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Go Go Gadget Moderator
Nov 5, 2010
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Cantberra, AUS
I know it's been covered b4 but i have no idea what i'm supposed to be doing when it comes to multimeters :( Hopeing someone can help. I have so far elimiated the following

Brand new plug
Swap 3 different plug leads and heads
Changed out the coil to the old standard one
Unplugged and re-plugged all connectors from the stator to the coil
Sanded back the eartch point and connectors for the coil

So thats where im at now. I have the multimeter there but i have NFI what to connect to what?
which bike/stator ?

to test the the TDR/Generic stator

set the multimeter to 200 Ohms,
put one lead fom the meter to the blue w/white stripe wire from the stator
and other lead from the meter to the green
you should get 130 Ohms

now set it to 2000 Ohms, put one lead from the black w/red stripe wire from the stator
other lead from the meter to green,
it should have around 380 Ohms
ok wasn't sure which bike

can just use 200 Ohms on the meter,
just one lead to the black w/red and and the other lead to the red,
this is for the source coil, around 10.5 Ohms

pink and green w/white strip is the pick up coil on the outside of the flywheel,
should get around 130 Ohms
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i noticed that the terminals for the black and red wires are pretty weak,
if you can get a tiny flat blade jewellers screwdriver under the fat side and lift the tab a bit to sort of close it up.
i will post a pic in a it if you need me to, to help explain it better
in your picture above, the pink wires' terminal isn't clipped into the other one properly
check your terminals hold together when you connect them

do you have a couple of pins/needles, like one used for sewing etc?
push them through the insulation of the black w/red, and the red wires back down towards the stator a bit and try measuring it there.
it may have a broken wire?

mine has approx 50 mm of the coloured wires coming out of the black sheath/insulation
Cheers mate, ill try n have a play tommorow. If the pink wasn't clipped in properly I still should get a reading from the blk&red to green though, right?
no, not the black w/red and green
put one lead from the meter to the black w/red stripe, and the other from the meter to the red
the adjustable timing Lifan 150/Daytona Outer Rotor kits are set up different to a normal Pit Bike stator.

the source coil is a floating set up,
this means one wire goes from the CDI (the red for example), down to the coil on the stator, then it is connected the the copper wire that's wound around the post (about 100 turns),
as it finishes the last winding it then bridges over onto the next post, and has another 100 windings
the end of the copper windings connects onto another wire )black w/red) that comes off of the second post and goes back up the stator wiring to the CDI
one wire that goes to the coil is the red, the other end that comes off the coil is the black w/red stripe

so the Outer Rotor set up doesn't have one wire that runs to the source coil, with the other end of the copper winding earthed to the stator backing plate like the normal pit bike style.

a standard style stator has a black w/red coming from the cdi, down to the coil, it joins the copper winding (around 150 turns), then the end of it has a ring terminal on it and is earthed to the coils mounting screw.
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Cheers mate :) I'll buy a new one today anyway, as there certainly is an issue with it. once it's out of the bike i'll re-wire it and see if i cant get it working again. Can't hurt to have 2 of everything, especailly being 2 wks out from race and finding your bike wont start...
i had a look at the Lifan 150 stator that i swapped into my Z155HO
on the bottom section of the windings, where the wires join up to the copper windings
i noticed that there's a insulating sheath to stop the copper wire shorting out on the metal body of the winding post
mine has slipped along the wire a little, and looks like it could easily arc out there.
maybe check that area too when you get it out.
Hmmm, if i get time i'll pull it off tonight. Bugger i didn't see that ebay listing, i just brought one fr dhz. Thanks again :)
Hey Craig, i got the stator removed last night. I ran the ohms test over the coil wires and did not get a reading linking up any of them, is that normal?
nah something isn't right there ?
so you had the meter on 200 Ohms, with one lead to the black w/red, and other to the red, in the 2 pin plug ?
like this, it doesn't show much, but is a bit hard to manage 2 wires, a meter and a camera-

see below the stator windings, can you see some black fibreglass insulation tubing running to 2 of the coils ?
this is where the red wire, and the black w/red striped wire join to the copper windings.
one i have here the insulation had slipped up the wires a little and had let one of the copper wires earth out to the coil post

just check them, otherwise it could be one of the windings on the coils has has broken,
or there could be a break in either the red wire or the black w/red stripe wire before it joins to the copper wires.
you haven't been pulling on the stator loom between when you last rode it and now ?
Deff no reading on the b/r and r, and nah i havn't been pulling on the stator lead? I have a feeling the power has been getting weaker and weaker as time goes on, as it seemed to get harder and harder to start, once it fired it was fine. I might pull it all to peices and throw up some photos, i tried to remove the coils last night but iv'e stripped one of the heads.
use some decent vise grips to grip the head of the screw to break the loctite used on them.
i'll buy your old dead Stator off you if you want to sell it?
i'll rewind it and use it as a spare.
if you pull back that fibreglass insulation over the joins i mentioned above,
you will see where the wires are soldered to the copper windings, it might just need resoldering ?

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