GasGas FSR515 2008

Shop deals on ebay
Find deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
$$ wise i think a sleeve is cheaper by far, i think i have outlined the downsides and upsides too them too..
Once you have found one then you can always order another instead of paying $450 or so But the nikacil last longer most of the time..
 
Checked my emails and Scotts dirt bike spares quoted $455 to be repaired.
The only thing is I am a little worried about a sleeve being pressed in and opening up the crack even more.
There is not much material at all between the water jackets and cylinder so I am a bit apprehensive to do that but will see what Dave thinks of it first.
 
Update,

Couldn't work out how to tag in my other thread so started a new one just for this bit of info to hopefully help others out in the future.

So I did some part number searching on the net, and eventually found a spanish outlet selling genuine parts real cheap, picked up a cylinder with piston kit brand new for $300, with all the gaskets etc I was only set back $500 inc postage.

The Parts Have now arrived and I have put the engine back together this weekend, I found it very hard to track down useful information to time the engine, so I will try and explain how I have it set up to hopefully help out someone in the future.

After a lot of searching I finally found this website,
https://www.dropbox.com/s/12dr3u4e6h...nual_02-03.pdf
It is for the 450 but they are identical except for the obvious displacement difference.

You will notice in the instructions on p150 it says to turn the engine to inner dead centre (p.m.s.)
Whats that you ask? Certain dictionary results say to "see TDC", and p.m.s stands for Punto Muerto Superior
which is Spanish for Top Dead Centre, so I'm pretty confident thay mean TDC.

And by follow the instructions my results are this,
iframe>

And there is no TDC mark on the flywheel so I had to use a screwdriver through the spark plug hole to find tdc. As below,
[/IMG]
iframe>[COLOR=

So essentially with the engine at TDC the intake cam will have number 3 vertical and no.2 horizontal and the exhaust cam will have 3 vertical and 1 & 2 horizontal. And if you count the pins in the chain starting from the no.2 and count accross to no.3 there will be 15 pins in total. Mine looks like 14 but when the slack is taken out it is 15.

Hope this all helps
I have not yet run it yet but will let ya know if it all fails lol.

More pics to come.....
 
Last edited:
Glad you sourced your parts :) its all a matter of looking really and some dedication..
Now you know how i felt with partzilla :p
 
Here is a quick vid of it running,nothing special still running it in,
[video=youtube_share;lQg9L_HdAco]http://youtu.be/lQg9L_HdAco[/video]
Im real happy with how it rides, feels stable in fast straights, yet nible in the slow tight stuff.
Pics will come soon....
 
well here is a quick pic I got before my after work ride;) It hasn't been cleaned yet though, still need to polish the rims etc....
iframe>

iframe>

iframe>

By the way I have found these grips to be real comfy., they are tag rebounds.

I think I might have to change to photo bucket, this new flickr is crap, Is everyone else seeing two of the same photo above when I was timing it?
 
Last edited:
Hey has anyone had any experience with thewarm up feature like this bike has? before starting the bike the clutch lever feels normal and it works, as soon as you start the engine it goes loose and does nothing, and it will not be come operational until the engine is at operating temp and then it can be used as normal. I dunno what it is called so haven't found anything on google.

I don't like it, it takes for ever to get up to temp before I can ride and then as soon as I get moving the airflow cools the engine and you loose your clutch while riding so stalling is the only way to stop. Can this be adjusted to a lower temperature ir something? I have absolutly no idea how it works either.

It is obviously to stop idiots thrashing the engine before it is warm as it sounds like this engine is temperament to this kind of abuse. But I am not one to do this and in fact more damage is done by letting it idle to operational temp then it is to ride around gently.
 
Never ever heard of that one before. As reading I'm thinking that's a great idea but then you mention loosing your clutch when it cools down!!! Holy crap that's not cool.

I usually warm my bike up while getting riding gear and boots on etc and that gives it a good 10 min warmup which you would think would be enough to keep it warm?
 
nar thats not really my situation, its not a issue as such but a built in feature that I don't like lol.
I can't seem to find a single thing on this clutch design and Ive been searching for hours lol. Might have to crack another beer and keep looking, I have a 3 day weekend after all:rockon:
 
ok well that ^ didn't work. After much searching I have asked the GasGasriders club forum and so far no one has ever heard of this, so now Im thinking maybe it isn't a built in feature after all. The clutch appears flawless without measuring plates etc except for a very slight weeping at the master. Re sealing this might be a good start but can't work out how or why...
Here's a couple more pics....
iframe>

iframe>
 
Last edited:
Does it use an external slave and push rod set up ?

it looks like you don't need to insert you photo links into the Insert Image box too, with the IMG tabs either side of your pics too.


i found this, from an older model, maybe your's has the same sort of problem ?

AJP.jpg
 
Last edited:
yeah i saw that to, checked mine and it looks like the adjuster screw is between the two shown, but ut still has plenty of free play so the piston must be all the way back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top