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the step up driver i mentioned in the post above yours is a little electronic circuit,
it uses the 12v output from your reg/rect (red and green wires) on the input side, and converts it to 30 volts.
the 2x wires on the output side of the driver then go directly to the led which would be mounted inside the headlight lense.
so no, it wont need a battery
 
???????????????

sorry, am i holding you up or something ?

i thought your were buying the Halogen bulb and trying that out?



i have emailed a UK seller about the high powered LEDs, and a suitable Projector Lenses for them,
i am still waiting on a reply from him

for me to source the parts, order them, receive, and make up something suitable isn't going to happen in a day or so.
 
???????????????

sorry, am i holding you up or something ?

i thought your were buying the Halogen bulb and trying that out?



i have emailed a UK seller about the high powered LEDs, and a suitable Projector Lenses for them,
i am still waiting on a reply from him

for me to source the parts, order them, receive, and make up something suitable isn't going to happen in a day or so.
sorry for being pushy man as i want to get this finished
i'll try and the the bulb tonight
 
i'm suprised the 25/25w BA20D isn't bright enough for you.
it is what most standard bikes ran from the 1970's to the 90's, and some still do.
i have a 25/25w on my Yamaha IT200, it is pretty good as it is


you might be able to get a 12v 35/35w BA20D incandescant bulb from a local supplier too, that Kawasaki dealer you got the brake switch from would most likely have them, they are around $8ea
the incandescant bulbs don't radiate as much heat as a Halogen bulb,
so you'd be less likely to melt the headlight lense.
 
so does it get any brighter at a certain rev ?
the lighting coils are wound so they put out the most power at the rpm the bike is most likely to sit on.
so being a scooter type motor im guessing somewhere between 2500-4000rpm
then the power will taper off above and below that.

running a battery of capacitor would help,
but if it was left idling most of the time with the lights on, eventually the battery would go flat.
 
so from what you are saying, you'd be better off using a candle/AA torch strapped to the handlebars ?


the other option is a Capacitor then,
fitting one to your system, may be enough extra load to trigger the rec/rect to bump up the output a bit ?

they are small (close on a D cell battery), and are less than 1/4 of the the batterys' weight, and cheap enough too.
wire the negative (striped side, to the reg/rects' earth wire, and the positive side to the Red output wire from the reg/rect, along with the currently fitted wires.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RU6720
 
lol that my friend would not pass road worthy
and i had a thourght why the headlight is dimm ,it may be the earth , i did not scrape that area to bare metal and i also used a pop rivet but i drillred the hole out to big to use a screw to any suggestions on that?
 
so are you going to try adding a Capacitor to your system, to see if it gets the regulator working correctly?
 
probably not
im stumped i really am
but what i really need to do is see if this horn is a dud
i pulled the connecters off it and pressed a 9v d cell battery nope nothing even when i changed the + an the -
still nothing should i try a 6v horn?
 
9v probably not enough power to run a 12v horn
try testing it with some jumper leads from a car battery.
 
with a car's alternator,
the charging circuit needs to be 'excited' by some external power, to get the 13.8 volts of power flowing out of it.
the regulator/rectifier needs basically the same thing.
i can have a play around with my bike when i get it home, but not for a couple of weeks
 

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