seanisonfire
Well-Known Member
any news thump?? taken it for a decent ride?
RevolutionMX TTR-style 155z... The wait is over..
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user 11561
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Looking at the Ciniworx 175 and the spec's - one would think it's made at the same place!!! What's the price on that one??
ando
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alright then lets let this thread get back on topic eh??
londin check out this for the cini mate http://www.miniriders.com.au/mini-chat/27074-pics-my-new-ride-ciniworx-cxz175.html... recomended retail is all that is stated here on MR so we keep all the sponsers happy... if you want quotes or prices you will get as a MR member just check out the cini website and give Eddie a call he'll sort ya out...
londin check out this for the cini mate http://www.miniriders.com.au/mini-chat/27074-pics-my-new-ride-ciniworx-cxz175.html... recomended retail is all that is stated here on MR so we keep all the sponsers happy... if you want quotes or prices you will get as a MR member just check out the cini website and give Eddie a call he'll sort ya out...
I_THUMP
Well-Known Member
Spot on......
user 11561
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Motard review
So had the bike on the track for the first time. After some warm up laps and some adjustment I must say that this bike is all I was hoping for! Gave me good warning before the rear stated to slip, breaks are great, had no front end issues at all! I had to get use to the size as i normally ride crf50 size but the extra 10cm hight and longer wheelbase was no problems!
I would say that when I get my v2 top from my other bike I'll cut laptimes! The 6 plade clutch is working really good to.
I can't really find anything bad to say!
If your looking for a new or first minitard bike - then buy a RevMX!
So had the bike on the track for the first time. After some warm up laps and some adjustment I must say that this bike is all I was hoping for! Gave me good warning before the rear stated to slip, breaks are great, had no front end issues at all! I had to get use to the size as i normally ride crf50 size but the extra 10cm hight and longer wheelbase was no problems!
I would say that when I get my v2 top from my other bike I'll cut laptimes! The 6 plade clutch is working really good to.
I can't really find anything bad to say!
If your looking for a new or first minitard bike - then buy a RevMX!
no_crf50_here
Well-Known Member
It looks good from behind too hahahah
Forks Fix...
ok, so i've done a bit of tinkering with the front end of the TTR and found a reasonable solution to the DNM M200 forks...
Most people have found them to be on the stiff side, and little harsh, and tend to deflect over rough ground...
I measured the stock oil quantities in both legs, found there to be 225ml in the right leg, and 200mm in the left leg, i'm assuming of either 10 or 15w oil....
i've replaced it with 225ml of 5w oil in both legs, and so far the front end seems to be far more compliant, and adjustments in the clickers seem to have a more noticeable effect...
I'm taking it out tomorrow for a bit more testing, so i'll see if the oil height is ok, or whether it needs a bit of raising to keep bottoming resistance...
But for those TTR owners who want a more compliant front end, change the oil for 225ml of 5w oil, it will make a huge improvement.
ok, so i've done a bit of tinkering with the front end of the TTR and found a reasonable solution to the DNM M200 forks...
Most people have found them to be on the stiff side, and little harsh, and tend to deflect over rough ground...
I measured the stock oil quantities in both legs, found there to be 225ml in the right leg, and 200mm in the left leg, i'm assuming of either 10 or 15w oil....
i've replaced it with 225ml of 5w oil in both legs, and so far the front end seems to be far more compliant, and adjustments in the clickers seem to have a more noticeable effect...
I'm taking it out tomorrow for a bit more testing, so i'll see if the oil height is ok, or whether it needs a bit of raising to keep bottoming resistance...
But for those TTR owners who want a more compliant front end, change the oil for 225ml of 5w oil, it will make a huge improvement.
user 11561
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- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
- Messages
- 343
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- 14
ok, so i've done a bit of tinkering with the front end of the TTR and found a reasonable solution to the DNM M200 forks...
Most people have found them to be on the stiff side, and little harsh, and tend to deflect over rough ground...
I measured the stock oil quantities in both legs, found there to be 225ml in the right leg, and 200mm in the left leg, i'm assuming of either 10 or 15w oil....
i've replaced it with 225ml of 5w oil in both legs, and so far the front end seems to be far more compliant, and adjustments in the clickers seem to have a more noticeable effect...
I'm taking it out tomorrow for a bit more testing, so i'll see if the oil height is ok, or whether it needs a bit of raising to keep bottoming resistance...
But for those TTR owners who want a more compliant front end, change the oil for 225ml of 5w oil, it will make a huge improvement.
How do you take the forks apart??
with a hammer...
-Nah, you undo the top triple clamp pinch bolts, grab a shifter and undo the top fork caps... the big ones with the rebound adjusters in them... undo them until you can spin them by hand...
-remove the front wheel, brake caliper, brake lines etc from the left fork...
-slide the forks out of the triples.
-Undo the fork caps entirely, until they are clear of the outer fork tubes.
-Compress the outer fork legs until they ''bottom'' out....
-Grab a clean rag, and pull the spring (white one, there are two... yellow and white...) down, until you can get a 9mm open ended spanner onto the damper rod. (long tube that joins the fork cap to the rest of the forks)
-Hold the 9mm spanner on the damper rod where it is machined "square" to take a spanner, and then using the shifter again, undo the fork cap from the damper rod.
-Using the rag again, pull down the spring and carefully remove the 9mm spanner from the damper rod. Go gently, otherwise the spring tension will shoot the spanner into your head, or into Dad's commodore....
-remove the springs from the damper rod, and set aside somewhere CLEAN....
-Grab a measuring jug, and push the damper rod down until it's flush with the top of the outer fork leg..
-Tip the fork upside down, and pump the damper rod in and out until all the fluid in the leg is drained out into the jug...
-write down how much oil came out of each leg....
-To refill the fork leg, it's best to use the measuring jug again, so you get an exact amount of fluid in the fork... i went with 225mm of 5w oil.... use a funnel if you have one small enough, and try to pour the fluid down the inside of the damper rod... saves a bit of time and mess if you can... once you have your new fluid in the fork, SLOWLY pump the damper rod up and down, still with the outer fork tube COMPRESSED.... eventually you will feel resistance both UP AND DOWN in the damper rod stroke... this is the oil circulating everywhere it should be...
REMEMBER!!! Pump slowly, or you will get shot in the face with suspension fluid, and it tastes like shite..
Now for the hard part...
-Grab the fork cap with inner damper rod still attached, and slide it into the outer damper rod... you will need this to try and hold the damper rod up so you can attach the fork cap to the damper rod....
-Using your clean rag again, try your best to compress the spring, and get that 9mm spanner back onto the damper rod. It's a bitch of a job, and will probably take you a few goes...
-once you manage to get the 9mm spanner on the damper rod again, tighten the fork cap onto the damper rod...
Ok, that's the hardest part done....
-Now screw the fork cap into the outer fork leg, this will require pulling the fork to full extension... do the fork cap up as tight as you can, then pump the forks up and down a bit by hand... if you wind the rebound adjuster all the way in and pump it, then wind it all the way out, you should feel a bit of difference in how fast the fork rebounds, or springs back.... it didnt do this standard....
-reinstall the fork back into the triple clamps, tighten the bottom clamps up tight, then using the shifter again, tighten the fork cap up tight... dont over do it though...
-Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts, then start on the other leg...
-Reinstall front wheel, tighten axle blah blah blah, and enjoy your new squishy forks, which now actually respond to clicker adjustments...
sorry, without pics or a vid, that's the best i can do, and i cant be buggered pulling them apart all over again to take pics..
-Nah, you undo the top triple clamp pinch bolts, grab a shifter and undo the top fork caps... the big ones with the rebound adjusters in them... undo them until you can spin them by hand...
-remove the front wheel, brake caliper, brake lines etc from the left fork...
-slide the forks out of the triples.
-Undo the fork caps entirely, until they are clear of the outer fork tubes.
-Compress the outer fork legs until they ''bottom'' out....
-Grab a clean rag, and pull the spring (white one, there are two... yellow and white...) down, until you can get a 9mm open ended spanner onto the damper rod. (long tube that joins the fork cap to the rest of the forks)
-Hold the 9mm spanner on the damper rod where it is machined "square" to take a spanner, and then using the shifter again, undo the fork cap from the damper rod.
-Using the rag again, pull down the spring and carefully remove the 9mm spanner from the damper rod. Go gently, otherwise the spring tension will shoot the spanner into your head, or into Dad's commodore....
-remove the springs from the damper rod, and set aside somewhere CLEAN....
-Grab a measuring jug, and push the damper rod down until it's flush with the top of the outer fork leg..
-Tip the fork upside down, and pump the damper rod in and out until all the fluid in the leg is drained out into the jug...
-write down how much oil came out of each leg....
-To refill the fork leg, it's best to use the measuring jug again, so you get an exact amount of fluid in the fork... i went with 225mm of 5w oil.... use a funnel if you have one small enough, and try to pour the fluid down the inside of the damper rod... saves a bit of time and mess if you can... once you have your new fluid in the fork, SLOWLY pump the damper rod up and down, still with the outer fork tube COMPRESSED.... eventually you will feel resistance both UP AND DOWN in the damper rod stroke... this is the oil circulating everywhere it should be...
REMEMBER!!! Pump slowly, or you will get shot in the face with suspension fluid, and it tastes like shite..
Now for the hard part...
-Grab the fork cap with inner damper rod still attached, and slide it into the outer damper rod... you will need this to try and hold the damper rod up so you can attach the fork cap to the damper rod....
-Using your clean rag again, try your best to compress the spring, and get that 9mm spanner back onto the damper rod. It's a bitch of a job, and will probably take you a few goes...
-once you manage to get the 9mm spanner on the damper rod again, tighten the fork cap onto the damper rod...
Ok, that's the hardest part done....
-Now screw the fork cap into the outer fork leg, this will require pulling the fork to full extension... do the fork cap up as tight as you can, then pump the forks up and down a bit by hand... if you wind the rebound adjuster all the way in and pump it, then wind it all the way out, you should feel a bit of difference in how fast the fork rebounds, or springs back.... it didnt do this standard....
-reinstall the fork back into the triple clamps, tighten the bottom clamps up tight, then using the shifter again, tighten the fork cap up tight... dont over do it though...
-Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts, then start on the other leg...
-Reinstall front wheel, tighten axle blah blah blah, and enjoy your new squishy forks, which now actually respond to clicker adjustments...
sorry, without pics or a vid, that's the best i can do, and i cant be buggered pulling them apart all over again to take pics..
taking it out for a proper thrash tomorrow, going to compare lap times with the MiniBlitz 155z as well... will get pics and vids...
That reminds me, need to charge the cam batteries...
coolmodee01
VCM B Grade 2013 Champion
dam thump there a pain in the ass
you dont have to take the dampener out of the westons you just pump them and the fluid drizzles out ever so slowly the only time you take the damper out is when doing fork seals the cheats way
and 225ml seems way to much oil you may find it hard still better but hard im a heavy sucker so i run 15w oil but only 205ml and for the lighter bloke that likes soft stuff (freestylers) 7.5w at 205ml
i'll make a note to show you the weston innards when i do fork seals next
you dont have to take the dampener out of the westons you just pump them and the fluid drizzles out ever so slowly the only time you take the damper out is when doing fork seals the cheats way
and 225ml seems way to much oil you may find it hard still better but hard im a heavy sucker so i run 15w oil but only 205ml and for the lighter bloke that likes soft stuff (freestylers) 7.5w at 205ml
i'll make a note to show you the weston innards when i do fork seals next
revmx_89
Well-Known Member
is there any videos of this bike i cant find any i just brought one so i would like to see one in action thanks guys
pbk
Well-Known Member
i got a vid or 2 of jake riding hes at cessnock but i dont think its the greatest video cos i was pretty far back
revmx_89
Well-Known Member
Jolinator
Active Member
anyone able to tell me the seat height? its not listed on their site
pbk
Well-Known Member
i would say its around 700mm
There are enough spare jets in the jetting kit to get it running right.would someone be able to tell me all the main and slow jet sizes that come in the spares? russ put a 175 in for me and need to know if i need to buy some or there are some the right size in the jetting spares
With the 175, try the 45 pilot jet, and the 105 main jet to begin with.
If you just bought one, you will probably see yours running soon enough...
seat height is around 820mm...
PBK what drugs are you on kid? 700??? it's a monster, not a CRF 50 style.. lol
pbk
Well-Known Member
lol crf50 is like 500... i took a stab in the dark with that lol like it was a pretty close guess
revmx_89
Well-Known Member
hey all on my rexmx will a TB 150 160 V2 Race Head and TB 184cc Big Bore Kit fit on my bike or will i be better off with z175 motor
