DHZ 160r Outlaw

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I would go just the V2/s35 with tb piston and oko for the engine , which makes awesome power all around . then if you ever need more just buy a 64mm kit when you need a rebuild .. which is my plan

dont really want to put my opinion on which bike to go , if you like the 70 style then stick with it , you could a good elka for the rear down the track , and with the good engine that will be plenty of bike to keep you at the front of the pack easily with the right rider

so he said nothing about the x4r swingarm? its not like the stock one will snap out of nowhere , but its just i have seen them snap on several occasions near the axle most of the time , and also seen them bend and look like a banana lol
 
Yeah I think I'll stick with it I rode a revmx today and it's a little too soft for me and it felt ok but I think I'll stick with the dhz and maybe get an elka rear down the track but russ hasn't replied to my email yet so if he gives me a good price I think I may get the revmx n get used to it
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YAMAHA GX1
 
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hey there
sorry i didnt get back to u about the swingarm,
i dont see why it wont fit the dhz70, as the swinger on the 70 is the x4 one, i personally havnt seen a problem with the genuine pitster/dhz swingarms and we have the fasters boys on our team,

our 70 with a v2 and elka would be sic, more than enough bike and motor , my old bike was a x4r with elka , and the elka made such a difference, u dont really need the big bore kit bud, ive built and tested alot of different race motor combo,s and really or that happens when u go big bore is u gain alittle grunt and u loose quite abit of topend,

the stock motors with a head /manifold on them scream there head off,

just keep in mind that both our brands of bikes have had plenty of time and money spent in the geomitry to make these thing hook up, these knock off bikes are exactly tha,t with no real thought gone into making things work proply,
this is just our opinion
have fun boys be safe,
 
Yeah I think I'll stick with it I rode a revmx today and it's a little too soft for me and it felt ok but I think I'll stick with the dhz and maybe get an elka rear down the track but russ hasn't replied to my email yet so if he gives me a good price I think I may get the revmx n get used to it

jordan did you adjust the suspension at all on the Revmx? how much do you weigh? i weigh in around 88kg, and i foudn the stock stuff to be too stiff in the front, and bang on in the rear... and i'm not the slowest rider out there...
bit of oil here, few clicks there, the Revmx standard gear is actually pretty bloody good for 99% of riders..
 
Hey mate bout 105 kg and no I didn't because I didn't want to stuff up my mates config. Any suggestions? If you could choose the revmx or the 160 outlaw with the v2 n elka rear what path would you take?
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Infant Wellbutrin
 
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i say buy the bike + the parts + DIY sell the spares and make abit of coin DIY is the best bit then riding it.
 
DHZ... Just because the crf70 looks the goods and it seems to be a sick bike.
 
Hey mate bout 105 kg and no I didn't because I didn't want to stuff up my mates config. Any suggestions? If you could choose the revmx or the 160 outlaw with the v2 n elka rear what path would you take?

well by the time you buy a v2 an elka its gonna cost a fair bit more than the revmx

but its hard to say on the reliabilty of the rev mx, im not saying its good or bad its simply no one knows yet as he has only had bikes out for about a month now where as dhz have been in the game for 7 years or something now but at the same time im not telling you to run out and buy a dhz either

EDIT: i would also like to add as much as much as i want a linkage bike it is another thing that can go wrong and the crf70 style does look good and i can almost see it replacing the x4r as there is pretty much the same parts on both
 
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true if i was going to get another china it would be the DHZ , the 70 style is sick and i really dont think its gonna matter if you have the linkage because if you have been riding since you where 6 i think you could handle it .
 
Hey mate bout 105 kg and no I didn't because I didn't want to stuff up my mates config. Any suggestions? If you could choose the revmx or the 160 outlaw with the v2 n elka rear what path would you take?

hmm... tough call...
the TTR can be tuned to run your weight with just a few winds on the rear shock preload, and raising the oil height in the forks, and adjusting the compression on both ends... I prefer the TTR/YZF style, mostly cause i've always owned yamahas, and pitbikes are either klx's or CRF's, have been for years, so the TTR is something different...
The DHZ however, would also be a bit of a weapon... any 160 with a V2 head on it is gonna rip holes wherever it goes, but even with the Elka in the rear, i'm not sure how much of that power would get to the ground with the rigid rear... that's the one massive advantage of the linkage, they track a million times better than a comparable rigid rear, and the DNM stuff on the RevMX is hardly poor quallity gear...

Definately a tough call, i guess it would come down to money, the style your prefer, and which bike is actually more comfortable for you to ride...
Having ridden pretty much all styles of minis, they all feel different, minis, monsters, midsizes, bigfoots and the TTR's all feel different.... so if it was me, i'd probably try and get a ride on both, and see which one you feel most comfortable on...
performance wise, they'd be pretty comparable i'd imagine...
hope that helps.. :)
 
yeah Everyone has helped ALOT!, and i really appreciate everyones input.. it's all confusing at times but i think ?'m going to go the crf70 style and upgrade to an elka straight away with a V2, TB piston and put the X4R Swingarm on it.. then what carby would you run the OKO or a Keihin PWK 28??.. i might ride my mates REVMX again and change the back preload etc and give it a squirt and see what it feels like.. but i think ill definately go the dhz just to be different =].. heard pretty good things about the GPX's anyone own them. would i need to change the oil height and weight for my build??
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Uhwh
 
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hmm well like any bike (china or jap) all suspension needs to be tuned to suit the rider. sometimes it can be as easy as the clickers for preload and compression other times it can be springs as well..

just gotta remember that these bikes are hardly built with a 105kg rider in the equation.

as for the swing arm, why exactly do you want to change it?
the post above from pitster pro says the DHZ70 bike actually uses the X4 swing arm.

and if this was my decision id be going a linkage bike for sure, but i recon no matter what bike you get your going to need at least a shock spring change and by doing that on a crf style bike your making the ass end stiffer with makes it harder to soak up the bumps and get power to the ground..

put it this way, you want a new bike. get 1 with the latest suspension or else your not really getting a new bike are you..
sure it may look different but handling will be pretty much the same..
 
Thats gonna be a awesome 1 off bike man .

If you can afford the pwk yer but the OKOs are a very good copy , the 26oko goes really good with the v2 s35 combo has instant grunty power . 28 should make more power but heard its a bitch to tune the oko28
 
hmm well like any bike (china or jap) all suspension needs to be tuned to suit the rider. sometimes it can be as easy as the clickers for preload and compression other times it can be springs as well..

just gotta remember that these bikes are hardly built with a 105kg rider in the equation.

as for the swing arm, why exactly do you want to change it?
the post above from pitster pro says the DHZ70 bike actually uses the X4 swing arm.

and if this was my decision id be going a linkage bike for sure, but i recon no matter what bike you get your going to need at least a shock spring change and by doing that on a crf style bike your making the ass end stiffer with makes it harder to soak up the bumps and get power to the ground..

put it this way, you want a new bike. get 1 with the latest suspension or else your not really getting a new bike are you..
sure it may look different but handling will be pretty much the same..

Uses the older x4r swingarm , i have a few pictures of snapped ones on me computer lol , the new x4r ones are big beefy ones , the one thats on pbks bike
 
Thats gonna be a awesome 1 off bike man .

If you can afford the pwk yer but the OKOs are a very good copy , the 26oko goes really good with the v2 s35 combo has instant grunty power . 28 should make more power but heard its a ***** to tune the oko28

i Hope so =]. yeah heard the 28's were pretty hard to tune was gunna stick with the 26.. the pwk yeah i can afford it but what are they like to tune??
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Racing Corporation
 
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just gotta remember that these bikes are hardly built with a 105kg rider in the equation.

i know =( unfortunately lol..


and if this was my decision id be going a linkage bike for sure, but i recon no matter what bike you get your going to need at least a shock spring change and by doing that on a crf style bike your making the ass end stiffer with makes it harder to soak up the bumps and get power to the ground..

i dunno man it's so confusing.. and i don't want to bad mouth the revmx or anything like that but the long term reliability isn't there yet, i mean no one's put Serious Time on them so who know's how reliable the linkage system is. Yet?. Don't take it the wrong way i just think DHZ has been around for donkey's and has a great reputation so that half persuaded me.

put it this way, you want a new bike. get 1 with the latest suspension or else your not really getting a new bike are you.. - True.

may be the stupidest question ever, but... How hard would it be "in the future" to change this to a linkage setup??

Confusing. lol
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AVANDIA CLASS ACTION
 
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Jordan as for which carby to go for, i'd choose one depending on your tuning skills...
The OKO26mm is a bolt in job for pretty much any bike you can think of, and will run next to perfect with stock jetting, and absolutely perfect with minor jetting changes....
The OKO28mm however, is a different animal altogether, and is a complete beeutch to tune...
Jetting needs to be absolutely spot on for them to work properly, and changes to one jet, will effect the other jets... Ie: if you change the main jet, it will effect how the pilot and needle work... Dont ask me why, i'm still trying to figure that one out... I've been playing with an OKO28mm for 2 years now, trying all sorts of jetting combinations, slide combinations, needle settings, float settings etc, and while i've got it close, it's still not perfect, and i've tried it on a variety of engines from a 140 to a vertical 250...
Unless you like banging your head against a wall, go for the 26mm... Or failing that, you really want something different, go for a 30mm.. the 30mm is similar to tune to the 26mm, just runs much bigger jets... it's just the 28 that's a pig...
However, while a 30mm would offer massively epic performance up top with the mods you have described, it would probably be pretty doughy down low.. which actually might not be a bad thing with the amount of power you will be looking at...

Or, if doing something different is your thing, try a Keihin Replica PE-28 roundslide... There are a couple of Thai places on ebay that sell these as complete kits, the quality is brilliant, and they offer really good ALL ROUND performance... just without the top end sting of the OKO flatties...

Then of course, if money is no object, you can go for pumpers, TM-28s etc.. Or fuel injection...

Just dont go out and buy a "Genuine Mikuni 26mm Race Carby".... *giggle*
 
The OKO28mm however, is a different animal altogether, and is a complete beeutch to tune...

Yeah i heard that.. wasn't to confident on the oko 28, that's why i was thinking the PE-28

Or, if doing something different is your thing, try a Keihin Replica PE-28 roundslide... There are a couple of Thai places on ebay that sell these as complete kits, the quality is brilliant, and they offer really good ALL ROUND performance... just without the top end sting of the OKO flatties...

Yeah was wondering how they would go on the 155 with a V2.. so good All round is what im after the top end Sting isn't really a MUST, just a nice smooth power curve from idle to top with a nice punch.

Then of course, if money is no object, you can go for pumpers, TM-28s etc.. Or fuel injection...

Wouldn't go the EFI, but definately consider the TM-28, what are they like to Tune, and performance wise are they worth it in the end??

Just dont go out and buy a "Genuine Mikuni 26mm Race Carby".... *giggle*

LOL, that's all i have to say to that.. haha

i keep forgetting the "quote" function and then editing within the quote doesn't cound as a reply so i go to submit, and it tells me the message is too short.. lol
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Nevada Marijuana Dispensary
 
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i run a oko30mm on my yx160..
yx150 head with port work and 7.2mm cam and H/d valve springs.
and has sht loads more power than the 28mm...everywhere

definitely not doughy don low, has heaps of power off idle despite the big cam..
and top end to the moon..

and thump, what do you mean by the 30 runs bigger jets?

oh and the v2 head.. all v2 cams have 7.2mm valve lift too..
 
i run a oko30mm on my yx160..
yx150 head with port work and 7.2mm cam and H/d valve springs.
and has sht loads more power than the 28mm...everywhere

definitely not doughy don low, has heaps of power off idle despite the big cam..
and top end to the moon..

and thump, what do you mean by the 30 runs bigger jets?

oh and the v2 head.. all v2 cams have 7.2mm valve lift too..

So you would run the 30?.. what jet's are you running.?
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Fix Ps3
 
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