Atomik Reign, Lifan 150, Big Foot questions

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Okay I'll go to super cheap and see if they have any individual spanners
 
How would I go about turning up the idle?
Is it on the carb or is it simply turning the screw thats into the throttle grip?
 
the idle speed screw is the one that lines up with the centre of the carby ,
it usually has a flat head with a spring behind it.
 
Oh okay thanks, I thought that was the fuel air screw but thats where the fuel line meets the carb
 
Nope it just won't work anymore, It used to work after one or two presses but now not at all
 
check the connection where it plugs into the loom is all good, maybe spray some wd40 on the terminals ?
you could also try spraying some into the switch,
pull the rubber off the top and spray some wd40 inbetween the red button and the black housing and move the red button around.
might be a dirty contact there too ?
 
I'll try that tomorrow, Finally got a 9mm spanner but still couldn't use it to do the exhaust (Bashplate was in the way)
Anyway theres a lot of play in the intake now (Before it was rock solid)
Starts first kick and doesn't stall :)
Now to take it for a test ride

UPDATE: Everything feels 1000 times better (some is aught to be a placebo effect)
But I can definately feel the increase in power
It's great I can feel a massive increase in compression when kicking it over but it actually kicks over easier, Now even starts first kick and won't stall!

Now all I need to do is try and fix up this front brake and get the kill switch working again (I think washing it may have made it stop working)


In regards to brake calipers, The rear brake caliper is loose and I can wobble it with my hand, But unlike mountain bike calipers I can't see and bolts holding it on (One is covered by a soft rubber 'cap' and the other looks to be a hard plastic or just metal... How do I tighten/loosen the two caliper bolts?

Also I recall when bleeding the front brake I think I accidently pulled it in once when there was no fluid in the resevoir, I presumed that it had been bled out because I bled out a lot of bubbles and just solid fluid (And when I closed up the bleed screw I had heaps of pressure), Is it possible there is still air in the system even though the brakes have a lot of pressure?
 
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Front brake is working a bit better now, To the point I am happy with it.

I sprayed some stuff on on the kill switch and in all the wiring but it doesn't seem to have done the stuff (It was pretty much WD-40 but cheaper stuff
 
you could try taking the switch off and apart ?
then clean up the contacts
 
So today I thought I would tackle that shaking in the engine when it's revving really low. (Now I actually think it's kind of normal, I'm not to sure)
I took off the carby and took out all of the jets and cleaned them with brake cleaner, Put it back on and then I adjusted my valves, again.


I adjusted the intake to 0.003 and the exhaust to around 0.004 (I think, The exhaust is hard to get too)


Now, for some reason when I shift down when I slow down, every now and then it backfires. It's very quiet and doesn't shake the bike at all i'm just not sure what caused it. Also now it sometimes stalls when starting on cold (the first time I adjusted the valves this fixed it)


Also, I took off the timing chain cover and also the flywheel cover and when the timing sprocket is at 9'oclock (where tdc is) The TDC on the flywheel is not 100% at 12o'clock

Is it supposed to be?
 
Mattwilkinson said:
So today I thought I would tackle that shaking in the engine when it's revving really low. (Now I actually think it's kind of normal, I'm not to sure)
I took off the carby and took out all of the jets and cleaned them with brake cleaner, Put it back on and then I adjusted my valves, again.


I adjusted the intake to 0.003 and the exhaust to around 0.004 (I think, The exhaust is hard to get too)


Now, for some reason when I shift down when I slow down, every now and then it backfires. It's very quiet and doesn't shake the bike at all i'm just not sure what caused it. Also now it sometimes stalls when starting on cold (the first time I adjusted the valves this fixed it)


Also, I took off the timing chain cover and also the flywheel cover and when the timing sprocket is at 9'oclock (where tdc is) The TDC on the flywheel is not 100% at 12o'clock

Is it supposed to be?
Click to expand...
The timing is only as close as the link on the cam chain you can get it..

The popping wass normal on my bike depends on your jetting etc just leave it and sometime think about replacing your valves after a top end with some stainless steel ones (my 150's ones looked like mushrooms after many hours)
 
have you readjusted the carby since doing the valves ?

check your exhaust nuts under the head are tight too, a small air leak there and it will pop in the exhaust
 
Haven't re-adjusted the carby... How do I adjust the fuel/air on the mikuni carb?
I have a feeling it's running a bit rich as the spark plug was pretty fouled and I can smell it when I stop...

Is there another way to tell rich vs. lean without having it pegged for 30 seconds or so as I live in a built up neighbourhood



I checked the exhaust nuts up a week or so ago and they were quite tight, It was either cleaning the carb or adjusting the valves that had caused it
 
nah, you cant do a plug chop to check how it's running if you can't hold it pinned in 3rd or 4th gear.
the spark plug needs to get to its' self cleaning temperature before you can read the colour off the porcelain.


the mixture screw is under the carby at the front, the brass flat head screw head is in the little tube/tower

 
Damn, So I have to take the carby off just do adjust it? I thought you needed to put it on a high idle and then turn the air/fuel outwards until the revs stop increasing...
 
yeah that's it, but the China Mikuni's are the hardest to adjust.
 
Okay, Will taking the whole think off be easier than turning off the fuel and taking the bowl off, leaving it on the bike?
 
Also will turning it anti clockwise (unscrewing it) make it run leaner or richer?
 
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