad?) crank to the US? In the name of science:) They're a nice 60mm stroke piece, and an Akunar pin and rod make them 66mm pretty cheap. I broke mine and need to build another.
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the crank is yours if u want it when i removed one case half the crank moved very freely no restriction at all than i tried undoing the 4 point nut on the clutch side and i couldnt undo the nut while doing this i lowered the piston so it locked onto the crankcase so i could undo the nut a few minutes later i noticed the crank was able to turn but stiff i than put it in the shed and havnt played with it i think the crank was good and might still be just the sprocket on the clutch side is pushing against the right crank bearing causing it to be stiff i will get it out of the shed tomorrow and see if i can remove the nut and i checked shipping i had to go to chinadirtbikeparts.com i added the crank to my cart to check the weight it is saying 4.2lb that shipped to the USA is as follows all prices AUD$ sea mail $36.10,air mail $52.60, express $58 not cheap :( im interested in what your saying about converting a 125cc into a 146cc would it matter what brand 125cc it is and is there anyway of looking at the clutch side cover to tell weather the clutch is on the transmission or crank? i was looking at this motor http://www.miniriders.com.au/mini-classifieds/31542-crf-50-style-bike-part-out.html
 
Lemme know when you've got the crank out and an accurate shipping weight/cost, please.

BullDog's motor is a fine version, but clutch is on the crank. Not ideal for a 146/141 (57/55.5 stroke) build. I'd still work up the funds for the 140. new is good;)
 
engines with the clutch arm on top of the case is a trans mounted clutch engine.

engines with the clutch arm at the front of the engine is a crank mounted clutch engine..
 
cheers guys i just went and picked up a new 125cc lifan for $200 bulldogs engine is $100 plus $35 shipping blowing smoke and hasnt been ridden so i thought the $200 for a new engine was worth it and while i was there i got made the offer of a century a new z155 for $450! the fella on ebay hasnt come through with the dough yet so i cant buy the engine so the 125cc will have to do untill i can afford the z155

Picture548.jpg
 
Cactus Jack said:
$200 for a 125 is a good deal ...
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yeah its not bad $170 for the bike and $200 for a new motor $370 in total and if i sell parts that price comes down so it was a good buy all round i reckon :) if the new motor has no hiccups hopefully i can take my nephew out with his dirtmax 160 this weekend
 
i installed the new engine this afternoon it seems the lifan engine is around 10mm longer than the YX150 as the exhaust had to be moved forward could this lifan engine be designed for the KLX frame?

The_GDFP do u have any clue on how i could go about removing the nut on the crank (right side) without the tool?
 
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